Annealing? How do YOU do it? How often?

[Mike D Texas]

So for those of you that are using home brew annealers or even flame annealers, how do you know they are annealing to the right time/temp? I mean I've heard all of the heat it until it glows theories but who knows how accurate and consistent that is?

At least with the AMP there seems to be a measurable?

I understand everyone can't afford or just doesn't want to pay for an AMP, but the other methods seems to be a guess at best.

 

[Rick Richard]

So for those of you that are using home brew annealers or even flame annealers, how do you know they are annealing to the right time/temp? I mean I've heard all of the heat it until it glows theories but who knows how accurate and consistent that is?

At least with the AMP there seems to be a measurable?

I understand everyone can't afford or just doesn't want to pay for an AMP, but the other methods seems to be a guess at best.

And what evidence is there that a wide band of temperatures is not sufficient provided the batch of annealed brass is done with the same temp or flame setting? I can't tell and my groups and brass life can't either. Just saying.

 

[JAYgs8163]

It's actually very consistent as each piece travels through the machine for the same time period. I've used the Tempilaq method also for reviewing and setting the heat and I find the glow method is very accurate soon as you have it dialed in. It's definitely consistent though for sure.

 

[Mike D Texas]

It's actually very consistent as each piece travels through the machine for the same time period. I've used the Tempilaq method also for reviewing and setting the heat and I find the glow method is very accurate soon as you have it dialed in. It's definitely consistent though for sure.

I understand it's consistent but is it accurate? It seems to be a very limied set of parameters for it to be done correctly based on what I've read.

 

[VenatusDominus]

I understand it's consistent but is it accurate? It seems to be a very limied set of parameters for it to be done correctly based on what I've read.

The time/temperature plot for annealing cartridge brass is an "S"curve, with the front and back ends being essentially flat. It is far better to "over do" than "under do" as under doing places you on the middle of the "S" curve where a small difference in time/temp can have huge swings in the amount of anneal/stress relief, or on the flat front end of the "S" curve where even large changes produce essentially no changes in the brass. If you over do, you are on the flat back end of the "S" curve where even relatively large temp or time changes make very little difference in amount of anneal/stress relief. You just don't want to "over do" the point of melting the brass. This is precisely what the AMP annealer does in Aztec mode, it melts a case neck to figure out how much energy is required (there is a distinct change in input energy when the brass changes from solid to liquid) and then backs off the energy slightly to define the proper anneal setting. There is and Eric Cortina video illustrating no significant difference in measured neck tension between flame annealed brass at 10,15 and 20 seconds.

If you read the scientific study from post #51 in this tread, even at 1300F for 30 minutes, the brass was not over annealed. We know that brass generally begins to (in the dark) glow red around 1050F. There are charts showing the color of glow and approximate temp. If you get the neck/shoulder to glow cherry red in ambient light for a second or two, then you are definitely getting on the flat side of the curve. The flame sensor I use is very sensitive and can be adjusted for desired amount of glow before it stops the annealing process.

 

[JAYgs8163]

I understand it's consistent but is it accurate? It seems to be a very limied set of parameters for it to be done correctly based on what I've read.

Well I've read a lot also but from my experiences it does an excellent job. My PRC's, 308, WSMs all shoot exceptionally well and brass life is great! I'm on 9 reloads of SigSauer 308 brass and still going strong. Shooting little bug hole groups. Anyways, I'm very satisfied with my results.

 

[SSgt G Cody]

I anneal my fired cases every 6 months, then prep, clean, re-size, and load. Essentially, I anneal after each firing. I use a powered screwdriver, socket w/extension, torch, and bucket of luke-warm water. Works great for me. My factory annealer konked-out on me years ago.

 

[Taylorbok]

@Mike D Texas Everyone I talked to seem to say the begins to glow is sufficient including lots of people who tested way more than I have time to. And it didn't negatively affect my results so I carry on.

 

[BrentM]

Care to share how you built the induction annealer? Or at least some pics?

 

[Teri Anne]

so like your running a very hot load if that's all the firing you are getting. But that would only be my guess. I find that annealing really benefits in getting better sd/es and brass life.

I seldom ever run real hot loads. I have found that for the most part you get the best accuracy from loads below the max listed in the loading manuals. High velocity has a tendency due to the hot powder charges to lessen the life of barrels and in my experience seldom results in less than MOA groups. I tried annealing but found out that it didn't help much of anything as far as accuracy went so simply quit doing it. I feel that I get adequate case life with what I am doing so why spend the money and time to do something that shows me little return? I guess this comes under the category of, "To each their own."