Annealeez annealer?

[cm1021]

I've been playing with mine a little bit but haven't gotten confident enough to run a full batch through it.

I've watched a ton of videos that say you need to destroy a piece just to know what that does. Then set it up by using it in a dark room and watching for color change. Like you said, I've heard tempilaq can discolor due to flame, where there on the outside of the case or the inside.

The only tempilaq I can really see being useful is the 400 painted down on the case to make sure heat hasn't traveled that far down.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Don't worry about hijacking because I have watched a ton of videos on it and wasn't sure if i was going to use tempilaq or not. Can the paint have direct flame contact?

It can, but it burns it to the case….it makes it harder to get off.

I've watched a ton of videos that say you need to destroy a piece just to know what that does.

I never had to do that. Too cold, the 750 Tempilaq doesn't change to clear. Too hot and you get orange flares off the tip of the neck. Heating too fast…blue heat line is too high on the case. Look at a Lapua brass for perfect or a military brass for good enough.

 

[cm1021]

It can, but it burns it to the case….it makes it harder to get off.

I never had to do that. Too cold, the 750 Tempilaq doesn't change to clear. Too hot and you get orange flares off the tip of the neck. Heating too fast…blue heat line is too high on the case. Look at a Lapua brass for perfect or a military brass for good enough.

Well I meant like messing one up by letting it go until you get the orange flames, then adjusting the time a bit to where it doesn't.

 

[vancewalker007]

Not to hijack the thread or anything, but how is everyone setting theirs up? Is tempilaq a must.

It makes setup a lot quicker and more precise, not that annealing is a super precise process. I've used it for years and my father has used it for years and always got good results, ie. bullet seating turns out very consistent case to case, which is basically the point of this whole process. It cleans off with carbon remover very easy.

 

[Shawnsts]

Just recieved a shipping confirmation email this morning.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Just recieved a shipping confirmation email this morning.

Hope you got all the wheel sizes. I ended up needing them all!

 

[Shawnsts]

It comes with a medium and I also purchased a large. From what it seems there are only 3 sizes.

 

[cm1021]

It comes with a medium and I also purchased a large. From what it seems there are only 3 sizes.

There are only 3. The small ones are for 300 blk and other short cases. I may end up getting the small.for 223

 

[vancewalker007]

It comes with a medium and I also purchased a large. From what it seems there are only 3 sizes.

If you have a a short mag like the 6.5 PRC you will need the WSSM (super short mag) wheel set.

 

[Kmccord]

I have a 6.5 Creed, 28 Nosler, 7mm Rem Mag, 270 Win I would think the standard wheels that come with it will work and the large for the 28 N and 7mm Rem Mag. Probably need the small for the 223 or 6.5 Grendel.

 

[Kmccord]

I plan to order one in a week or so

 

[Scythe]

I liked mine when running smaller cases but when I started running the 7 SAUM it wasn't turning the cases and I did have the larger wheel set. Then I started thinking it was time to get the AMP annealer.

A search of the web turned up some people using 220 grit paper on the bottom wheel. I thought that was coarse so I went with 600 and it works.
The original blue rubber like substance was removed and Loctite Flexible Adhesive for Vinyl, Plastic and Fabric is holding the paper in place.
I ran a few test cases first then 15 cases from my 338 SS and 20 from my 7 SAUM with zero issues or scoring marks on the brass from the paper.

Now I like it again. Money saved to spend on powder or another ???

 

[Shawnsts]

I liked mine when running smaller cases but when I started running the 7 SAUM it wasn't turning the cases and I did have the larger wheel set. Then I started thinking it was time to get the AMP annealer.

A search of the web turned up some people using 220 grit paper on the bottom wheel. I thought that was coarse so I went with 600 and it works.
The original blue rubber like substance was removed and Loctite Flexible Adhesive for Vinyl, Plastic and Fabric is holding the paper in place.
I ran a few test cases first then 15 cases from my 338 SS and 20 from my 7 SAUM with zero issues or scoring marks on the brass from the paper.

Now I like it again. Money saved to spend on powder or another ???

That's good to know because I will be doing 7saum as well, with other 30cal and .338 cases. The loctite doesn't melt or get too hot from the torch? You should post a picture of your modified wheel.

 

[vancewalker007]

I liked mine when running smaller cases but when I started running the 7 SAUM it wasn't turning the cases and I did have the larger wheel set. Then I started thinking it was time to get the AMP annealer.

A search of the web turned up some people using 220 grit paper on the bottom wheel. I thought that was coarse so I went with 600 and it works.
The original blue rubber like substance was removed and Loctite Flexible Adhesive for Vinyl, Plastic and Fabric is holding the paper in place.
I ran a few test cases first then 15 cases from my 338 SS and 20 from my 7 SAUM with zero issues or scoring marks on the brass from the paper.

Now I like it again. Money saved to spend on powder or another ???

Were you using their WSSM wheel set for your SAUM? I had to use them for my 6.5 PRC. It works great for me.