Advice on backpack hunt gear list

[Tim in Washington]

Jmden and Bowhunter42,Thanks for both of your input. i got burned with a pair of Kenetreks a couple of years ago I know I've got to decide on something quickley ,so I'm just trying to go through my options.
Tim

 

[jmden]

Jmden and Bowhunter42,Thanks for both of your input. i got burned with a pair of Kenetreks a couple of years ago I know I've got to decide on something quickley ,so I'm just trying to go through my options.
Tim

I think the Lows, due to their sole design/construction, would potentially be better off trail in steeper, more technical terrain. They are made more like a mountaineering boot as that is Lowa's roots. I've got a pair of Lowas plastic mountaineering boots for technical snow/ice climbing that are a great boot. But back to the 'more like a mountaineering boot' comment... You'll see that the Danner Raptors use a stitch down construction to attach the upper to the lower (sole) on the boot. Yes, this can be rebuilt, but it also necessarily results in a wider foot print, with the edge of the sole 'unsupported', in a sense, that is, without your foot directly above the edge of the sole, as is the case in the Lowas and other similar designs. In the Danner, this creates a bit of a lever arm working against you if you are doing some steep side-hilling or on more technical terrain where it becomes important to put the very edge of your boot somewhere and have it stay there.

The Lowa will do this much better than the Danner. I'm probably totally butchering this description, but if you have tried a few differnent types of boots in techinical terrain, this feature stands out quickly. There's a reason that rock shoes (rock climbing shoes--I've gone through several pair) have a very tight fitting design with the edge of the sole very will supported by your foot--so you can fit that sole on the tinniest of ledges/hold on the rock and get a good purchase and put a substantial amount of your weight on a 1/8" (not a misprint) or less wide ledge. You wouldn't have a chance of doing that with the Danner's but the Lowas, you would have amuch better chance. So steep, rocky (and snowy) off trail work would probaably go better in the Lowas for that reason, but...

What I don't know about the Lowa's bowhunter mentions is the stiffness of the boot...basically, what length and material is used for the shank. If they are a really stiff boot, like the Kenetreks, which are designed to accept 'step-in' crampons, then the Danner's will wind hands down for just basic ease of walking on trails. A very stiff boot is not that much fun compared to a relatively less stiff boot for trail work and, say, up to about 20 deg slopes. In slopes about that and steeper than that, n general, depending on the type of terrain, the stiffer boot will start to shine as it will 'edge' better, espcecially in softer terrain like summer/fall snow slopes.

If you come from a mountaineering background with a fair amount of experience there, these things are considered routinely in the boot selection for kind the climb you are going on (I'm not sure how many pairs of mountaineering boots I own...) knowing full well that, like everything, every boot design is a compromise and no perfect do all boot exists. I'm not sure how much the 'average hunter' (whatever that means...) considers this stuff as I don't know alot of hunters and this type of discussion on the nuances of boot construction hasn't come up. Hope I didn't just make things more confusing.

 

[Tim in Washington]

All good points. I never thought about the width of the footprint. I just like the ability to rebuild because otherwise once I find something I like,it wears out than I have to go through the entire search and breakin process again without knowing the final result until the cash is spent
Tim

 

[mnoland30]

I like paper towel toilet paper. I cut a roll in half with an electric knife (don't tell my wife). I used to be sort of anal about the amount of paper I carried and counted out how much I'd need. A bout with some bug that infected everyone in camp except me, convinced me that there are times when a roll of toilet paper is worth $1 a sheet. We all were short of paper by the end of that trip.

My first hike in the Grand Canyon everyone took heavy boots and tennis shoes. I had light boots, and I was the only one not wearing tennis shoes on the hike out. Now I hike in tennis shoes. Read Ray Jardin's "Beyond Backpacking" for some great ideas about ultra light packing. My last trip down the Canyon my buddy hiked out with a 10 lb. pack. You can't pack that light to hunt, but you can sure cut some lbs. without affecting comfort or survival.

If you don't roll around too much, you can use the 3/8" blue foam as pad and ground cloth. I tried that on my last winter trip, and it worked well. I've used the thin foil space blankets for ground cloth, 4 mil plastic, silicon sail cloth, and nylon, and most are noisy, slippery and add weight. The space blanket didn't last the week, but works for an overnight or weekend. The blue foam is only 8 ounces. For around 20 ounces, you could carry a full length Thermarest.

 

[Daves762]

There is several good replies so far and I wont repeat what others have said better.

Last year I went 6 hours into the Sierra's at 9k and it was my first overnighter as well. I took waaaay too much gear. In the planning stage It all made sense but I hardly used most of it.

As an EMT call me paranoid but I took so much medical gear with me I would have ran triage for hours. Best plan for this years hunt is enough Medical gear to stabalize my hunt buddy and then go for help fast. Just my opinion for this trip.

I took a small MSR manifold and a couple cans of fuel to boil water, water filter to refill containers, and mountain house food. that aspect worked perfect.

One cheapy tent that worked perfect and was actually tied up in a tree when I left planning on returning this year to use it. Dumb idea since I cant count on it being there or being in sevicable condition so I have to bring a tent this year anyways. Lesson learned.

My point is that I felt confident, safe, and well supplied while I was there. We shot a giant buck and came home safe and satisfied. I will take less gear this year as my confidence is higher than last year.

Bring what you feel you need.

Also the one thing I didn't bring but really should have is the small flask of whiskey and victory cigars ( or whatever your pleasure) for after the kill.
This will be the only addition to my gear list this year, and alot of last years gear will be left behind.

Let me know how it goes!!!

ps my WV buddy literally sleeps in his bag on the ground, no tent, no gear, just rifle, bag, food, and water. Sounds pretty hard core but I've seen him do it. Just saying if you don't bring that ONE thing........it's not all that bad just comforts

 

[bowhunter42]

The one thing I always pack in for my comfort food is Jiffy pop popcorn that I always pop the night before the season starts. it is my good luck ritual. With my older stove it was no problem popping it with out a camp fire, But since making the change to a Jet boil i now have to make a small camp fire. I know, its silly but I could'nt think of starting my hunt with out my popcorn! LOL

 

[mnoland30]

You guys should read Ray Jardin's Beyond Backpacking. It changed the way I pack. I can spend the night out in a spike camp by carrying 6 extra pounds. A silicone nylon tent (13 oz), a poly sleeping bag (3 lbs), a 5 ounce sleeping pad, 5 oz. ground cloth, UV Light water purifier (6 oz), and some extra food You have to take a little care where you set up (looking for pine duff or leaves for padding), but it is perfectly comfortable.

I carry a personal locator beacon when I hunt by myself, so I figure I don't need much first aid stuff. Stop the bleeding should do it.

 

[High Country]

Lots of good info on here, and perhaps I missed this, but.. Merino wool over the poly pro stuff.. Switched a few years back and wish all my clothes were made of that stuff... : )

I live in AK and chase sheep.. I'm not an expert backpacker, but have learned to keep things light and useful.

Take your stuff and put it in a Excel Spreadsheet. Get a scale, weigh everything. Make a column for ozs and add it up. You'll start finding stuff you don't need in a hurry.. : )

Here is my current line up of clothes
KUIU Attack Pants
Smartwool Mid Weight 3/4 Top and Bottoms
IBEX Merino Wool T-Shirt (2)
REI Thinsulate Vest
Montbell Parka (vest and parka are an either or)
Patagonia Spraymaster Special Rain Pants
KUIU Chugach Jacket
Patagonia Micropuff MARs Pants (only take when its cold)
Smartwool Mountaineering Socks (# of pairs depends on how long I am out)
Cabela's Alaskan Meindls (I might want a 800gr insulate boot for October hunts though???) This boot is my dream boot for hunting in AK (May / Aug / Sept).
KUIU Merino Wool Beanie and Neck Gaiter
Cabelas Fleece Watch Cap (thick for colder hunts)
OR Crocodile Gaiters

+1 on the Paper Towells. Cutting a roll in 1/2 is a great idea. I usually take 2-3 towells (folded in a ziplock) per day I am supposed to be out.

Light Weight Knives
Havalon Pirana
Buck PackLite Skinner


I need to look into the Kifaru Tipi Stove combo and get after some high country mulies one of these Octobers.... Just hard to find the time and a willing partner all in the same week! : )

Best of luck!

 

[jmden]

Comfort and Moisture Transport in Lightweight Wool and Synthetic Base Layers @ Backpacking Light

Wool and synthetic base layer testing...

 

[High Country]

Comfort and Moisture Transport in Lightweight Wool and Synthetic Base Layers @ Backpacking Light

Wool and synthetic base layer testing...

Nice link. I think for summer backpacking I might consider the poly pro, but for what I do up here in AK and what I hope to do in out West (October hunts) I think Merino Wool is the way to go. That Poly Pro stuff doesn't last as long either. The smell eventally gets to me. The Merino Wool stuff is a different story.

 

[tt35]

Either poly or merino is light years above cotton blends when you're exerting yourself or there's potential precip. I'm still testing my merino tops but this is what I've found so far.

Two days elk hunting in merino=less stink than one day elk hunting in poly.

The bottoms don't seem to matter as much and I can do multiple days in poly but for tops, it's night and day for me. YMMV. I've used the Smartwool zip-T and I've got a new KUIU 185 I'll add to my kit this year.

 

[veriest1]

I don't have time to finish reading thwhole thread on my phone but would like to offer up a few thoughts anyway since hunting season is right around the corner.

Consider a golite or mountainlaurel designs shelter to save a bit of money. They might be lighter too. I love my Trailstar.

Gossamer gear sells great ground cloths/floors but you can get the same stuff at home depot and cut it yourself. Alternatively since your shelter isn't fully enclosed consider a water resistant bivy to put you bag in. THe floor will be water proof and bathtub like to keep you bag dry in howling rain (even though it's under the tent). It can cut condensation issues in a single wall tent too. I use the titanium goat one for my backpacking.

Titanium goat for the wood stove. Or search for the make your own gear version. Some have been built using snow peak plates for the ends and various metals forthe center section. Cool stuff.

As far as sleeping bags the one you list doesn't look to bad. Down isnt as hard to care for as people make it out to be and it lasts forever compared to synthetics so if you're serious about this stuff consider investing in an 800 fill bag. Big Agnes makes some pretty nice 650 fill bags for the money though. Alternatively consider sleeping quilts. They can be layered over a winter bag or used by themselves for 3 season use.

Be prepared to wear all your clothes to bed if you need more warmth or the temp rating isn't true (generally only an issue on cheaper bags). Your best off giving it a backyard test or two. You'll be fine with no hood. Just pack a fleece balaclava and maybe wear a hat or your jackets hood over that if you need to.

Sleeping pads are for more than just comfort they provide the majority of the insulation between you and the ground. I prefer an Neoair down to about 25 degrees. If I expect lower then I add a Thermarest Ridgerest to it. The new "solar" models would be really good for this purpose.

3 knives? Do you really need a folder other than the multitool? I prefer the Esee knives but the SOG should be fine. I just have no personal experience with them
myself.

Merino wool. 'nuff said. I/O Bio brand is just as good as Smartwool and the like.

I'd carry less ammo. Maybe 10 or 12 rounds.

 

[Jake Levi]

Good list, if you are comfortable with it go with it, how did your check out trip go?

I would take more food, forget the fishing gear.

You might be more comfortable wearing a Balaclava then the Baclava.

I am a wool believer, and layering it.

Any updates??

 

[jamesmc2]

Go as light as possible. Avoid Cabela's, Coleman brands etc. OK quality but very heavy and bulky compared to other brands out there from better outdoor companies. With current lightweight backpacking gear you can carry a pack that weighs less than 30-35lbs that will have you covered for 5 days (not including your rifle). I have included only what you would be carrying and not what you are wearing... boots etc. Some of the weights are specific, but many are estimates. I have weighed by pack loaded exactly as below minus food and water and it comes in right around 25lbs. Remember this assumes that you are going solo. You can lighten-up a bit if hunting with a partner.

Pack: Internal frame with at least 70L capacity (go with a good suspension because when you add in 50lbs of meat you want to be able to carry a 75lb pack with some degree of comfort)
Good Brands: Gregory, Osprey, Mountain Hardwear, Lowe Alpine
My Choice: Gregory Baltoro 75 - 5lbs 14oz

Tent: Tarp Style
Good Brands: Black Diamond, Marmot, Sierra Designs, Go-Lite
My Choice: Black Diamond Beta Light - 1lb 8oz + 8oz ground sheet

Sleeping Bag: Go with down for light weight and compressibility (compacts much smaller than synthetic bags)
Good Brands: Sierra Designs, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Montbell
My Choice: Sierra Designs Vapor 15 degree - 1lb 12oz

Sleeping Pad: Inflatable Type
Good Brands: Therma-Rest, Big Agnes, Insul Mat
My Choice: Big Agnes Insulated Air Core - 1lb 8oz

Cooking Gear: Light Isobutane Stove and Single Pot
Good Brands: MSR, Primus, Jet Boil, Snow Peak
My Choice: MSR Pocket Rocket - 3oz, Single Pot - 4oz, Isobutane Canister 8oz, Spork 1oz

Water Purifier: Pump or gravity style
Good Brands: Katadyn, MSR, First Need
My Choice: Katadyn Base Camp 11oz

Clothing: Good layering system
Good Brands: Patagonia, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Sierra Designs, Mammut, Lowe Alpine, North Face, Smart Wool, Columbia)

Waterproof Shell Jacket and Pants- 2lb
Midweight Fleece Jacket - 1lb
Down Jacket (adds warmth to sleeping bag or while glassing) - 1lb
Baselayer Top and Bottom - 1lb
Extra Socks - 4oz
Gloves - 8oz
Hat - 4oz
Gaiters (will keep your pants dry in snow or morning dew) - 8oz

Accessories:
Headlamp: Princeton Tec, Petzl - 3oz
First Aid Kit - 8oz
Toiletries - 8oz
Misc - Batteries, Maps, Compass 1lb

Hunting Gear:
Knife and Light Saw - 1lb
Spotting Scope - 1lb
Binoculars - 1lb
Lightweight Rangefinder - 8oz
Cord/Game Bags/Plastic Storage Bags - 1lb

Total Weight = 26lbs

With food and water you can squeeze in at right around 35lbs, especially if you can refill your water frequently. Obviously your exact weight will vary depending on your gear choices. With the above set up I am pretty comfortable through the first week in October up to about 10,000ft. Weather where I hunt typically is around 10-20 degrees at night and 40-60 degrees during the day. The down jacket is essential for glassing, preparing meals, or anytime you are standing still for extended periods of time. It also adds warmth if worn inside you sleeping bag at night. Gaiters can be a lifesaver for keeping your pants dry when there is dew/rain on the grass/brush. They will also keep you and your boots dry when walking in snow. I also carry trekking poles which help a lot when climbing steep terrain or carrying heavy loads. They are used to pitch my tarp and can double as shooting sticks. I am in process of writing an article on lightweight outdoor gear suited for backpack hunting.

NEVER pay full price if possible. There are some great websites that will save you at TON of $$$. Here are a few of my favorites. Shop when they have sales or sign up for their mailing lists and you can often save additional money.

Sierra Trading Post - Great Deals. Great Brands.

Camping Gear & Outdoor Gear - Outerwear & Outdoor Clothing from Campmor.com

MountainGear.com; Outdoor gear and clothing for climbing, hiking, skiing, camping & backpacking.

DepartmentOfGoods.com: Discounted Outdoor Gear, Skiing, Snowboarding and Hiking Gear from The North Face, Patagonia and Oakley.

REI-OUTLET.com: Deals, Discounts & Bargains on Outdoor Gear, Clothing and Equipment for Camping, Cycling, Fitness and More

Best of luck, hit me up with any questions - James