Ackley Improved Education

Mark, as reference you can normally run a max or close to max load from the parent cartridge data, in an improved chamber, when fire forming.

I never do more than I have to when forming to warm the pockets up before real pressure on round 2 or possibly 3.
Sharp crisp angles at the top and bottom of the shoulder are the goal, but there is no sin in the process taking 2 firings to get there.

Blow out loads can blow your mind concerning precision, trust me.
In my .270 AI, I found an accuracy load for .270 Win and .270 AI.
 
Starline lists it, can't recall actually finding any for sale. Is it really .375 Win brass or just .30-30 brass with a different head stamp?
NOS Win brass goes for a small fortune on GB and the like.

It's been my experience that Starline makes pretty good brass but I have never actually sectioned a case to see if there is a difference.
I don't push pressures in anything I shoot, if I think I need more performance I simply go to a larger case, it's easier on the gun and the brass both.

I use a fair number of "improved" cases, and one thing I can never wrap my head around is people who use "I don't want to waste time fireforming" as an excuse.
I would agree if you use the COW method or some other non-actual-shooting method, but if you are doing that, why? Load up some ammo, and shoot it.

In my experience, you need to put 100-200 rounds down a barrel anyway to get it smoothed out to where it isn't going to speed up anymore. You also need get your scope zeroed, and to get familiar with the new platform. That is when I am fireforming. Then I have 100-200 pieces of fireformed brass that I can start serious load development with.

In regards to brass life, I am on load number 18 on my current batch of 7TCU brass for my Remington bolt gun, and load number 16 on my 7TCU brass for my Encore handgun. My 7-08AI with Lapua brass is on load number 6, the rest (6TCU, 6.5-06AI, 338 Sherman Mega, 30-30AI, 7BRM, and 280AI) are all in the 3-5 firings range.

I'm with you 100%! I shoot hundreds of shots at paper/steel for every one I shoot at game as I expect most of the folks on this forum do. I have never viewed fireforming as a chore but simply good practice. I like to shoot my guns and try to do so as much as possible whether fireforming or working up loads for a hunt.
 
I run a 35 Whelen AI for deer in Iowa. That gun has turned out to be an absolute beast. I get 4k ft-lb energy out of it and the recoil isn't too bad (when managed).

35 whelen factory ammo goes in, fully formed cases come out. No sweat. I do wish there was better 35 Whelen brass on the market, but I knew it would be that way when I built it.

Redding dies were definitely more costly than I wanted, but they are a great company to work with so I'm not complaining. I destroyed a decapping/expander ball stud and they replaced it for free, despite telling them it was 100% my own fault.

I can't compare the standard 35 Whelen to the AI version, I've never shot or reloaded for the standard, but the AI definitely has some huevos.
 
I run a 35 Whelen AI for deer in Iowa. That gun has turned out to be an absolute beast. I get 4k ft-lb energy out of it and the recoil isn't too bad (when managed).

35 whelen factory ammo goes in, fully formed cases come out. No sweat. I do wish there was better 35 Whelen brass on the market, but I knew it would be that way when I built it.

Redding dies were definitely more costly than I wanted, but they are a great company to work with so I'm not complaining. I destroyed a decapping/expander ball stud and they replaced it for free, despite telling them it was 100% my own fault.

I can't compare the standard 35 Whelen to the AI version, I've never shot or reloaded for the standard, but the AI definitely has some huevos.

I am in the process of building a 35 Whelen and thinking about standard versus AI. Is it possible to buy 35 Whelen brass and run it through the Redding 35 Whelen Improved sizing die to create the AI brass? Or is the better route to buy the brass load it and fire it to get the formed brass?
 
I am in the process of building a 35 Whelen and thinking about standard versus AI. Is it possible to buy 35 Whelen brass and run it through the Redding 35 Whelen Improved sizing die to create the AI brass? Or is the better route to buy the brass load it and fire it to get the formed brass?
No. You have to shoot the brass and push the shoulder out.
 
I am in the process of building a 35 Whelen and thinking about standard versus AI. Is it possible to buy 35 Whelen brass and run it through the Redding 35 Whelen Improved sizing die to create the AI brass? Or is the better route to buy the brass load it and fire it to get the formed brass?

I'm pretty sure the case must be fired in the larger AI chamber for the conversion! Buuuut, I've been wrong before! memtb
 
I am in the process of building a 35 Whelen and thinking about standard versus AI. Is it possible to buy 35 Whelen brass and run it through the Redding 35 Whelen Improved sizing die to create the AI brass? Or is the better route to buy the brass load it and fire it to get the formed brass?
Fire forming is a great way to break in your new barrel, so it's not wasted effort.
 
Fire forming is a great way to break in your new barrel, so it's not wasted effort.
No, buy your factory ammo and fire form it to the AI dimensions. Good shooting practice! Actually, most standard cartridges shoot well from an AI chambering. I used to hunt with the 280 Rem factory cartridges - they shot MOA from my 280AI. My velocity improvement was less than expected due to my short 21" bbl. Doing somewhat better with the newer powders. Always consider barrel length. You can shorten them but not lengthen them!
 
Some gun manufacturers are now building rifles for 280AI - that tells us much about its popularity. Nosler is selling 280AI cartridges as well!
 
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