8mm Thread

[Varberger757]

What if I told you guys that there is a very good possibility for a high bc 220- 230 gr tipped 8mm bullet !
How many would be interested in seeing this happen ?

[FONT=&quot]That would be great news for all the 8mm- fans on all continents! [/FONT][FONT=&quot]As you might know, is the 8mmS/.323 -calibre very and increasingly popular in Europe with big numbers of users. There will be a marked to find for that kind of bullet, that's for sure. The bullet you describe will perfectly fit both the 8mmRM, 8 x 68S and the rimmed 8 x 75RS just to name some logical candidates. The suggested bullet would be perfect for hunting larger and large game at long distances in North America, Europe and of course in Africa. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]I can't wait! Please hold us updated![/FONT]

 

[Demon061]

[FONT=&quot]That would be great news for all the 8mm- fans on all continents! [/FONT][FONT=&quot]As you might know, is the 8mmS/.323 -calibre very and increasingly popular in Europe with big numbers of users. There will be a marked to find for that kind of bullet, that's for sure. The bullet you describe will perfectly fit both the 8mmRM, 8 x 68S and the rimmed 8 x 75RS just to name some logical candidates. The suggested bullet would be perfect for hunting larger and large game at long distances in North America, Europe and of course in Africa. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]I can't wait! Please hold us updated![/FONT]

Would love a less bullish 8mm

 

[Varberger757]

Would love a less bullish 8mm

Looking at the usual 8mm Mauser (8 x57IS) I understand your concerns, but you find many good shaped bullets out there which will fit it almost perfectly. From 150 - 200gr. The 8mm Mauser is a great all around cartridge, but not specifically suitable for LRH. That's where the "big 8s" come to their right, and those need to be feeded with bulletweights @Swamplord mentioned.

 

[Swamplord]

There are plenty of suitable bullets available for the 8x57, I won't waste my time, effort or $ in another 180-200 gr bullet, This will have to be a minimum of 220 gr

 

[Varberger757]

There are plenty of suitable bullets available for the 8x57, I won't waste my time, effort or $ in another 180-200 gr bullet, This will have to be a minimum of 220 gr

+1! @Swamplord, please give me a hint! For me it feels like Nosler could be involved (tipped bullet with high bc ...) And since they presented their .26 Nosler project it doesn't sound unlikely.

 

[Demon061]

Well, I'd love to see more 8mm's come out of the dark (I mean, 8mm Mag is an excellent round). Hand loading for 8x57 I'd like to see some higher BC bullets, it's not exactly a tiny case hahaah

 

[Varberger757]

Well, I'd love to see more 8mm's come out of the dark (I mean, 8mm Mag is an excellent round). Hand loading for 8x57 I'd like to see some higher BC bullets, it's not exactly a tiny case hahaah

I do love the 8x57IS, but in comparison to the 8mmRM or 8x68S it has a tiny case, yes! You already find .323 bullets with a good BC like the 200gr AB or 190gr. Swift Scirroco II, etc. You can use 8x57IS out to 500 - 600m for hunting large game, I personally think that's quite good. More is unfortunately not realistic due to lack of velocity.

 

[JamesW]

Thanks for your reply @JamesW!

The type muzzle - brake I use is a titanium made radial brake (Hdp) which is doing a really great job and reducing recoil by about 48%. Threads are metric M15 x 1 on 12mm length without spigot. They are produced by the Lutz Moeller company. Lutz Moeller is particulary known for his MJG - bullets made of brass. Same style of bullet as those from GS Custom (RSA). Very good both of them.
Disadvantage with the Lutz Moeller brakes is the massive debris while shooting prone. If it's dry you have to moisten all your nearest surrounding. I'd prefer an (american) brake with sideports, but they are hard to find with metric threads based on ISO - standards.

The Aussie copper - bullet looks promising, and its weight is correct to gain real high velocities.

Didn't want to thread the barrel so made a "clamp on" to fit around the front open sight, first shot, brake slipped forward and I'm still looking for that front blade (where is the STUPID emoticon)! Any way, I have now cleaned and used a bonding agent between the brake and barrel and all is good. First port is 90deg and the next 3 are at 14deg at the leading edge and 18deg on the trailing edge. This uses features of the several brakes I have looked at, with the first port at 90 to interupt the rear blast from the angled forward ports. It would be nice to wet the ground with anything around here at the moment! This is the driest continent on earth!

 

[Varberger757]

Your self - made brake looks very interesting. I'm always admiring people who can construct and machine this kind of gear by themselves. How much of the barrel is covered by your clamp - on? It's building considerably backwards, isn't it?
[FONT=&quot]Anyhow, now you can shoot your 8 x 68S with real comfort compared to previously. Now it won't matter if you're going to use heavy bullets on top of a considerably hard load. gun)[/FONT]

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Oh my, yes please.....

More details of your brake design.

 

[JamesW]

Your self - made brake looks very interesting. I'm always admiring people who can construct and machine this kind of gear by themselves. How much of the barrel is covered by your clamp - on? It's building considerably backwards, isn't it?
[FONT=&quot]Anyhow, now you can shoot your 8 x 68S with real comfort compared to previously. Now it won't matter if you're going to use heavy bullets on top of a considerably hard load. gun)[/FONT]

The brake was built to fit around the front sight which is 75mm long and 6mm from the front of the barell, leaving not enough room to thread, all up it is 106mm, would be perfect if it incorporated a moderator. First shot with the brake fitted it slipped and knocked the front sight off in a grassy paddock, and I am still looking for the front sight!!!! Have been out this afternoon with a mate sighting in his new Tikka T3 .243 (we need to sort the trigger)which now gives a sharper/harder kick than my 8x68S! I'm very impressed. Will probably thread the barell now there is no front sight in the way and machine up another brake.

The brake is not my design but a mix of others ideas- a 90 degree port at the start to block/diffuse the rearward blast from the front 3 ports which are 14 degrees at the leading edge and 18 degrees at the trailing edge. all ports are cut with a 6mm ball nose cutter. The brake is 28mm diameter and machined from titanium. Machined the original blank longer and the piece left over is long enough for a thread on brake.

 

[gohring3006]

The brake was built to fit around the front sight which is 75mm long and 6mm from the front of the barell, leaving not enough room to thread, all up it is 106mm, would be perfect if it incorporated a moderator. First shot with the brake fitted it slipped and knocked the front sight off in a grassy paddock, and I am still looking for the front sight!!!! Have been out this afternoon with a mate sighting in his new Tikka T3 .243 (we need to sort the trigger)which now gives a sharper/harder kick than my 8x68S! I'm very impressed. Will probably thread the barell now there is no front sight in the way and machine up another brake.

The brake is not my design but a mix of others ideas- a 90 degree port at the start to block/diffuse the rearward blast from the front 3 ports which are 14 degrees at the leading edge and 18 degrees at the trailing edge. all ports are cut with a 6mm ball nose cutter. The brake is 28mm diameter and machined from titanium. Machined the original blank longer and the piece left over is long enough for a thread on brake.

I have been thinking very hard on buying a Witt brake. How much trouble has the clamp on design giving you as far as loosening up? What steps did you take if any to prevent this? It looks bad ***...

 

[JamesW]

I have been thinking very hard on buying a Witt brake. How much trouble has the clamp on design giving you as far as loosening up? What steps did you take if any to prevent this? It looks bad ***...

gohring3006, I'm not the person to ask advice from, as I have never seen a brake in the flesh before I built this one, just did heaps of research! Due to the length and surface area contact the bonding agent I used would hold it on without the clamp. When I first installed it there were several things I did wrong, frog lube on barell and brake (this is slippery stuff) and soft stainless screws. Now it has high tensile screws and barell/brake cleaned and coated with Wurth KD bond and seal. The brake was also machined to a interference fit. A commercial clamp on's sucess would be dependent on it's fit to your barell.

Bring on a hunting 220g VLD.

 

[gohring3006]

gohring3006, I'm not the person to ask advice from, as I have never seen a brake in the flesh before I built this one, just did heaps of research! Due to the length and surface area contact the bonding agent I used would hold it on without the clamp. When I first installed it there were several things I did wrong, frog lube on barell and brake (this is slippery stuff) and soft stainless screws. Now it has high tensile screws and barell/brake cleaned and coated with Wurth KD bond and seal. The brake was also machined to a interference fit. A commercial clamp on's sucess would be dependent on it's fit to your barell.

Bring on a hunting 220g VLD.

Witt wants a measurement from the muzzle and a 1.5 in. Back so they can machine a tight fit with the contour. I have heard mixed reviews on them. I figure I'm not out that much money if I don't like it. I had one smith suggest that I fit it clamp it down then silver soldier it in place. I'm not sure if I like that idea..