WapitiBob, Looks like she is coming to ya,Glad to see it
7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner
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7stw
Well-Known Member
Man, I have been thinking about your ploy all afternoon, and the barrel tension was all I could come up with, but it DOES work on some barrels, and typically the standard contour barrels are the ones that benefit from it most. Those " noodle barrels" need all the help they can get. When you kick it in the *** with 65,000 psi of energy RIGHT NOW, it has all it can do to put bullets even near each other, let alone group. Once you find that sweet spot in your stock, as far as where you are putting tension, there is a more permanent solution, so you don't have to keep putting cards under it. I can tell you how to do it. It is really easy, and very effective. I am really glad that you tried the tension. It is not unique just to Remington. Most other manufactures do the same. Take care, and keep the faith. One last thing to remember is that this is a hunting rifle. You may not be able to get " Sendero" accuracy, but you should be able to get acceptable accuracy, or better. Take care.
7stw
Well-Known Member
Ed, think he is on to something now that will make her shoot.
But about your 6.5' man, I don't know if you have a ammo problem, or a Chamber/ headspace issue. I am leaning toward a ammo issue. The first 15 were fine, and then # 16 went haywire. And if I recall, it would not chamber that well either. I would have the gun checked, and maybe get a mold of the chamber, and compare it to the ammo, and particularly the throat and ogive on the ammo being used. I am glad that you did not get hurt, or the gun damaged. Let me know how you make out.
What do you think of sanding down the dia. of a Simms dampener to provide the "soft pressure" between the stock and barrel and moving it to tune the group ?
I was hoping for 1 minute groups from the factory barrel then next year buying a quality barrel and having it and the factory action worked up to finish off the custom gun along with a new trigger.
I was hoping for 1 minute groups from the factory barrel then next year buying a quality barrel and having it and the factory action worked up to finish off the custom gun along with a new trigger.
Big Jake Duke
Well-Known Member
I was able to pick up a savage longrange hunter in 7 mag. It will be "corrected" to 7stw next month. I dont know why the didint chamber that gun in 7stw. If a marketer for savage saw that this post grew to over 60 pages and a gazillion views, you would think that they would see the market.
Same thing with the 338sin. I am having one of those done too! Winchester would be wise to capture that cartridge.
Same thing with the 338sin. I am having one of those done too! Winchester would be wise to capture that cartridge.
etisll40
Well-Known Member
The 7 stw was all the rage and remington figured it out eventually, now we need Lapua and Norma to solidify it by making BRASS. Say a prayer, someone at Lapua and/or Norma hopefully will get the message. Right now there are 4 hot calibers it seems. 6mm, dasher,br,xc etc,, 260, by 284, x55, by 47, 280, stw, mag, wsm, then 300's, 338's etc. All we need is more quality brass. The 7 stw is interesting especially as a hunting round and maybe the best overall for the broadest variety of uses, even benchrest. I still believe we should send an occaisional email or letter, even hand written to Norma and Lapua to beg them to make brass.
On another note, I re-wrote my post without a negative tone and asked my gunsmith what he thought. He reamed it. I think 7stw is correct, my gunsmith used some form of tight reamer and the neck is tight. He was trying to make the gun really accurate but I think SAAMI safe, at least that's my interpretation right now. It is a real shooter. Lapua empty cases and commercial fireformed cases load fine, so it probably isn't unsafe, but has a "tight neck." I hope that's the answer anyway. In time, as the barrel wears, does the headspace change?
Does anyone buy go/no-go guages for their calibers as a tool to have on hand to check headspacing occaisionally. I'm thinking maybe I should for the different calibers I have?
On another note, I re-wrote my post without a negative tone and asked my gunsmith what he thought. He reamed it. I think 7stw is correct, my gunsmith used some form of tight reamer and the neck is tight. He was trying to make the gun really accurate but I think SAAMI safe, at least that's my interpretation right now. It is a real shooter. Lapua empty cases and commercial fireformed cases load fine, so it probably isn't unsafe, but has a "tight neck." I hope that's the answer anyway. In time, as the barrel wears, does the headspace change?
Does anyone buy go/no-go guages for their calibers as a tool to have on hand to check headspacing occaisionally. I'm thinking maybe I should for the different calibers I have?
gamehawker
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info.
Riverman
Well-Known Member
WapitiBob,
Have you ever tried those Berger 180 VLDs on a wapiti ? My second 7mm STW was a Model 70 factory job that became a 300 Weatherby. It has accounted for 7 bulls and other assorted western game over the last 10 years. Now I'm building another STW as a long range elk rifle but I have no experience with the 7mm STW on elk. I've have shot elk with the 300 Weatherby using, Nosler Accubonds, Swift A-frames and Barnes TTSX's. I see the boys on Best of the West bowling big bulls with VLD's but I'm a bit skeptical about a bullet that penetrates 3 inches and grenades.
I be interested in some real life feedback.
Have you ever tried those Berger 180 VLDs on a wapiti ? My second 7mm STW was a Model 70 factory job that became a 300 Weatherby. It has accounted for 7 bulls and other assorted western game over the last 10 years. Now I'm building another STW as a long range elk rifle but I have no experience with the 7mm STW on elk. I've have shot elk with the 300 Weatherby using, Nosler Accubonds, Swift A-frames and Barnes TTSX's. I see the boys on Best of the West bowling big bulls with VLD's but I'm a bit skeptical about a bullet that penetrates 3 inches and grenades.
I be interested in some real life feedback.
etisll40
Well-Known Member
Haha, let's chime in on 168 & 180 berger hunting vld guys, 7mm only...
What have you harvested with the 7stw and 168 bergers or 180 bergers.
I'm just starting re-loading some.
What have you harvested with the 7stw and 168 bergers or 180 bergers.
I'm just starting re-loading some.
Riverman
Well-Known Member
That was my question, I guess that I did not state it accurately? I have used Berger VLDs in 1000 and 600 yd bench rest competition shot out of a 6.5x284 Norma. They kill the hell out of target paper.
Who has experience with the Berger VLD's on elk ?
Who has experience with the Berger VLD's on elk ?
River, I haven't shot a thing with this gun. I'm a bowhunter but reserve WY Antelope for a rifle hunt. I started out wanting a 6.5 x 284 for Antelope then decided I might like to pop a Cow while in WY so I bumped it up to the STW.
I want a bullet for both Antelope and Elk. Not sure what that is at this point as I don't have much rifle experience. From what I read, the VLD's are a behind the shoulder bullet, Barnes are a high shoulder bullet and the Accubonds are a combination of both. Now that I have seen the gun shoot I can go back to the Accubonds as well as try the Barnes. I like the TTSX principal and see they are available in 150's. I think I'll go down and grab a box of those.
I want a bullet for both Antelope and Elk. Not sure what that is at this point as I don't have much rifle experience. From what I read, the VLD's are a behind the shoulder bullet, Barnes are a high shoulder bullet and the Accubonds are a combination of both. Now that I have seen the gun shoot I can go back to the Accubonds as well as try the Barnes. I like the TTSX principal and see they are available in 150's. I think I'll go down and grab a box of those.
7stw
Well-Known Member
Etisll40,
You are right on the brass issue, we need some GOOD brass to be made by a reputable maker, Lapua, Norma. I think they will in time.
Now, on your 6.5-55, things do make sense, IF the neck was cut with with a comp reamer, which means neck turning is needed. I have seen some some that a empty case will fit in, but a loaded one will not. WAY to tight for the average shooters like us. You may want to cerosafe that chamber, and take some measurements. I think that the ammo was more the issue than anything, but it is better to be a ton safe, than a little bit sorry. Headspace gages are always a good idea. I use them from time to time. Headspace dosen't change unless the rear of the bolt face wears. But that is a awful lot of wear to effect headspace. I put moly grease on the rear of my lugs. It makes it very smooth, and is a excellent wear guard. Take care, and I hope things work out for you on that 6.5. What a great bullet.
You are right on the brass issue, we need some GOOD brass to be made by a reputable maker, Lapua, Norma. I think they will in time.
Now, on your 6.5-55, things do make sense, IF the neck was cut with with a comp reamer, which means neck turning is needed. I have seen some some that a empty case will fit in, but a loaded one will not. WAY to tight for the average shooters like us. You may want to cerosafe that chamber, and take some measurements. I think that the ammo was more the issue than anything, but it is better to be a ton safe, than a little bit sorry. Headspace gages are always a good idea. I use them from time to time. Headspace dosen't change unless the rear of the bolt face wears. But that is a awful lot of wear to effect headspace. I put moly grease on the rear of my lugs. It makes it very smooth, and is a excellent wear guard. Take care, and I hope things work out for you on that 6.5. What a great bullet.
7stw
Well-Known Member
Ok, I'll bite. I have personally experienced three blow up on impact scenarios. At different distances, and two different calibers. I had two blow ups with a seven mag, one at 365 yds, and one at about 230 yards. Velocity was 2977' bullet was a 168 VLD. It pains me to admit this, because these bullets truly do shoot, and I can get them to shoot without much problems.
The third was with my 300 RUM@ 220 yards. That bullet was traveling fairly quick, and may explain it's demise, but the seven really had me wondering why they blew up.
Now, if you talk to someone else, they may tell you a different story. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Since that time, I have altered most of my formulas that involved them. I can feel the heat raining down on me pretty soon now!!!!!!!
Dano1
Well-Known Member
Wapatibob,
I've owned 2 rifles that needed pressure in their fore-ends to shoot. One was a Howa .243 the other was a Winchester model 70 .223 WSSM. both has sporter contour barrels, but the .223 had an even lighter weight barrel.
The fore-end pressure settled them down for some reason and they began to shoot much better. All of my other rifles have seemed to shoot best with a stress free, free floated barrel and only one has exhibited stringing due to barrel heat up.
Dan
I've owned 2 rifles that needed pressure in their fore-ends to shoot. One was a Howa .243 the other was a Winchester model 70 .223 WSSM. both has sporter contour barrels, but the .223 had an even lighter weight barrel.
The fore-end pressure settled them down for some reason and they began to shoot much better. All of my other rifles have seemed to shoot best with a stress free, free floated barrel and only one has exhibited stringing due to barrel heat up.
Dan
