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6.5 SS (Sherman Shortmag)

To make your 7mmSS would you need o neck down 300saum or can you do basically the same procedure since your turn the neck??

I make the 7 SS the same way. You just leave the neck wall slightly thicker and turn it to 1.630" from the case head instead of 1.640.....Rich
 
UPDATED PROCEDURE TO FORM 6.5SS BRASS:

Equipment and materials:

Press
7 SAUM die shortened .090"-.100" (RCBS)
6.5 SS die set
Case Trimmer
Neck turner
Calipers accurate to .000
Chamfer tool (inside and outside)
7SAUM brass (prefer Norma)
Remoil spray
Shop towels
Q-tips

(1) Trim 7 SAUM cases to 1.968" (plus or minus .002") but try to get as equal as possible.
(2) chamfer case mouth inside and out
(3) Apply a VERY light film of Remoil inside and out of case neck with a piece of shop towel for outside and Q-tip for inside.
(4) Push shoulder back .084" with shortened 7 saum die (you can measure before and after with bump gauge included in 6.5SS die set (REMEMBER as little Remoil as can be applied) use one extra stroke thru the expander to help iron out the doughnut.
(5) Set the neck turning tool to cut the wall to approx. .014". Neck should be turned to 1.640" measured from the case head
(6) Set the 6.5 SS die approx .010" short of where you will normally size a fire formed case. This will help headspace the case. (use more if necessary) test fit for a little tension on bolt closure. Necking to 6.5 from 7 will thicken the case wall about .0005".

I usually run through an entire lot of cases a step at a time. i.e. Trim all cases first and so on.
Your case with a bullet loaded should measure .294" neck o.d. to get .004" chamber clearance. Minimum of .003" should be maintained, but .004"-.006" is better. Use a bushing that sizes the neck .002" under (i.e. loaded diameter of .294" should use a .292" bushing). Your brass will be approx .005"-.010" over chamber length before fire forming. (THIS IS GOOD) It will shrink approx. .015" in length when fire forming. The extra length will center the case in the chamber making the forming more concentric.
*CAUTION* MAKE SURE FIRST FIRING TO FORM THE CASE IS AT LEAST 5 GRAINS BELOW MAX! as extra case length could cause excessive pressure!
Load a bullet and fire away. It is not necessary to jam the bullet if the above procedures are followed. You can also use the COW method if you want to.
AFTER FIRE FORMING trim the cases to 1.950". Your chamber is 1.960".
Exactly what I needed. Thank you for the thorough write up. One question, it looks like you are using the Hornady Neck Turn Tool. What is your opinion of the tool? I have read some mixed reviews and so a bit hesitant to place the order. Also, do you just hold it as you run the drill press or how does that work?
 
Exactly what I needed. Thank you for the thorough write up. One question, it looks like you are using the Hornady Neck Turn Tool. What is your opinion of the tool? I have read some mixed reviews and so a bit hesitant to place the order. Also, do you just hold it as you run the drill press or how does that work?

I like the tool WITH a carbide cutter but put in a steel and it is not near as good. Holding the tool works well for me. Make sure the mandrel is a good fit, but not TOO tight!......Rich
 
UPDATED PROCEDURE TO FORM 6.5SS BRASS:

Equipment and materials:

Press
7 SAUM die shortened .090"-.100" (RCBS)
6.5 SS die set
Case Trimmer
Neck turner
Calipers accurate to .000
Chamfer tool (inside and outside)
7SAUM brass (prefer Norma)
Remoil spray
Shop towels
Q-tips

(1) Trim 7 SAUM cases to 1.968" (plus or minus .002") but try to get as equal as possible.
(2) chamfer case mouth inside and out
(3) Apply a VERY light film of Remoil inside and out of case neck with a piece of shop towel for outside and Q-tip for inside.
(4) Push shoulder back .084" with shortened 7 saum die (you can measure before and after with bump gauge included in 6.5SS die set (REMEMBER as little Remoil as can be applied) use one extra stroke thru the expander to help iron out the doughnut.
(5) Set the neck turning tool to cut the wall to approx. .014". Neck should be turned to 1.640" measured from the case head
(6) Set the 6.5 SS die approx .010" short of where you will normally size a fire formed case. This will help headspace the case. (use more if necessary) test fit for a little tension on bolt closure. Necking to 6.5 from 7 will thicken the case wall about .0005".

I usually run through an entire lot of cases a step at a time. i.e. Trim all cases first and so on.
Your case with a bullet loaded should measure .294" neck o.d. to get .004" chamber clearance. Minimum of .003" should be maintained, but .004"-.006" is better. Use a bushing that sizes the neck .002" under (i.e. loaded diameter of .294" should use a .292" bushing). Your brass will be approx .005"-.010" over chamber length before fire forming. (THIS IS GOOD) It will shrink approx. .015" in length when fire forming. The extra length will center the case in the chamber making the forming more concentric.
*CAUTION* MAKE SURE FIRST FIRING TO FORM THE CASE IS AT LEAST 5 GRAINS BELOW MAX! as extra case length could cause excessive pressure!
Load a bullet and fire away. It is not necessary to jam the bullet if the above procedures are followed. You can also use the COW method if you want to.
AFTER FIRE FORMING trim the cases to 1.950". Your chamber is 1.960".
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If I buy the brass you make, what steps to I have to do to be ready to shoot?
 
I like the tool WITH a carbide cutter but put in a steel and it is not near as good. Holding the tool works well for me. Make sure the mandrel is a good fit, but not TOO tight!......Rich
Remember where you found the carbide cutter? I can't find any replacement cutters, carbide or steel. Maybe I'm to late to the party and they quit selling replacement blades. I've sent Hornady an email but I'm not holding my breadth as they don't even list them on their own site anymore. I may have to go with the more expensive K&M tool.
 
Remember where you found the carbide cutter? I can't find any replacement cutters, carbide or steel. Maybe I'm to late to the party and they quit selling replacement blades. I've sent Hornady an email but I'm not holding my breadth as they don't even list them on their own site anymore. I may have to go with the more expensive K&M tool.

I am not sure that you can get just a cutter from them. I was stating that because I had a Hornady with a steel and one with a carbide. The ready to fire Norma SS brass is $2.50
 
I am not sure that you can get just a cutter from them. I was stating that because I had a Hornady with a steel and one with a carbide. The ready to fire Norma SS brass is $2.50
Ah. That makes sense. They must have discontinued the carbide one as they only list the steel cutter on their site and all the retailers I have found that sells them only list the steel as well. Thank you for all the assistance/info Rich, I appreciate it.
 
Ah. That makes sense. They must have discontinued the carbide one as they only list the steel cutter on their site and all the retailers I have found that sells them only list the steel as well. Thank you for all the assistance/info Rich, I appreciate it.

No problem! Since Hornady PROBABLY only makes steel now, I would suggest something else with a carbide cutter......Rich
 
Just heard from Hornady, that was quick. They don't make the carbide anymore but they do sell replacement steel cutters, for $13.65. I think I will keep looking.
 
You can use 300 saum too. You just have to adjust the tools a little.....Rich
Can I use 300 SAUM brass for a 6.5SS? I found a really good deal, $1.38/ea, for new Norma.

If not, what COAL are you running your 7SS at, apparently this impacts which caliber Tikka I buy? I'm not married to the 6.5 but I am needing to keep the cost down where possible and if the 7 is cheaper to build than the 6.5 then okay.
 
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