CA Ridgeline FFT
6.5 PRC issues
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SteveBurton
Formerly 'Jackmonkey'
I've read every response in this post and understand it's a brand-new rifle with factory ammo. Whew! Got that out of the way.
I will tell you some of my experience with a CA Ridgeline in 6.5 PRC while trying not to trash CA. Many things have already been discussed but IMHO, the first thing you need to do is remove the carbon. Having been the victim to carbon fouling in more than rifle, I can tell you that your high pressure signs can be caused by what your barrel looks like. The carbon that builds up around the neck area won't allow the case neck to expand to release the bullet, causing high pressure. The carbon in the throat area builds up and makes the bore tighter for the bullet to pass through, causing high pressure. Clean those two areas and it "should" shoot better.
You have a borescope so clean it until it is a mirror. I use IOSSO to clean my barrels now and it works well. Some people will say you don't need to use it but until you get that barrel sparkly clean, you won't know what you are working with. Once you have the barrel clean, shoot a couple of rounds to check for pressure and then look at the barrel again to see how much carbon is in it. Using a suppressor causes more carbon deposits in my experience also. Try shooting without it and see what happens. YMMV As far as the borescope, adjust the angled mirror in or out to focus the picture.
Also, after you get the chamber/throat clean, check the chamber with a go/no go gauge. My Ridgeline had 0.011 headspace and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. I would get the double plunger marks on some cases. I also had the tight chamber that has plagued many factory PRCs and would get clickers on some of my handloads.
Whatever you do with this rifle, DO NOT tell CA that you have used a suppressor or handloaded ammo. DO NOT modify or change the rifle in any way. You have only used factory ammo in it, right?
They will not warranty the rifle otherwise. Ask me how I know.
Good luck and keep us informed on your progress. Just for the record, my Ridgeline shoots fantastic now with a McMillan Game Hunter stock and a CarbonSix barrel!
I will tell you some of my experience with a CA Ridgeline in 6.5 PRC while trying not to trash CA. Many things have already been discussed but IMHO, the first thing you need to do is remove the carbon. Having been the victim to carbon fouling in more than rifle, I can tell you that your high pressure signs can be caused by what your barrel looks like. The carbon that builds up around the neck area won't allow the case neck to expand to release the bullet, causing high pressure. The carbon in the throat area builds up and makes the bore tighter for the bullet to pass through, causing high pressure. Clean those two areas and it "should" shoot better.
You have a borescope so clean it until it is a mirror. I use IOSSO to clean my barrels now and it works well. Some people will say you don't need to use it but until you get that barrel sparkly clean, you won't know what you are working with. Once you have the barrel clean, shoot a couple of rounds to check for pressure and then look at the barrel again to see how much carbon is in it. Using a suppressor causes more carbon deposits in my experience also. Try shooting without it and see what happens. YMMV As far as the borescope, adjust the angled mirror in or out to focus the picture.
Also, after you get the chamber/throat clean, check the chamber with a go/no go gauge. My Ridgeline had 0.011 headspace and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. I would get the double plunger marks on some cases. I also had the tight chamber that has plagued many factory PRCs and would get clickers on some of my handloads.
Whatever you do with this rifle, DO NOT tell CA that you have used a suppressor or handloaded ammo. DO NOT modify or change the rifle in any way. You have only used factory ammo in it, right?
They will not warranty the rifle otherwise. Ask me how I know.Good luck and keep us informed on your progress. Just for the record, my Ridgeline shoots fantastic now with a McMillan Game Hunter stock and a CarbonSix barrel!
Good on you for posting your experience and the warnings about CA. Having to re-barrel and restock a $3,000 rifle doesn't really cut it in my books. Might as well have bought a quality action and built from scratch but you already know that, you were just salvaging what you could. Between my experience with multiple Bergara that I have bedded and otherwise fixed and what I have been reading here and on other threads about CA, I certainly have no desire to buy either for my own use.I've read every response in this post and understand it's a brand-new rifle with factory ammo. Whew! Got that out of the way.
I will tell you some of my experience with a CA Ridgeline in 6.5 PRC while trying not to trash CA. Many things have already been discussed but IMHO, the first thing you need to do is remove the carbon. Having been the victim to carbon fouling in more than rifle, I can tell you that your high pressure signs can be caused by what your barrel looks like. The carbon that builds up around the neck area won't allow the case neck to expand to release the bullet, causing high pressure. The carbon in the throat area builds up and makes the bore tighter for the bullet to pass through, causing high pressure. Clean those two areas and it "should" shoot better.
You have a borescope so clean it until it is a mirror. I use IOSSO to clean my barrels now and it works well. Some people will say you don't need to use it but until you get that barrel sparkly clean, you won't know what you are working with. Once you have the barrel clean, shoot a couple of rounds to check for pressure and then look at the barrel again to see how much carbon is in it. Using a suppressor causes more carbon deposits in my experience also. Try shooting without it and see what happens. YMMV As far as the borescope, adjust the angled mirror in or out to focus the picture.
Also, after you get the chamber/throat clean, check the chamber with a go/no go gauge. My Ridgeline had 0.011 headspace and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. I would get the double plunger marks on some cases. I also had the tight chamber that has plagued many factory PRCs and would get clickers on some of my handloads.
Whatever you do with this rifle, DO NOT tell CA that you have used a suppressor or handloaded ammo. DO NOT modify or change the rifle in any way. You have only used factory ammo in it, right?
Good luck and keep us informed on your progress. Just for the record, my Ridgeline shoots fantastic now with a McMillan Game Hunter stock and a CarbonSix barrel!
I've read and looked at the pictures you've posted there is definitely something wrong with this rifle if this is all on the up and up I'm not calling you out on anything but this should "NOT" be fired again till it's been sent back and fixed with proof that they fixed it and compensate should be made for the price of your ammo to
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
My limited knowledge, is that the subject rifle has dual ejectors & a M16 type extractor. Never handled one or shot one. Should I have the OP's problem I would send the whole works, as is, no cleaning, back to CArms, including some fired brass & bore/chamber photos. Info should include ammo lot number. I would also contact Hornady & tell them about the problems. There should be enough fired brass to provide all with a sample(s). Any modifications such as adding a brake or using handloads might void a warranty.
This is a new rifle and heavy black crud & copper fouling deposits interfering with extraction should not have occurred with the limited amount of factory ammo fired. Stuff happens, my guess is that the leade has rough tool marks that rapidly accumulated hard black crud & copper fouling. Photos of fired brass show body scuff marks, small dents around what could be unburned ball powder grains, and black deposits. This would indicate powder gasses being blown back from leade caused by hard & heavy black crud deposits deposited on leade tool marks that prevented adequate neck expansion. A similar situation would occur if brass was too long - no trimming or short chamber - inadequate neck expansion. Trying to slip fit a bullet into a fired brass neck might indicate the amount of neck expansion - an easy slip fit should occur.
CArms and every gunsmith & barrel maker are familiar with "carbon rings" problems.
This is a new rifle and heavy black crud & copper fouling deposits interfering with extraction should not have occurred with the limited amount of factory ammo fired. Stuff happens, my guess is that the leade has rough tool marks that rapidly accumulated hard black crud & copper fouling. Photos of fired brass show body scuff marks, small dents around what could be unburned ball powder grains, and black deposits. This would indicate powder gasses being blown back from leade caused by hard & heavy black crud deposits deposited on leade tool marks that prevented adequate neck expansion. A similar situation would occur if brass was too long - no trimming or short chamber - inadequate neck expansion. Trying to slip fit a bullet into a fired brass neck might indicate the amount of neck expansion - an easy slip fit should occur.
CArms and every gunsmith & barrel maker are familiar with "carbon rings" problems.
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bonie
Well-Known Member
I've only ever seen markings like that on a bullet when they contact the rifling, my thoughts are the freebore is not properly cut, send it back,
Thank you all for your information. I have cleaned it since the pictures but now I know not clean enough. Not really sure what I'm going to do yet. I might try to get it cleaned out and try it again. I do agree a rifle like this shouldn't have this kind of issue right off the bat but I can blame a little on myself for not cleaning it like I should. It might be a bit before I get some more rounds through it since it's hard to get away. And than again I might just send it back. Either way I go I'll post what I come up with.
Edit: after reading all the information I believe that this is factory ammo as the OP stated.. Sorry for posting without reading all the posts first..
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30 rounds in not enough to cause the kinds of issues you are seeing… I would NOT shoot this anymore, this is going to get you hurt.
Can a guy change the title if there's a way I willThat's not your issue. But thanks for sharing as many variables as possible.
Title should be changed to CA issue not 6.5prc.
RockyMtnUT
Well-Known Member
You can usually edit posts up to some given point. But it won't let you now I believe. No biggie. Hope it gets worked out for you.
Joefrazell
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2017
- Messages
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The very very 1st thing you need to do is call Christensen. Tell them what's going on. I'd use iosso and bore tech and clean that barrel till its a mirror finish but I wouldn't do that yet being it's a factory rifle. You don't wanna give them any reason to wiggle out of helping you although I don't think they will do that. Gotta give them a chance to make it right. Btw I've got a mesa fft and absolutely love that rifle! I'm 2/2 out of Christensens being good. I better not buy any more since I've got the only two good ones out of all the guys on the internet . Please contact them and let us know what happens?
. Please contact them and let us know what happens?nralifer
Well-Known Member
I had a very similar problem with my 308 Win when I tried using CFE223 powder. Agree you are getting carbon buildup in throat in the form of a ring causing the scratches. You have to do 2 things. First is to get rid of the ring. I recommend Bore Tech carbon remover Saturate area with soaked patches, let sit in barrel for 2-3 hrs then clean with a nilon or brass brush and repeat until patches come out clean. The carbon cleaner also will get rid of some copper. Then follow up with Bore Tech copper remover using the same method, but skip the brass brush step. That was only to help mechanically abrade the carbon ring. Make a dummy round and see if chambers easily. If it does then the ammo you are using has got dirty powder. Only recourse in the long run is to use cleaner burning powder. What powders do you have to reload with? In the meantime clean the carbon out after every 20 shots or so. The copper cleaning is less important.
nralifer
Well-Known Member
You said the rifle at first shot well, is that right? Also take a pic of the bolt face to see what it looks like.
