.308 Starting load

[jglenn]

By the way if you want a aluminum replacement bottom metal for your 600 i have an extra one laying around I'd sell.

 

[Seabeeken]

Thanks, I've been mulling the all copper bullets around in my mind. I'm not real familiar with them but I have heard where you can drive lighter all copper bullets faster and deliver them with similar energy to slower, traditional lead and copper bullets. I might have to look into this more seriously and get it figured out for myself. Thanks for suggesting the 130 grain TSX and TTSX. A good place to start.

I understand that there can be some issues with fouled barrels too. If you have been shooting lead and copper bullets, you need to scrub the barrel down to steel before shooting the all copper bullets. Otherwise they won't shoot well. Not sure why. The vice versa is true too. If you make the switch from all copper bullets to lead and copper bullets, you got to scrub the bore again. Wish I knew the reason. Different copper alloys maybe? I heard Ron Spomer mention this on his pod-cast. I don't think he could explain why either but, it was his observation.

I think it was also on Ron's pod-cast that I heard him mentioned the idea of using light all copper bullets driven at faster velocities to the same down range energies.

Mark, Been shooting Barnes for several decades. If you have a good quality barrel with a decent bore then copper fouling will be minimal. My barrels are mainly match grade and I see little to no fouling. Every hunting rifle I own uses Barnes. Hammers are a good option and foul even less than Barnes. The reputation of Barnes fouling bad came about before the displacement grooves were used and the grooves give the displaced copper a place to go and they work well. You may hear tales of Barnes not expanding and I can say from killing more dozens of deer than I can count that I have NEVER had a Barnes fail to expand. I did however have 1 Hornady GMX fail to expand and never used them again. Barnes or Hammers have never failed me. I've also killed deer with the 101 Hammer in th 7AI with full penetration. I also recommend Starting at .050 off the lands as Barnes recommends. .050 shoots .5" or better in every rifle I have except 1 which is a 280AI that prefers .030 off the lands. Copper bullets also destroy less meat than cup and core bullets. What I've said is from experience thru testing and hunting with copper for over 30 years, not heresay

 

[MarkInPA]

By the way if you want a aluminum replacement bottom metal for your 600 i have an extra one laying around I'd sell.

Thanks. I purchased an aftermarket steel one that is supposed to be delivered sometime today. Being delivered from someplace in western Colorado. That bottom metal is not cheap. I stopped and paused before making that purchase. The original plastic one is selling for $65.00.

 

[MarkInPA]

You can buy a replacement trigger guard assembly made of aluminum or metal from Heritage Arms Inc. If interested. Mine was warped. I just bought one for a Rem 222 and the quality was well worth the price. A lot nicer than the plastic bulging out.

I hear you. I know all too well about the plastic bottom metal.

 

[Josh06]

I have a new to me .308 Winchester with a short 18" barrel. A Remington Mohawk 600. I don't have any experience loading for it. I will be using it for whitetails at ranges probably not exceeding 200 yards. Most likely, 100 yards would be the maximum range. I've been thinking of starting with 165 grain bullets either from Sierra or Nosler. Not sure on the powder choice yet. Can you give me some feedback? Just looking for a starting place. Any suggestions on bullet and powder choices?

I have used Benchmark and Xterminator with success in short barrel 308's. Current load for my 18" 308 is xterminator with a 168 ablr.

 

[Stadoc]

My son & nephew both have Christenson Arms Ridgeline in 18" barrel length this is what I load for them IMR4064 38.0gr LRM primer Berger 168gr Classic Hunter Peterson brass 2.810COAL both shoot lights out

168 classic hunter is what I use in my 20in steyr 308. With 44 gr of Varget 2.850 coal. It is a tac driver.

 

[Stadoc]

168 classic hunter is what I use in my 20in steyr 308. With 44 gr of Varget 2.850 coal. It is a tac driver.

Correction 165 grain vld hunter, I use the 185 classic hunter in my Benelli lupo 308.

 

[Josh06]

I have used Benchmark and Xterminator with success in short barrel 308's. Current load for my 18" 308 is xterminator with a 168 ablr.

I also had good luck with CFE 223. Great velocity and accuracy with 178 eldms

 

[MarkInPA]

Is printing this page to a PDF the easiest way to download and save this thread?

 

[MarkInPA]

For me, I don't like the metal bottom metal, I received from Heritage Manufacturing. It just came today. It's not an exact fit. It seems to sit high and despite it sitting high, my guard screw is too long to fully engage. I would have to do some inletting on the stock and shorten my guard screw which I don't think I want to do. So, I'm a little disappointed. I see that Numrich Gun parts have some for sale too. Maybe give them a try.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

For me, I don't like the metal bottom metal, I received from Heritage Manufacturing. It just came today. It's not an exact fit. It seems to sit high and despite it sitting high, my guard screw is too long to fully engage. I would have to do some inletting on the stock and shorten my guard screw which I don't think I want to do. So, I'm a little disappointed. I see that Numrich Gun parts have some for sale too. Maybe give them a try.

I read in the reviews that you needed to shorten the front screw. Or buy their replacement screw. My metal fit fine for the 222 Rem. And even if it hadn't a little wood work is manageable. I come to expect this with aftermarket parts for vehicles. So I figure firearms not much different. lol

 

[MarkInPA]

I read in the reviews that you needed to shorten the front screw. Or buy their replacement screw. My metal fit fine for the 222 Rem. And even if it hadn't a little wood work is manageable. I come to expect this with aftermarket parts for vehicles. So I figure firearms not much different. lol

Yes, the screw part is minor. I could always buy a new screw and keep my existing one as is. I just put a new Boyds stock on the rifle, so I hate to go in and start hacking on it already. I'll probably just mull it around in my mind for a bit.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

Yes, the screw part is minor. I could always buy a new screw and keep my existing one as is. I just put a new Boyds stock on the rifle, so I hate to go in and start hacking on it already. I'll probably just mull it around in my mind for a bit.

I got the factory stock. Perhaps this is why yours don't fit as nice. Boyds does state there may need to be some fitting on their stocks.

 

[MarkInPA]

I got the factory stock. Perhaps this is why yours don't fit as nice. Boyds does state there may need to be some fitting on their stocks.

Yep, they do state that minor fitting may be required. I could also try and work down the bottom metal too. Like I said, I'm just going to put it aside and for awhile and mull it around in my mind. Sometimes its best to think about things instead of just jumping right into them.

The OEM plastic piece fits into the new stock perfectly. So I'm not sure if it is the stock that is out of spec. It is a close fit though.