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300WM Sendero re-design

I guess I am in minority on this one. I have a Sendero 300WM from 2000 and tend to agree a bit on HS stock but rifle shoots so well that I cannot even think about changing anything on it. Minor change is Timney trigger and Tubb spring/pin added. It will hold 3/4" at 300 yds with 72.5 gr RL-22 and 200 Accubond. The rifle weight can be thought of an issue but I am 6'4" and 255 so the rifle weight is irrelevant to me right now even though I am 68 years young. If I thought weight was a problem, I'd take couple pounds out of my pack, wear lighter clothing or something else. I actually love heavy rifles for that one shot that you can get that has to be taken off hand or leaning against something. That extra stability from weight is comforting to me.
 
I guess I am in minority on this one.

The fact that we're all built different, have longer or shorter arms and necks, like different ergonomic of stocks is what makes the world go 'round. We wouldn't have the huge variety of components to build from if we were limited to the cookie cutter mentality.

Buy what you like and what fits you. Then go shoot!

Regards.
 
I think I would stay with a rail and quality rings instead of going to the one peice talleys. There are some pretty light choices out there for rail/rings, going to a lighter rifle weight with a heavy scope puts more stress on the mounting setup.
If you want to save some weight there are lighter options than the burris as well, although it is a pretty good scope.

If you want to go steel barrel nothing wrong with a #4 barrel (.625" muzzle), carbon wrapped something like a sendero light contour. I have a couple rifles with a 26" #4, they are plenty accurate, both easily make hits on my 9" gongs at 800-900 yards. Tougher to shoot a light rifle for sure, but they are still very capable.
 
Cut it back to 22" and lose 1lb. Replace that scope and save another 1lb.

Go to a standard magnum contour and an actual hunting scope and an actual hunting stock and save about 3.5lb.
 
I just built a rifle for my brother, Stiller tac 300, 26" proof sendero light in 7mag, sitting in a mickey game hunter with Hawkins bdl bottom metal. Weight is just under 7#. The game hunter has great ergos and is nice and light, more rigid than my manners stocks. Stiller weight should be comparable to a rem 700. Biggest weight saving is stock @ 1.7# and the barrel is same exact contour as rem sendero, yet is under 3#.
 
Cut it back to 22" and lose 1lb. Replace that scope and save another 1lb.

Go to a standard magnum contour and an actual hunting scope and an actual hunting stock and save about 3.5lb.
Cutting 4" of barrel off a Sendero will not lose 1#. And will cost you about 100+fps in MV.

What is an "actual hunting scope"? All of my rifles are "actual hunting rifles" and wear high end scopes. Be it a S&B, Premier, Kahles, TT, or March. So that makes them "actual hunting scopes", right?

There are several ways to lighten up that R700 Sendero and not lose performance (that is key in my opinion).
Proof Research Sendero or Sendero Light contour @ 26" or any quality steel barrel in #3, 3b, 4 countour. You can even flute it for a few ounces more weight savings. 12-16+oz.

Manners EH series or McMillan Edge stock of your choice will shave 12-16oz. You could even do one in ADL configuration to shave another ounce or two.

Flute the bolt will shave 1oz.
Carbon fiber bolt knob will shave 1oz.
Skeltonize bolt handle will shave 1oz
Alloy bolt shroud will shave 1.5oz
TI firing pin and Wolfe Blitzshnell spring will shave .25oz (not even worth it in weight, but seems to help accuracy in my rifle a touch)

Alloy Picatinny vs steel Picatinny will save 3oz
Alloy rings vs steel will save 2oz
A scope change can save 14-20oz depending on swap. But if you want the same type of scope as the XTRII (FFP, reticle w. Subtensions, illumination, 50mm objective, turrets, etc.), more likely in the 6-13oz range if you have the budget for a March (24.4oz) Vortex AMG(28.8oz), or TT315M (27.7oz) range.

My .280AI is similar.
R700 LA BDL (alloy BDL)
Fluted bolt w. CF knob, alloy shroud, TI firing pin
26" Proof Sendero Light
Hawkins 3 port brake
Manners EH1
Shilen match trigger
Seekins alloy 20MOA Picatinny rail
Seekins alloy 30mm medium rings
March F 3-24×52
Flatline Ops level

All in weighs 8lbs 13oz. Bare rifle was 6lbs 12oz.
Could have saved a few more ounces by going Talley lightweight rings, but every rifle I own has Seekins 20MOA base and Seekins rings. I like to have the ability to quickly swap scopes if the need arises on a hunt. Could have done a lighter scope too. But a SFP Leupold with no illumination has no appeal to me. All my scopes are similar in features and feel. Makes using them all easier. And high end glass seem to weigh a bit more.

Someday, I might just build a true lightweight. But for now, sub-9# is plenty lightweight for me.
 
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Would it make more sense to sell the Sendero as is, buy a Rem 700 action, order your stock, trigger, etc and go that route? I think I'd just sell it and start over. If it's a good shooting rifle you shouldn't have any problem finding a buyer. I think you'd probably come out better.
 
Cutting 4" of barrel off a Sendero will not lose 1#. And will cost you about 100+fps in MV.
2,800 fps with a 200 gr Accubond will kill anything you hit well with it....even at 800 yards.
What is an "actual hunting scope"? All of my rifles are "actual hunting rifles" and wear high end scopes. Be it a S&B, Premier, Kahles, TT, or March. So that makes them "actual hunting scopes", right?.
Hunting scopes are primarily designed for hunting. That is why they are lighter, and you aren't the one complaining about weight.
There are several ways to lighten up that R700 Sendero and not lose performance (that is key in my opinion).
Proof Research Sendero or Sendero Light contour @ 26" or any quality steel barrel in #3, 3b, 4 countour. You can even flute it for a few ounces more weight savings. 12-16+oz.

Manners EH series or McMillan Edge stock of your choice will shave 12-16oz. You could even do one in ADL configuration to shave another ounce or two.

Flute the bolt will shave 1oz.
Carbon fiber bolt knob will shave 1oz.
Skeltonize bolt handle will shave 1oz
Alloy bolt shroud will shave 1.5oz
TI firing pin and Wolfe Blitzshnell spring will shave .25oz (not even worth it in weight, but seems to help accuracy in my rifle a touch)

Alloy Picatinny vs steel Picatinny will save 3oz
Alloy rings vs steel will save 2oz
A scope change can save 14-20oz depending on swap. But if you want the same type of scope as the XTRII (FFP, reticle w. Subtensions, illumination, 50mm objective, turrets, etc.), more likely in the 6-13oz range if you have the budget for a March (24.4oz) Vortex AMG(28.8oz), or TT315M (27.7oz) range.

My .280AI is similar.
R700 LA BDL (alloy BDL)
Fluted bolt w. CF knob, alloy shroud, TI firing pin
26" Proof Sendero Light
Hawkins 3 port brake
Manners EH1
Shilen match trigger
Seekins alloy 20MOA Picatinny rail
Seekins alloy 30mm medium rings
March F 3-24×52
Flatline Ops level

All in weighs 8lbs 13oz. Bare rifle was 6lbs 12oz.
Could have saved a few more ounces by going Talley lightweight rings, but every rifle I own has Seekins 20MOA base and Seekins rings. I like to have the ability to quickly swap scopes if the need arises on a hunt. Could have done a lighter scope too. But a SFP Leupold with no illumination has no appeal to me. All my scopes are similar in features and feel. Makes using them all easier. And high end glass seem to weigh a bit more.

Someday, I might just build a true lightweight. But for now, sub-9# is plenty lightweight for me.
If you are going to do all that, then why modify a Remington at all? Just buy a Christensen Arms and be done with it. It would be better and cheaper in the long run.
 
You are absolutely correct that a 200gr bullet @ 2800 will kill elk to 800 with proper shot placement. No question about it.

Those hunting scopes might be lighter, but lack a lot of features that a lot of people prefer. Myself included. You are right, I wasn't complaining about weight. But I will add 6-16 oz for top tier glass, features, and reliability all day long. Not the case with probably 85% of the hunting population though. So for most, they are more than adequate. I can concede that point as well.

Christensen Arms better? Absolutely not.
Cheaper? Absolutely. But not everyone wants a cookie-cutter factory rifle. That is what keeps gunsmiths in business.

This is a rifle I have had for about 17 years. Bought it at a Pawn shop as a R700 BDL .30-06 for $250 just for the action.

Built a .25-06AI for an antelope rifle with it. My first "custom". B&C Medalist stock, 28" Lilja #4, Leupold Vari-x III 6.5-20×50. Used it all that time for a bunch of mule deer, coyotes, javelina, all the while waiting for an AZ antelope tag....that still has not been drawn. Used by several family members and friends too, 3 generations of family members actually.

After a lot of rounds, and being a 1:10" twist which limited it to the 115 Berger, it was time to rebuild it again. And lighten it up. Sold the stock, barrel w. Dies and brass and loaded rounds, and scope. I built it into the .280AI for a mountain rifle capable of taking any AZ big game I point it at.
 
Would it make more sense to sell the Sendero as is, buy a Rem 700 action, order your stock, trigger, etc and go that route? I think I'd just sell it and start over. If it's a good shooting rifle you shouldn't have any problem finding a buyer. I think you'd probably come out better.
By the time you get a 700 trued up, you'll be close to the price of a custom. The kelbly atlas and gunwerks grb actions can be had for 8-900$ and a good base to build off of.
 
I appreciate the continued thoughts and options.

Selling the gun is a no-go; this was my first rifle, I'm happy to modify it but it has sentimental value.

A gun must wear a certain type of optic to retain use as a long range rifle. There are lighter options than a 4-20 XTR II, but not by a ton, and I'm already invested in this scope so it will stay.

I'm not interested in a rifle built by Christensen or anyone else; a rifle built by me has all the money invested in components. A rifle built by someone else pays labor and profit to someone else out of the cost. Plus I simply get a lot of satisfaction out of accomplishing things with a rifle I put together myself...
 
Send me a PM..I have three sets of talley lights in the 34 mm ...
I'm running two of the Burris xtr ii , they are on my Edges .
I have had great success with the Senderos in 7 mm , 300 win.and 300 ultra but if I rebarrel I would go with the standard magnum profile, why spend the money on a proof for the same weight?? I guess it would be Cool ...but for more than double the $$$ no thanks .
Just my two cents !
 
Why Proof over a lighter tapered steel? Stiffness of a bull with the weight of a magnum sporter.

You can get a Proof for a little bit over the price of a fluted Bartlein if you look and are patient.
 
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