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300 WSM not firing

I might be missing it, but have you compared a fired piece v a sized piece? How was the rifle pointed when you had them at the range, where they didn't fire v when you fired the primed cases at home?
Sorry if I'm missing something
 
I might be missing it, but have you compared a fired piece v a sized piece? How was the rifle pointed when you had them at the range, where they didn't fire v when you fired the primed cases at home?
Sorry if I'm missing something
I haven't compared a fired pice vs a sized pice. I'll do that tomorrow.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I use a cheap lee hand priming tool and Remington primers. I went back and seated the primers again and noticed they all were not seated fully. I believe this is was my problem. If all goes well I'll be able to make it to the range today.

I used to use one of those Lee hand priming tools. It was satisfactory as long as I consciously thought about applying enough pressure to seat the primer fully. Then I got an RCBS hand priming tool. I think it is slightly better ergonomically (the Lee hand primer used to leave my thumb sore), but it was not foolproof. I now use an RCBS bench-top tool. I think it gives me a better "feel" for the priming process, and I no longer have primers that fail to go off.
 
I use an RCBS Ram Prime. I uniform the primer pockets so that once I set up the ram prime all of the primers are seated exactly the same. I have never had a problem with the primer from touching them. Of course I have clean dry hands. Here is a link if you are not familiar with the Ram Prime.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012930411/
 
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Ok. It happened again. The one on the right with the blue circle is the one that didn't fire. The gun is 20+ years old. I feel like my firing pin spring may need replacing. Thoughts?
 
View attachment 162162 Ok. It happened again. The one on the right with the blue circle is the one that didn't fire. The gun is 20+ years old. I feel like my firing pin spring may need replacing. Thoughts?
Which is what I suspected and recommended in my previous post. Springs are cheap so that would be my next step...replace it. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
It looks like there is a circular scrape mark across the WINCHESTER on the right. That indicates to me that the brass was too long, did the bolt close harder than normal on that one?. I use a Lyman Chamber checker on every round that I reload. It tells me if I've got a round that has one part of it that is making the brass too long. If I find one, I pull the bullet, check length with a dial caliper, trim it if needed, etc etc etc.
 
Which is what I suspected and recommended in my previous post. Springs are cheap so that would be my next step...replace it. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
One reason why I never put a rifle away with the bolt cocked. I always let the tension off the spring.
 
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