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30 NOSLER OR 300 PRC

I think a lot of guys freak out when the primer pocket is looser than the first time seating a primer, I like to run closer to the top so I expect to see a little movement but they still hold the primers fine, don't have to glue them in so I'm GTG.
 
I think a lot of guys freak out when the primer pocket is looser than the first time seating a primer, I like to run closer to the top so I expect to see a little movement but they still hold the primers fine, don't have to glue them in so I'm GTG.
That is my experience as well. They get extremely easy to seat before they get loose enough to drop one.
 
So instead of reading all 13 pages.. can somebody give us a "Cliff Notes" of which ones better:D
 
Frank's doing the 2900 F.PS. in a 32" tube and "honest" 2906
Dave Tooley is running 2825 with the 212's with 72. something of h4831 I couldn't find his barrel length but I believe he said that it as a 22-24" 9tw tube he took to Africa last spring. Factory 225 ammo has been running over the 2850 which is 75.2+- of H1000. That was also out of a 24" test barrel. The 230smk has less barring surface than the 212. If that 230 follows the other 27 caliber ogive bullets you should see 50-70fps more speed than similar weight projectiles at the same pressure. I have shot the 6.5/150's and the 7mm 183's so far. same charge weight with the same rifle; 6.5 147's 2830. 6.5 150's 2895 but wouldn't stabilize at my conditions 10 degrees 15' above sealevel baro 30.03
7mm 180 smk(.66bc) 2845fps 183 2919fps 29 degrees 15'above sealevel 30.32 baro. The 183's in the 9.125tw won't group well enough to switch to them in my conditions I normally shoot in. An 8.5 or more twist is needed for my typical negative DA # of -2200 for chance to switch. Knowing this I have an 8tw 30 cal and 8tw 7(actually a gain tw 8.35 to 8) on order. If you can convince your smith to put a tapered lap into your barrel you can see up 125fps gains over typical speeds. just make sure your tapering it the right direction. And before you say well so and so would know this. You pay for it in shorter barrel life which most also know about
 
I think a lot of guys freak out when the primer pocket is looser than the first time seating a primer, I like to run closer to the top so I expect to see a little movement but they still hold the primers fine, don't have to glue them in so I'm GTG.
I find this especially true if I use 91/2 vs others. They are about .0005 smaller than 210/215's which are about a .0005 smaller than cci's.
 
It's pretty straight forward to me, if your shooting factory ammo in a factory rifle then it breaks down like this,

30 Nosler - a slightly faster .300 win mag with limited & expensive ammo options designed for hunting and chambered in hunting rifles.

300 PRC - solely focused on long range shooting with heavy for caliber high BC bullets chambered in heavy target rifles.

If handloading for a custom rifle then flip a coin as the performance will be nearly identical when loaded to the same COAL with the same bullets and powder and a rifles designed for the intended purpose.
 
It's pretty straight forward to me, if your shooting factory ammo in a factory rifle then it breaks down like this,

30 Nosler - a slightly faster .300 win mag with limited & expensive ammo options designed for hunting and chambered in hunting rifles.

300 PRC - solely focused on long range shooting with heavy for caliber high BC bullets chambered in heavy target rifles.

If handloading for a custom rifle then flip a coin as the performance will be nearly identical when loaded to the same COAL with the same bullets and powder and a rifles designed for the intended purpose.
I agree. 300 prc will be the absolute way to go in a moderately priced factory rifle with factory chamber & factory ammo.
Seems like 300 prc is an easy route. I think more could be had from 30 nosler or 300nm but there will be more tinkering involved.
 
If you look at Hornady 212 eldx vs 30 Nosler 210 LRAB. They are very close. Hornady has 24" test barrel and Nosler 26".
 
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