22-250 Sierra MK for Varmints

I bought an unfired 22-250 from an estate almost a year ago. Thought I would load some MKs to go to our antelope unit to kill any coyotes we find to increase the upcoming antelope birth rate. I've been using one of my .257 Wby's, but want to save a little on components and wear. I received a box of 500 52gr MKs with the rifle and since I have them I'll shoot them. I bought 200 Nosler cases just need info on powder experience for this bullet. Thanks in advance.
I got my best velocity and accuracy with 4895 and 50 grain bullets-3,800 fps . H380 does not work with my rifle 'cause i get pressure signs quickly .
 
50 gr Hornady sst and 41 gr H 380 works for me. Out of a Remington varmint 26 inch barrel. Best group was 5 shots into a dime at 100 yards.
 

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Shot four test loads this morning. Sierra 52gr MK, Varget, Nosler brass, 210M primers, never fired Ruger 77 from an estate sale @100 yards. Two groups of five recorded .900" one at .950". The first group was identical load as the .950 group,but used it to sight in. I'm encouraged with the performance and should improve with epoxy bedding and freefloat. Will load some with H4895 as well.
 
Shot four test loads this morning. Sierra 52gr MK, Varget, Nosler brass, 210M primers, never fired Ruger 77 from an estate sale @100 yards. Two groups of five recorded .900" one at .950". The first group was identical load as the .950 group,but used it to sight in. I'm encouraged with the performance and should improve with epoxy bedding and freefloat. Will load some with H4895 as well.

Free float and bed may not help with the M77, I just did the same thing on a tang safety m77 243 with a bull barrel and the groups got worse by 50%. I've always heard that was a possibility but this was the first time I've actually experienced it. You may not want to mess with it if you are getting those kinds of results with barely any load development. I'm going to try adding pillars to this rifle and if it doesn't improve I'll be bedding the whole barrel again and add the pressure point back in.
 
Try some 52 grain or 55 grain Berger bullets.
they shoot really great . And they make coyotes , bobcats and foxes do really crazy acrobatic moves. I've been shooting a 243 Winchester lately with either a 87 grain Berger or a Hornady 87 grain V Max . And get the bang / flop reaction.
 
This has not been my experience, I didn't like the way that bullet performed on the half dozen coyotes I shot with it before I switched. Sure it killed them, but on several of them it wasn't a quick kill on anything but a broadside shot.

We talk about this again 🤔

I agree with you @dmr400.

A match projectile is not designed to expand or perform in the same manner as a game projectile, yes they will kill but your shot placement has to be spot on with a head or heart shot otherwise your going to inflict suffering on the animal!

There are a heap of very good & cheap game projectiles around for the .224 between 40r-55gr like Sierra game king #1365K @ $199AU for 1000 as well as more expensive ones that become a bit cheaper in bulk 1000 lots like Nosler ballistic tips.

Pretty much any projectile can be made to be accurate but its how they perform for the intended use is what counts.

Personally I would leave the SMK's for the range & look at something else.

Just my 2 cents here!
 
Free float and bed may not help with the M77, I just did the same thing on a tang safety m77 243 with a bull barrel and the groups got worse by 50%. I've always heard that was a possibility but this was the first time I've actually experienced it. You may not want to mess with it if you are getting those kinds of results with barely any load development. I'm going to try adding pillars to this rifle and if it doesn't improve I'll be bedding the whole barrel again and add the pressure point back in.

Ruger M77's do respond well to bedding, if it is done with attention to the unique features of the M77 action. Pillar bedding, in particular, is worthwhile. Properly cut pillars are available from Brownells here:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ii-bedding-pillars-sku080000007-357-1657.aspx

Brownells also sells piloted counterbores that make installing the pillars much easier:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...s/292-ruger-pilot-sku080000018-8011-1668.aspx
 
Following the pillar bedding process, attention to action screw torque is also important. Tighten ONLY the front action screw until it is very tight. Snug the rear action screw down only until it seats to the stock/pillar and stop. Tighten the middle action screw enough so it will not loosen on its own and no more than that.

Over tightening the middle and rear screws can distort the action enough to cause accuracy problems. The critical screw for seating the action in the bedding is the front (angled) screw.
 
Racer, I bedded and freefloated my grandson's 77 heavy barrel in 25-06. It is now sub-1/2 MOA out to 500. If this 22-250 accuracy falls with bedding, I will create a new pressure point.
 
Racer, I bedded and freefloated my grandson's 77 heavy barrel in 25-06. It is now sub-1/2 MOA out to 500. If this 22-250 accuracy falls with bedding, I will create a new pressure point.
You guys might think I am daft but I use a 1/2 inch bit in the guard screws and full-length bed the whole action and the shank of the barrel. I put tape on the bottom of the barrel so only the sides of the barrel are a tight fit. Stuff the guard screw holes full of glass. I do this with all actions. How can you get more perfect? I don,t know. You sure can.t compress the glass pillars. Why go to all of the work of aluminum pillars? I guess if it makes you feel warm inside. I use piloted bits from grizzly.If you use a regular metal bit it will create so much pull you may split the stock.
 
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