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New Tikka Not Grouping Well

One additional idea:
Check to make sure the barreled action is seated securely in the recoil lug in the stock. If that's not solid, you'll never shoot great groups.
If you have taken it apart, and put it back together...this could be the problem. Need to get the receiver seated properly on the lug.
 
I just recently purchased a Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech in 6.5 PRC and mounted a VX-6HD 3-18x50 with Unknown Munitions scope rings on it. Torqued everything down to the right specs and took it to the range.

First 3 shot group (after setting scope) using 147gr. ELD-M was .5" @ 100 yards from a Magpul Bi-pod and a rear bag on the shooting bench. I was content and for the majority of my hunting that would be sufficient.

It got dark on me so I came back the following weekend and shot some more. My shot groups were averaging 1.25" to 1.5". I ran to the gun shop and grabbed a box of the 143gr. ELD-X to see if they would shoot better. I averaged 2" groups with the ELD-X and noticed some stringing up and to the right. From the research I have done, it seems like the barrel warming could've caused this. (Although, I normally wait +5 minutes between shots to let it cool off)

I also started to think the bipod was the issue so I verified that the barrel was free floating when the bipod was loaded. That did not seem to be the problem.

Ultimately I swapped to a lead sled to take the Bi-pod out of the equation. I cleaned my gun and reshot both types of ammo with the ELD-X averaging 1.5" groups, and the ELD-M averaging slightly less than 1" groups, but having occasional flyers about 2" from the point of aim. I saw slight improvement, but still wasn't where I want to be.

So far I have 54 rounds through the rifle, and am not very impressed with the accuracy. I intend to try the 156 gr. Bergers, but have not been able to find them locally. I am not currently able to reload, so I would like to find a factory round that is at least MOA or better until I get setup where I can reload myself.

I am fairly new to the long range shooting so I figured I would ask those that are more experienced than myself. Any advice or ideas, regardless of how simple are appreciated.

Thanks
I have yet to find a Tikka T3 or T3x in any caliber that will not shoot sub MOA using good factory or reloaded ammo. I have shot several out of the box in 270, 308 and 30-06 and using either Sig Sauer or Federal Premium ammo the first shots out of the barrel were sub MOA. If you are shooting good ammo and having issues the first thing I would check is the scope mounting and the scope itself. Personally I have not found ELD M or ELD X bullets or ammo to be all that accurate. Try something else and if your problem persists and is not scope related then borescope the barrel and make sure that the barrel is floated and not touching.
 
I'll give him $501 Bob.
Season 3 Wall GIF by The Simpsons
 
So my daughter got a Tikka 3X 270 Win with synthetic stock that I could could not get to shoot consistently. We fired over 50 rounds through it trying to find a factory load. I found that the barrel was not free floated so fiexed that, pillared the action and glass bedded it. I then torqued the bottom metal to 35 in lb. Went from shooting over 1.5 MOA to less than .75 MOA. Good Luck.
 
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All the bases have been covered here, but I'll add that the last 3 brand new Tikkas I've had my hands on- the stock bolts were loose- about 25 inch-lbs.

This may be the problem, especially as it shot great, then loosened up. Check the stock bolts.

Also, in my experience some rifles need to be held tighter, some a bit looser. If you have been shooting your .30-06 and getting great results you are probably dialed in with it. The PRC just may take a little more shooting to find out how she likes to be held.

I'd check/ torque the stock bolts and let er rip.
 
$5 says there's nothing "wrong" with the rifle.

I'd:
- Disassemble rifle and ensure no anomalies are found.
- Reassemble ensuring proper lug-to-action fit.
- Double check all fasteners (including rings/bases)
- Send Leupold back to Oregon for "fixing" (then sell it upon its return).
- Use Ledsled only as a cruel prank on range rookies.
 
If it's not the scope and scope mounts, and the shooter is doing his job,
As a Tikka builder here is a few odd problems I have found over the years:
1. Loose action screws,
2. After market bolt shroud causing varying trigger pull weights
3. Bolt handle stem had burr in the half moon pocket, causing it to drag on the collar of the firing pin.
4. Loose trigger assemble bolt
6. Trigger shoe pin had burr
7. Firing pin assembly had debris between it and the inside of the Bolt wall causing delayed ignition timing.
 
I'm a big Tikka fan (I have 5). 4 of the 5 were the easiest rifles I ever owned to find good accuracy from. The 5th (a 7mm08) was not. Out of it, with multiple bullets/powder combinations using multiple seating depths/factory loads, it wouldn't shoot better than 21/2 to 3" using the standard magazine limitation on COAL. I used a long action mag and seated bullets .020 of the lands and the same bullet/powder combos instantly shot <3/4", and with 140 BT, regularly shoots one hole groups. Not sure what the issue was, but I'm very glad I stuck with it. I'll give the OP $503:)
 
So my daughter got a Tikka 3X 270 Win with synthetic stock that I could could not get to shoot consistently. We fired over 50 rounds through it trying to find a factory load. I found that the barrel was not free floated so fiexed that, pillared the action and glass bedded it. I then torqued the bottom metal to 35 in lb. Went from shooting over 1.5 MOA to less than .75 MOA. Good Luck.
It's always rewarding to achieve this kind of improvement. Your experience is pretty common among those who are willing to do the work to get it to shoot better.
But I marvel at those whose goal is longer range hunting who buy a Tikka because they are so accurate, but then they settle for 0.75 MOA at 100 yards and are satisfied with it.
Then, whenever it is pointed out that you can do better, you get lectured about how 1 MOA is all you need for hunting.
Well, if 1 MOA is all you need and .75 MOA is better, why is there so much resistance to admitting that 0.5 MOA and less is better.
I do get the argument that you eventually reach a point where it makes no difference on most shots while hunting. But I figure that a rifle that shoots less than 0.5 MOA (especially at ranges beyond 100 yards) diminishes my margin of error and gives me greater confidence and certainty on every shot I choose to take. I'm not going to stick with any brand--not if I know that another brand can and will shoot better.
For many years, you could not do much better than a Tikka for the money, especially if you wanted to keep the weight down. But there are certainly more options today, even for the same price.
 
So my daughter got a Tikka 3X 270 Win with synthetic stock that I could could not get to shoot consistently. We fired over 50 rounds through it trying to find a factory load. I found that the barrel was not free floated so fiexed that, pillared the action and glass bedded it. I then torqued the bottom metal to 35 in lb. Went from shooting over 1.5 MOA to less than .75 MOA. Good Luck.
The .75 MOA was with factory ammo. I hand loaded some 110 Gr Barnes TTSX and a 3 round test created a triangle at 100 yards. To ring out the best accuracy I believe you have to reload and find the load(s) your rifle likes. Each rifle is different.
 
But I marvel at those whose goal is longer range hunting who buy a Tikka because they are so accurate, but then they settle for 0.75 MOA at 100 yards and are satisfied with it.
Then, whenever it is pointed out that you can do better, you get lectured about how 1 MOA is all you need for hunting.
Well, if 1 MOA is all you need and .75 MOA is better, why is there so much resistance to admitting that 0.5 MOA and less is better.
I do get the argument that you eventually reach a point where it makes no difference on most shots while hunting. But I figure that a rifle that shoots less than 0.5 MOA (especially at ranges beyond 100 yards) diminishes my margin of error and gives me greater confidence and certainty on every shot I choose to take. I'm not going to stick with any brand--not if I know that another brand can and will shoot better.
Do you have a hunting rifle that can shoot multiple strings 0.5 MOA or better consistently? How about down range at different distances?
 
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