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Ruger MKII 243's ; school me on Ultralight 20" vs. Standard 22" barrels

98s1lightning

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Joined
Feb 24, 2024
Messages
264
Location
RI
Regarding MKII Ruger 243's.....

Do the Ultralight models in 20" have the same accuracy problems as the old tang safety models did???

I read a lot of complaints on the old model Ultralights not shooting good at all and unhappy buyers

I got to wonder, for my 13 year old, the 20" is more portable, in and out of truck, treestand, blind, thick timber of the Northeast, cuz he aint gonna fill out w upper body strength another 3 or so years.

The 22" once scoped is not a light rifle for a kid

I wonder is the barrel the same contour just shortened on the chamber side, or shortened on the muzzle

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences, much appreciated!

I like 22" for center fire cartridges 30cal and lower, but this is a rifle for us to share and ultimately for him to get to carry and make memories on
 
Leaning towards the 20" strongly

Been measuring and talking it over w him on how easy it is to dip muzzle into dirt/snow/damage crown

Anybody out there happily toting their 20" MkII?
 
My dad had a 77MKII Ultralight back in the day. I had a MKII 22" 22-250.
Barrel on the UL was definitely a proper UL/featherweight contour., it shot jus fine.

Most of the accuracy issues with Rugers went away when they started making their own barrels.

Get the shorter lighter gun itll be much nicer to handle .

Thats my vote
 
My 77 Mark II Stainless .243 with the factory fiberglas 'boat paddle' stock shoots Federal 75 grain varmint loads and Federal Premium 100 gr deer loads well under 1" at 100 yards. My 77UL in .243 with tang safety was a beautiful little rifle but shot (corrected!) 1.5" groups at best...I sold it after I got the MkII.
 
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I read a few places 1:9 twist on the MkII's anyway

I assume both the 20" and 22" MKII are 1:9

Many reading cite 100gr bullets shooting well in the rifles.
I would most likely go for the Federal Fusion 95gr load, or a similar bullet 95-105gr w protected point

Don't have a need for LR bullets, just want to shoot heavy for caliber and protected point
 
I had a bonefide night mare with the ultra light 243 Winchester Ruger Mk II. I prefer the standard length sporter barrel.

Keys to the Kingdom on Ruger Tang safety and Mark II accuracy are simple and straight forward.

The center screw should only be tightened no tighter than you can tighten with your finger nail, I can not stress this enough. You can completely remove the center screw as the purpose is to adjust the height of the front of the trigger guard. If you pull the center of the action down with the center screw, your accuracy will be helter skelter and difficult to impossible to tune.

Next, free float the magazine box between the floor plate and the action. Again, the mag box should never put stress on the action. Drop the floor plate, stick your finger up in the mag well and try and wiggle the mag box. The fix, use a file on the bottom of the mag box or a belt sander.

Bed the action and freefloat the barrel before you ever fire a shot.

On the old tang safety rifles, push a tight patch down the barrel, if you feel tight and loose spots, replace the barrel or get rid of the gun. Of course, you can spend a lot of time and money trying to get a poor barrel to shoot well. Bullets with more bearing surface will work the best, but it is a Wild Guess as to what will work.

Custom barrels on Ruger 77 Mk II shoot extremely well. I have had custom 308s with Hart barrels and a Ruger 77 Mark II with a 26" Brux #5 contour in 6.5x47 Lapua that shoots bug holes.

The young kids in our family get started with Thompson Contender Carbines in 30/30 and or 7/30 with reduced loads. These rifles are very light and easy for a youngster to swing, and every youngster has shot them well. Remington Reduced loads in 30/30 kill like a bolt of lightning.


The break open action is also easy for the youngster to manipulate, and the Triggers on the TC's are adjustable to very light. I have one young nephew. When he was 5 years old, he sat in my lap in the deer stand with his TC in 30/30. He shot 5 does his first year, plus a bob cat. He wanted to shoot every squirrel and Blue Jay that he saw, we got to teach him some rules on sportsmanship. He is in his late 20s now, still hunts with that TC carbine.

Youngsters have weak fingers, remember this on the trigger pull. They also need a very short length of pull, so have a sacrificial stock that you can cut for their length of pull. Eye relief is one heck of an issue for a youngster, set the rifle up for the youngster where they can throw the gun up to the shoulder where they have complete field of view without "hunting" for the cross hair or focus.

We tried the Rossi break opens, two out of 5 were acceptable in accuracy, triggers are a real can of worms, unlike the Thompson Contenders with easily adjustable triggers.

OP, 13-year-olds are not the same in stature and strength in their frames. A less-than-max load will allow them to master the rifle, provided you accommodate their length of pull. We used a load of 36g of IMR 4895 with a Sierra 85g BTHP for deer for this 14-year-old neice, which she shot very well. Her dad shoots right out of the back of his garage, so she shoots often, gaining experience and confidence. We did put a Gentry muzzle break on the rifle, which allowed her to shoot with incredible accuracy.

The first experience with a rifle for a youngster is something they never forget, so make it a good one regarding gun fit, trigger pull, easy target acquisition, and recoil. Two nephews got Model 7's with Gentry muzzle breaks on them in 243 as they got a couple of years older where they could handle the rifle easier, but we did cut the plastic stocks to their length of pull.
 
I had a bonefide night mare with the ultra light 243 Winchester Ruger Mk II. I prefer the standard length sporter barrel.

Keys to the Kingdom on Ruger Tang safety and Mark II accuracy are simple and straight forward.

The center screw should only be tightened no tighter than you can tighten with your finger nail, I can not stress this enough. You can completely remove the center screw as the purpose is to adjust the height of the front of the trigger guard. If you pull the center of the action down with the center screw, your accuracy will be helter skelter and difficult to impossible to tune.

Next, free float the magazine box between the floor plate and the action. Again, the mag box should never put stress on the action. Drop the floor plate, stick your finger up in the mag well and try and wiggle the mag box. The fix, use a file on the bottom of the mag box or a belt sander.

Bed the action and freefloat the barrel before you ever fire a shot.

On the old tang safety rifles, push a tight patch down the barrel, if you feel tight and loose spots, replace the barrel or get rid of the gun. Of course, you can spend a lot of time and money trying to get a poor barrel to shoot well. Bullets with more bearing surface will work the best, but it is a Wild Guess as to what will work.

Custom barrels on Ruger 77 Mk II shoot extremely well. I have had custom 308s with Hart barrels and a Ruger 77 Mark II with a 26" Brux #5 contour in 6.5x47 Lapua that shoots bug holes.

The young kids in our family get started with Thompson Contender Carbines in 30/30 and or 7/30 with reduced loads. These rifles are very light and easy for a youngster to swing, and every youngster has shot them well. Remington Reduced loads in 30/30 kill like a bolt of lightning.


The break open action is also easy for the youngster to manipulate, and the Triggers on the TC's are adjustable to very light. I have one young nephew. When he was 5 years old, he sat in my lap in the deer stand with his TC in 30/30. He shot 5 does his first year, plus a bob cat. He wanted to shoot every squirrel and Blue Jay that he saw, we got to teach him some rules on sportsmanship. He is in his late 20s now, still hunts with that TC carbine.

Youngsters have weak fingers, remember this on the trigger pull. They also need a very short length of pull, so have a sacrificial stock that you can cut for their length of pull. Eye relief is one heck of an issue for a youngster, set the rifle up for the youngster where they can throw the gun up to the shoulder where they have complete field of view without "hunting" for the cross hair or focus.

We tried the Rossi break opens, two out of 5 were acceptable in accuracy, triggers are a real can of worms, unlike the Thompson Contenders with easily adjustable triggers.

OP, 13-year-olds are not the same in stature and strength in their frames. A less-than-max load will allow them to master the rifle, provided you accommodate their length of pull. We used a load of 36g of IMR 4895 with a Sierra 85g BTHP for deer for this 14-year-old neice, which she shot very well. Her dad shoots right out of the back of his garage, so she shoots often, gaining experience and confidence. We did put a Gentry muzzle break on the rifle, which allowed her to shoot with incredible accuracy.

The first experience with a rifle for a youngster is something they never forget, so make it a good one regarding gun fit, trigger pull, easy target acquisition, and recoil. Two nephews got Model 7's with Gentry muzzle breaks on them in 243 as they got a couple of years older where they could handle the rifle easier, but we did cut the plastic stocks to their length of pull.
My first shot with a centerfire rifle was with my dad's pre-64 M70 in '06, shooting Frankford Arsenal Match Target ball at a soda can about 25 yards away at the country dump in north Louisiana when I was 14. I hit the can with the irons, offhand, but the recoil was stout to this small for his age boy. I fell in love with the roar immediately. Still have that rifle, killed my first deer with it, and still love it to this day.

I agree, something smaller is a better choice for young 'uns to shoot from a rest and for their first deer. But, back in the mid-70s firing an '06 gave a boy bragging rights with his scrawny friends as we swapped stories over the latest issues of Sports Afield, Field & Stream, and Outdoor Life in the school library after lunch on rainy days.
 
I purchased a Ruger Mk II 243 with the pencil 20 inch barrel and the trigger was horrible! 5-6 lbs. Purchased the Timney trigger kit and while it's a little gunsmithing to install it, the pull went down to 2.7 lbs. The little rifle shoots lights out good!! 1 inch groups at 200 yds. Very fun rifle!! I'm shooting factory ammo by Federal with the 95 grain Berger bullets. My daughter is 6 and shoots it off a triclawps cradle and does really well on steel. No bad experience at all with the light barrel or being in accurate. It's a fine rifle!
 
Someone mentioned the matte stainless (Hawkeyes) rusting easily, I see many rifles for sale used that are stained brown w rust???
Some have small rust , I'm going to call them pimples, like small blotches where the rust starts, others have entire action turning brown.

Then reviews of guys in Alaska w saltwater environment saying they hold up great.

Talk about mixed reviews!!!!

I'd go for a blue rifle if the stainless is that lame.

It looks like the early MkII's are polished stainless.
 
I think people mistake 'stain-less' with 'stain-free.' All stainless steel will rust, given enough time and exposure, but stainless is more rust-resistant than chrome moly. Anyone who has a knife made from, say, 5160, will see the blade stain/darken over time... often within 20 to 30 minutes of use! Stainless won't do this, but depending on the type of stainless steel used, it may be more or less susceptible to rust. I have a can of silicone spray and use that along with a silicone cloth to wipe off all of my stainless rifles and haven't had a problem. If I were going to a constantly rainy area to hunt, I'd break out the paste wax, pull the action and bottom metal from the stock, and give everything a good polished wax job. Having grown up in the Gulf South surrounded by swamp and marsh, I also use RIG grease on all of my blued firearms.
 

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