School me on switch barrel setup

specter29

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Currently looking at doing a switch barrel setup on a long action. I'm looking at the Nucleus or Bighorn TL3 is one better than the other for a hunting rifle. First barrels will be a 280 AI and a 6mm of some sort.

Please let me know your thoughts
 
Be shure to choose two calibers with the same or larger bolt face design.
 
How do the barrels headspace with the west texas?
They use a shouldered barrel and are headspaced to your receiver, you have to send the receiver and barrels to them to do the work. Or you can do a barrel nut setup like the Savage/Remage for switching a barrel out with a prefit.
 
They use a shouldered barrel and are headspaced to your receiver, you have to send the receiver and barrels to them to do the work. Or you can do a barrel nut setup like the Savage/Remage for switching a barrel out with a prefit.
A switch Lug is not necessary for either action as accurate pre-fit shouldered barrels are available to just screw on but if you really wanted to go this way i would look into the Bar-loc system from ARC. Will work on either action but a bit better suited for the Nucleus. Multiple interchangeable bolt faces are available for either action so you don't really have to worry about cartridge choice other than magazine length. I personally would go with the Bighorn TL3 as it is a stainless steel receiver and comes DLC form the factory where the ARC Nucleus is a chromemoly receiver that I believe is parkerized with a DLC bolt
 
You sir are correct, I was just answering his question.

OP,
The old school way of switch barrel with shouldered barrels is to have whatever barrels you want headspaced to the same receiver. You had to disassemble the rifle (at least remove bolt and stock), use a barrel vise and action wrench to line up the barrels and torque them down (probably to a witness/index mark). Or use a barrel nut like a Savage, these are popular because a man can swap pre-fit ready to go barrels with little equipment. Now with the switchlug or barloc you just pop a screw loose and unscrew the barrel then screw on the other. Check headspace and go on about your business.
 
I've always wondered if there was any problem with the barrel or brake timing, when using prefit shouldered barrels?
 
I'd go with a shouldered barrel if you plan on swapping back and forth pretty regularly. I've spent a LOT of time with Savages and I really like the barrel nut system. The problem is that it's just slower than swapping out shouldered barrels. I drilled and tapped most of my barrel nuts to take a set screw so that I could "lock" the nut in place once I had my headspace set. Then I could pull the barrel on and off without having to worry about the barrel nut wrench at all. I just used a barrel vise clamped to the bed of my truck to hold the barrel and a port entry action wrench to take it off. Depending on the stock I didn't even have to remove the action to swap barrels.

I have a Nucleus action off getting two barrels fitted now and I'll probably have a couple more done up down the road. If you just find one smith to to do all your barrel work, then you should only have to send him the action one time. Once the smith has all the measurements off of your action they can just cut any future barrels to the same specs with no issue.
 
All 3 of mine are shouldered on Win Model 70 stainless actions for hunting, 2 barrels per rifle set-up.
My comp rifles are shouldered barrels on pinned Tubbs' .250" recoil lugs, 3 barrels per rifle set-up, same chamberings but different lengths.
Never tried or used a nut set-up, I don't even use an action wrench or barrel vice anymore, just screw them on and tighten with the rifle held between the knees. Never had one come loose.

Cheers.
 
Not on Surgeon and Bighorn actions. Variance between actions is only a few degrees so engravings will lineup. Also there are many high quality Self timing brakes available


I've always wondered if there was any problem with the barrel or brake timing, when using prefit shouldered barrels?
 
The switchlug on a tl3 or sr3 is a great option. The great part is how easy it is to swap bolt faces, making it easy to go from standard to magnum with same bolt. I havent looked into the barloc though. I am building a TL3 with a switchlug, still gathering parts.
 
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