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Scope Mount Tough vs Weight

I've read posts that the Talley lightweights ring mounts can crack.
I have used Talley LW on 3 rifles of my own and 2 for a friend and never had a problem with cracking.
From the posts I have read the cracking that you mentioned are from over torquing and not a defective product.
All manufacturers have a recommendation on torque values and if someone decides to tighten it to foot pounds instead of inch pounds you can't blame the product.
 
I like one piece mounts with a bubble level. I've had good luck with Audere Adversus Gen 2 Scope Mounts and the M-Brace Mount. Both have pita bubble levels.

Also hard to beat IMO, is the 6 screw NF rings with the bubble ring cap.
 
6061 is vastly inferior to 7075 aluminum and that's why all the chinesium parts and brands selling to the lowest price point use it. A lot of good domestic manufacturers have been mentioned already. I'll add Warne to that list.
They are made in the UM shop….Idaho, I think.

I bought them. They have a strong following on Rokslide.
 
6061 is vastly inferior to 7075 aluminum and that's why all the chinesium parts and brands selling to the lowest price point use it. A lot of good domestic manufacturers have been mentioned already. I'll add Warne to that list.
Don't agree with this broad statement, at least for quality American made parts from 6061, such as Hawkins Precision. While it's true that 7075 is a stronger alloy, it doesn't mean that quality 6061 is not sufficient.
 

That silver pin.

It is there because a Tikka base is flat on flat with a small bolt torque trying to hold it. The alternative is using adhesive to attach it.
The pre 2004 base does state "no recoil lug".
But they also mention that you may need metric screws.

As for the flat on flat attachment...

None of my Savage or Weatherby rifles have a place for a recoil lug for the scope base.
Aside for some really big boomers, I don't really see the need for one.

If you want to upgrade the attachment, you can go with the #8 screws over the #6 screws.
Of course you need to drill and tap your receiver to accept the #8 screws.
 
I use the Talley one piece light weights on a couple of my browning Xbolt's and haven't had a problem.
I don't fly anywhere to hunt but I have hunted hard with them and never had a change in zero.
It will be in a well padded case and you should check zero when arriving whichever setup you choose.
I use talley's as well on 3 x bolts and a half dozen other rifles. I am not gentle on my rifles and have never had a problem. I do use a dab of permatex top and bottom on assembly as advised by my gunsmith
 
If you want to upgrade the attachment, you can go with the #8 screws over the #6 screws.
Of course you need to drill and tap your receiver to accept the #8 screws

That's exactly what my wife and I did to our "push feed" Model 70's. Really cheap insurance to help prevent a scope problem when hunting…..well, it may keep the scope on the rifle! 😂 memtb
 
That's exactly what my wife and I did to our "push feed" Model 70's. Really cheap insurance to help prevent a scope problem when hunting…..well, it may keep the scope on the rifle! 😂 memtb
I'm using the #6 screws on all my rifles. Including the Weatherby Magnums.

Clean the receiver and base with denatured alcohol. A drop of the green Loctite (used to bed bearing races) between the screws.
Purple Loctite (222) on the screws. And torque.

Haven't had an issue in 40 years.
 
I'm using the #6 screws on all my rifles. Including the Weatherby Magnums.

Clean the receiver and base with denatured alcohol. A drop of the green Loctite (used to bed bearing races) between the screws.
Purple Loctite (222) on the screws. And torque.

Haven't had an issue in 40 years.


I use Blue on everything…..base screws, base to receiver, scope saddles/rings & saddle/ring screws! Been doing that about as long as you. And, like you……haven't had an issue yet!


Pertaining to the screws….a slightly larger screw can't hurt! As stated….it's just additional insurance! memtb
 
For those of you who put Loctite or epoxy between the base and the gun, what is the secret to popping that off if you want to remove the base?
 
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