Sharpening Knives in the Field

I'm a recovering knife addict...I also did a knife sharpening service for a while. That included sharpening some hundreds of China steel gas station things. I have 0-1, A-2, CPM 154, 3V, Elmax, AUS 8, AUS 10, laminated steel, then the absurd amount of axes I own in various axe steels...Anyway, when processing game animals, like 6-8 deer with the camp group I noticed all of my knife steels dulled to the same degree in the same amount of time, but A-2 steel has been the easiest to bring back to razor sharp and lasts as long as the "super steels" My EDC Elmax blade might as well be 1055 as long as it holds an edge.

With all that said, I firmly believe in the edge geometry and quality heat treat over any new fangled, latest & greatest Super steel. Pretty much how the firearms industry keeps coming out with newer and better cartridges...
 
A steel is all that is needed when a proper edge was on the knife to start with. Unless you are a hair hacker, if you are cutting hair you probably need one of the replaceable blade knives. Cut the hide from the inside after the first poke, your sharp knife stays that way. I've gutted and skinned several mule deer and an elk with a 3 blade Old Timer using just a steel, no issues and no sharpening.
 
Brathany said:
Anyway, when processing game animals, like 6-8 deer with the camp group I noticed all of my knife steels dulled to the same degree in the same amount of time,
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I would never think of touching up a Dave McCrosky knife blade after 6-8 deer, no need! Some things you just have to see to believe.

A good friend skinned 300 Beaver with his Dave McCrosky trapper knife in one season before he touched it up.

Heat treat and cryo....
 
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I've carried some expensive lightweight fixed blades and they're nice but they eventually need sharpened. I got a havalon and carry a couple extra blades, it's lighter than carrying my lightweight fixed blades and a Worksharp sharpener (which I use a lot just no longer in my pack).

I also have the Argali belt with a sharpener built into the buckle. I'd go this route if carrying the non-replaceable blade. I also have a few Knives of Alaska knives and one (or more) of them came with a little diamond sharpening stick, thingy. I'd carry that before sandpaper. Another option would be one of those cheap pull through ceramic sharpeners. I 100% would not put sand paper to my blades without some sort of backing to make sure it's getting a good angle on the blade.
 
dfanonymous said:
Nope, that's right.

That was my point in post number 14.

I feel people who want to sharpen in the field with a s90v either is just dogging it in bone from inexperience or just want to "touch it up" just because they rather play around then getting to work.
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Sometimes it's nice to give the back a rest before throwing that heavy back on and going back up the mountain (as it always seems there is a need to go uphill).
 
chav0_12 said:
Sometimes it's nice to give the back a rest before throwing that heavy back on and going back up the mountain (as it always seems there is a need to go uphill).
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Haha.
I wouldn't know. My break is for water/liquid IV after cleaning up. Then one more after packing camp.

It's because I do all butchering in one process. It's for a few reasons:

On elk, it's because I'm trying to avoid bone sour. Especially during the day, and especially in certain states that have hotter seasons.

For a deer sized meat, I honestly take the whole thing out in one go. I have less issue going hard with the weight and more with wasting time going back and forth.
 
crazymonkey said:
Just buy a havalon or outdoor edge replaceable blade knife.
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This is my general thought process as well - small, light, easy to change blade if something happens, NBD if it gets lost/dropped/borrowed/etc. I've frequently gifted a Havalon to new guys the first time they clean a deer. At this point in my life I've probably bought 50 of the things - scattered between tool boxes, floorboards, shoved into old boots, you know how cheap knives can travel 🤣

VinceMule said:
Today, I use the McCrosky knives, with which I can skin and butcher six or more deer without the blade getting dull.
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But I also agree with this - I was gifted a Winkler Blue Ridge and it def didn't need to be sharpened after a single animal. More like once after the season was over. I don't really like big fixed blades knives, just not my thing, but if you like them then get a good one.
 
I've been running Cold steel knives in the field for years. I never have to re-sharpen in the field. The San Mai Master hunter and my new SRK are both shaving sharp to start with and don't really sharpen that hard if I want to touch them up. A great but cheap alternative is their carbon steel, which seems to be nearly as good and is cheap as far as a decent knife goes.
 

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