Sharpening Knives in the Field

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

At home I have the Ken Oniom edition Worksharp. After the Ex fine belt I use a razor strop. Shaving sharp. Got by for many years with Spyderco tri angle sharpener. Might have to try the Lanski sharpener. Just carried the Spyderco because I had it. Mine is the old one in the cloth case.

The Spyderco works GREAT at home. I usually put it on a TV dinner food tray and sharpen while watching the TV.
The Lansky is small and light to carry in a backpack. We just keep them in case we need to sharpen (touch up) a knife. We always carry several knives so when field dressing we always have a sharp knife. Say if you are shooting several animals you may need to touch up a blade. You won't carry your main Knife Sharpening Kit.

https://www.lansky.com/sharpeners/pocket-sharpeners.html?page=1

 

[Critter Picker]

S90V is a whole different ball game. But staying away from bone is just common sense.

 

[Critter Picker]

The Spyderco works GREAT at home. I usually put it on a TV dinner food tray and sharpen while watching the TV.
The Lansky is small and light to carry in a backpack. We just keep them in case we need to sharpen (touch up) a knife. We always carry several knives so when field dressing we always have a sharp knife. Say if you are shooting several animals you may need to touch up a blade. You won't carry your main Knife Sharpening Kit.

https://www.lansky.com/sharpeners/pocket-sharpeners.html?page=1

That blade medic looks really handy.

 

[Hand Skills]

Rub some 120grit Silicon Carbide lapping compound into the back of your belt. Weighs nothing and makes an aggressive strop if ever need a touch up is needed

I learned this trick from Phil Wilson, he's a sportsman and a knife maker known for pushing the envelope with ultra high carbon steels like s90v/s110.

 

[Country Bumpkin]

S90V is a whole different ball game. But staying away from bone is just common sense.

I've done essentially zero research on the metallurgy of knife blades. Can you please expand on this?
Thank you.

 

[VinceMule]

Have any of you tried any of the knives made with Magnacut steel, supposed to be the latest and greatest.

 

[Critter Picker]

I've done essentially zero research on the metallurgy of knife blades. Can you please expand on this?
Thank you.

S90v is a stainless steel that is the AR500 of stainless steel. Very wear resistant. Also very hard to sharpen,but once sharp,stays that way.

If I'm wrong here anyone can jump in . This is the way I understand it.

 

[Rotten]

The type of steel will not be any better than any other steel if the knife maker can not heat treat and temper it correctly.
I think a lot of overseas manufacturing will mark their knives with certain steel when in fact they are probably just plain 416 or 304 ss.
With out a brenell hardness tester and a spark testing how would the average buyer know? My bark river knife made from A2 tool steel can get through skinning a whole elk and quartering before I need to hone it if I use a scalpel to cut through the hide first. It's been much better than the case and buck knives I used in the past. I have had 1 knife made from some super steel that was very hard to sharpen And I didn't really care for it that much. It took too long sharpen in the field compared to 1090 or A2 that just needed to be ran across a honing stone a few times.
But some people may like them just buy it from a quality knife maker. Just my opinion

 

[Hand Skills]

Have any of you tried any of the knives made with Magnacut steel, supposed to be the latest and greatest.

Hey Vince!

I had a custom semi-skinner made that came out around RC63.

Really nice steel to work with - grinds a lot easier than S90V/S110V. I think this is due to the finer grain structure and smaller carbides. Sharpens a whole lot easier than ultra high carbon steels like S90V/S110V.

Edge retention is pretty good, not to the same level as S90V, but I've found S90V and S110V prone to chipping (especially at low sharpening angles).

My take on it so far is that (when properly heat treated) Magnacut achieves a great balance of properties. It doesn't excel in any one attribute, other than maybe corrosion resistance - it is almost immune to corrosion.

 

[VinceMule]

Most people buy the best of the cheap stuff, in which case they love to "touch up" their blade regularly, and those knives have their place.

Today, I use the McCrosky knives, with which I can skin and butcher six or more deer without the blade getting dull.

Rotten makes a very valid point. Heat treatment plus several cryo freezes change the molecular structure of the steel. Dedicated artisans have some incredible working blades out there. Good looks are nice, but I want the tool to keep doing its job!

Check out the McCrosky elk skinner. This knife works so efficiently in the field, I bought every knife he makes. The elk skinner does it all. Some things you just have to experience to believe. My uncle was a taxidermist, and I grew up skinning deer heads, fish, and ducks.

 

[dfanonymous]

S90v is a stainless steel that is the AR500 of stainless steel. Very wear resistant. Also very hard to sharpen,but once sharp,stays that way.

If I'm wrong here anyone can jump in . This is the way I understand it.

Nope, that's right.

That was my point in post number 14.

I feel people who want to sharpen in the field with a s90v either is just dogging it in bone from inexperience or just want to "touch it up" just because they rather play around then getting to work.

 

[Rotten]

Woops my bad my bark river is actually 154cm not A2.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

Eventually might snag the Worksharp field sharpener but I thought it might work to just take like 800 grit sandpaper instead to save some weight. Is this a dumb idea? Was also considering just bringing one of my diamond plates.

BUCK sells lightweight steels. Just to dress up your edge. https://www.buckknives.com/product/edgetek-sharpening-steel-10/?sku=97081-B

 

[sp6x6]

I always have a sharp folder on me tit. and a super sharp in pack, folder.Along with me havalon type with spare blades