New to reloading which primers to use

Welcome to the forum from East Central Wisconsin! I've been areloader since the late sixties. Federal 210 are great primers. For equipment I personally prefer RCBS or Redding. Just my preference. For loading manuals I have a whole shelf of them and have read all that I have. I don't think that you can have too many manuals or too many guns. When loading work in an area where you will have no distractions. You will be working with components that are capable of extreme pressure. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask us. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. We will help any way we can.

Good luck! Stay safe and enjoy the ride!
I completely agree. I've never really been a gun person myself, never disliked them just never had interest. However i am a bit of a prepper so decided if **** goes down and i need to hunt best have one. Plus i am from Canada where our wannabe dictator has banned the sale of handguns, and he's made amendments to that bill where he was wanting to ban many shotguns, and many hunting rifles hunters use luckily that bill got shot down by the opposition parties, however he came back with an edited bill for "assault style rifles" and has a bunch of guns on that ban list. So the fact it seems he's trying to ban guns made me decide it would be best to get some, now i have 4 with intentions of getting more. When the government says you don't need guns, you need guns. I'll be sure to get many reloading books, most people on here have recommended it so i may as well get many, it never hurts. I will be sure to ask if i have more thanks
 
I would add, in regard to loading manuals, I use several sources that include the bullet manufacturer, but I always then check the loads suggested with the powder manufacturer. I have been caught out not doing this and it turned into bad juju…

Do NOT mix headstamps…EVER!

Cheers.
Honestly may said they have multiple books so i think that's the route i'll go. Oh ****, yeah mixing that type of stuff would make me nervous when it comes to stuff like that
 
Do NOT mix headstamps…EVER!
Why not? I do all the time *except* when loading maximum pressure loads, such as for self/home defense or hunting loads. If you are using a mid range load, the difference between various brands of brass should never be enough to increase pressures to any noticeable degree.

If I'm loading max loads I always use same brand brass and work my way up in steps to get what I want from any given powder/bullet combo.

The only potential scenario where you might not want to mix head stamps is when there is military brass included. I usually just use military brass for low to mid range practice loads as the difference between military and commercial brass can be substantial. Personally, if I have military brass in the mix, I always develope the load with military brass. Commercial brass with the same load might chronograph a bit lower but will always be safe. One thing, you will seldom get the best accuracy out of military brass!

If you're going to try and squeeze the last bit of accuracy out of your rifle, start with Lapua brass! Maybe ADG, although I have never found any available from any source. I've been trying to get some Lapua .223 brass for a couple of years with no success but that will be used in a heavy barreled AR that already shoots pretty small groups.

Using the word "never" in a reloading context is something that should be avoided! Unless you're talking about exceeding the maximum book loads by virtually any degree. There is almost always some kind of exception! Almost, but not always! This is where experience comes in. Too often people use the strength of modern firearms to protect them from themselves! It will never pay off in the long run.

While I say "never" use just one manual, I have violated this when there is only one single source of information available for a given powder or bullet. In general, you can use load data for a specific bullet for a bullet *of similar construction* of the same weight. Where this will NOT work is when you have data for a cup & lead core bullet and you are using a mono bullet (e.g. all copper) even if the weight is the same. Another one that is claimed to be different when it comes to powder charges is the Speer Gold Dot. I will take Speer's word for this and use their data for their bullet as there are few other sources specifically for Gold Dot bullets. Beyond that, always start with a low or mid range load and work your way up to maximum loads. Or most accurate, whatever you are looking to get out of your firearm!

Lastly, another good source of reloading data is powder manufacturers websites. While I much prefer a book in front of me, there is still valuable data to be had online from numerous websites. However, do be careful where you get your info! Using a load that some guy on the internet gave you is not a good idea unless you can confirm it safe with data from a loading manual! Sometimes a guy who only shoots 2 rounds a year can get away with way overloading a cartridge without blowing the bolt back into his forehead! You might not be so lucky!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
That is entirely possible! Like I said, if you're trying to squeeze the last bit of accuracy out of a rifle, you need the best brass you can get your hands on, which I believe is Lapua! To be honest, I think most hunters would be better off with a bit more practice than a bit more accuracy! It all depends on what you expect out of your rifle. Generally speaking, the longer someone has been at this game, the more they will demand from their equipment. Going thru the process of getting the absolute most in the way accuracy, getting a better, more accurate scale, a chronograph, prepping brass, etc. But this is usually a long process that can take years to even take seed in a guys mind, wanting more out of whatever equipment he's using. That's because increasing accuracy takes experience (or lots of money!). Leading up from the beginning of the process usually requires a fair bit of shooting, which is why many guys start reloading in the first place. Since our OP is mainly a prepper, I will assume he's more interested in volume than getting the absolute best possible accuracy from his rifle. Plus volume is lots more fun, too!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
You do whatever you like…
I find mixed headstamps do not shoot into the same group or velocity.

Cheers.
^This.
No serious reloader or shooter I know mixes headstamped brass. If you care to do some case weighing and water capacity, you will see big swings in both when you mix headstamped brass. Might work for the 300 and in guy, but this is Long Range Hunting forum. Not "Paper Plate Accuracy" forum. We require a bit more precision and accuracy than that.

I don't even use mixed headstamped brass for my varmint loads in my ARs. Lake City for me.
 
So many replies i'd like to thank everyone. Such amazing responses really helped me out a lot, i look forward to being part of this community. Got exactly the information i needed and i appreciate it greatly. Glad i also read to match the reloading presses and dies etc i'm normally that weird person that prefers to do so but seeing so many say it will definitely get me to do so
No need to match press brand and die brands or shell holders.

I have a 30+ year old Pacific Tool and Die single stage press.
I use RCBS and Redding shell holders.
I use dies from RCBS, Redding, Wilson, Whidden, Forster, Hornady, and Bullet Central.

Here is my suggestion. Avoid brass by Hornady and Federal. They make OK factory ammo, but the brass sucks.

If you want the best brass for .308Win:
1. Alpha
2. Lapua
3. Peterson
These will cost you more, but quality, consistency, and longevity will offset the price.
 
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Hello all, i have a few questions. I am new to firearms. I am from Canada and just got my license last year. Due to the pandemic i am aware there's a shortage on reloading supplies but we've been hit bad especially here and still hard to come by, so as supplies pops up and comes available i'd like to purchase it while i can despite not knowing anything about reloading yet. I own a Tikka T3X CTR in .308 I am currently looking at purchasing some primers as they've finally come in stock online but i honestly don't have a clue which i should buy. I am looking at Federal 210 large rifle primers. However i also see 215. I was considering picking up the 210 but don't want to waste the money if they're not even the ones i need

Also second question. What is the best reloading manual that could help a noob such as myself learn. Last question which reloading brand would you recommend? i am not fully aware of all the reloading brands but i've been into cabelas looking around and they have lyman, and nosler which are the two brands i see most of, i'm sure there's tons of others. Thanks in advance and apologies for the rookie questions
Hi . I am also from the Great White North , Timmins Ontario . I hear your frustration about trying to find and buy Primers and Powder There are a couple of excellent gun sites in Canada that you can buy and sell from .
Gunpost and CanadianGunnutz .
Its also way easier and less than half price to find primers if you change your brass to SRP .
 
No need to match press brand and die brands or shell holders.

I have a 30+ year old Pacific Tool and Die single stage press.
I use RCBS and Redding shell holders.
I use dies from RCBS, Redding, Wilson, Whidden, Forster, Hornady, and Bullet Central.

Here is my suggestion. Avoid brass by Hornady and Federal. They make OK factory ammo, but the brass sucks.

If you want the best brass for .308Win:
1. Alpha
2. Lapua
3. Peterson
These will cost you more, but quality, consistency, and longevity will offset the price.
Oh right on i'll look into those brass, haven't heard of them but than again just starting to get into the reloading now, but because there's a shortage in most supplies and has been since pandemic trying to learn a bit about the primers, brass, bullets etc so when i do see it come available i am able to quickly buy it so i have it
 
Hi . I am also from the Great White North , Timmins Ontario . I hear your frustration about trying to find and buy Primers and Powder There are a couple of excellent gun sites in Canada that you can buy and sell from .
Gunpost and CanadianGunnutz .
Its also way easier and less than half price to find primers if you change your brass to SRP .
Oh right on, i'll be sure bookmark these sites thanks. Yeah it is frustrating on how much of a shortage there is for sure. I am new to the gun scene, don't even know what attachments go on what gun lol luckily my brother is a gun person he doesn't have his license or any himself but he knows all about that so i have his help when it comes to that, and i have a co worker who doesn't know much about reloading but his brother reloads his ammo and he tells me how his brother has a hard time finding the stuff and i've looked online most places are out of stock on everything, gone into local gun stores they got none. Certainly is a lot of information to retain though
 
Fed210 and cci200 are probably most popular for general shooting and work well.

I started with the Lee manual and I like it. I recommend it.
Good too know, i was a bit confused at first because there is CCI 200 and federa champion 210 knew they were two separate companies but wasn't sure if they were both for 308 or not.
 
Oh right on, i'll be sure bookmark these sites thanks. Yeah it is frustrating on how much of a shortage there is for sure. I am new to the gun scene, don't even know what attachments go on what gun lol luckily my brother is a gun person he doesn't have his license or any himself but he knows all about that so i have his help when it comes to that, and i have a co worker who doesn't know much about reloading but his brother reloads his ammo and he tells me how his brother has a hard time finding the stuff and i've looked online most places are out of stock on everything, gone into local gun stores they got none. Certainly is a lot of information to retain though
There's no problem getting the power , primers and brass, it depends on how much you want to spend to get it . Primers were $130 for 1000 , today , they can be anything from $500 and up . Powder has more than doubled in the past 3 years . Projectiles for any of the decent ones are close to a Buck a piece . People like myself who shoot hundreds or rounds per month have a hard time dealing with the increase in cost . Either way , it still ( barely ) works out cheaper than store bought ammo and , you can taylor the rounds to your rifles .
 
There's no problem getting the power , primers and brass, it depends on how much you want to spend to get it . Primers were $130 for 1000 , today , they can be anything from $500 and up . Powder has more than doubled in the past 3 years . Projectiles for any of the decent ones are close to a Buck a piece . People like myself who shoot hundreds or rounds per month have a hard time dealing with the increase in cost . Either way , it still ( barely ) works out cheaper than store bought ammo and , you can taylor the rounds to your rifles .
Yeah that's what my co worker was saying is how inflated the prices have become it's crazy. I first wanted to get into reloading because i was under the impression it was cheaper than store bought ammo but after doing a bit of research i realized it wasn't, and if it is you're barely saving anything at all, literal cents per bullet, but after taking some of my guns apart and putting them back together i realized how relaxing and fun it was. So i imagine reloading would probably be pretty similar, a nice little hobby. I obviously don't know how tayloring rounds to your rifle works as i haven't done it but right there in itself seems worth it even if you don't save any money on it
 
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