Broken/Stuck case

dkwellman said:

There's nothing to hook to. The rim is broken off & all you can see is the edge of the case.

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Stuck case removers do not need a rim. They go inside the case and lock onto the mouth of the stuck case . Another method is to find the appropriate sized threading tap and thread it into the stuck case. The tap should "bite" hard into the case wall without cutting through to the die. You can then screw the appropriate sized bolt into the case and either try pulling it out or tapping the end of the bolt with a brass punch and hammer. I've also used electronic cooling spray to freeze the brass before trying either method. The expansion/ contraction rate of the brass is greater than the steel die, so this usually helps.

Screw out the expander rod and decapper unit.

Plug rest of the case from the bottom with a plug of steel wool or similar.

Then fill the stuck case through the hole for the expander rod with molten lead (or cerrosafe, if that stuff is hard enough after cooling and available).

After cooling you can apply some WD 40 and tap the case out through the hole for the expander rod.

Scratching the inside of the stuck case with a screwdriver helps to keep the lead-core fixed to the brass.

Worked for me with a headless 7 mm Rem Mag case in a RCBS die.

If you have any of the canned air for cleaning computers, when held upside down the propellent will freeze the case and should cause the case to contract enough to come free.

get a tap that will barely fit in case. Thread the case as far as you can. thread a nut on a bolt to use as a temporary stop if you need one. Put some large washers on the bolt. Lock the case in your press so it won't turn. Screw bolt into case until it comes loose.

Please report back what ended up working for you. Plenty of great ideals, anxious to see which method you when with.

Had this happen.....ONCE! LOL!
pulled the head (excuse me! RIM.) off a .270 Win case in a RCBS sizing die.
You know what "Cerrosafe" is?
It's a hard, lead like material that has a super low melting point! (less than 200°F)
Remove the decapping set up if possible. Plug die just above case mouth. Fill case with melted Cerrosafe. Give it about 10 minutes to set up, then use a rod to push the case out the bottom of the die.

What I did:

I almost destroyed my stuck case remover! It WOULD NOT budge the stuck case!
It stayed stuck on the die over a year as I pondered a solution. Thank goodness, I had a backup die!

Solution: don't remember what I was doing, but I was filing on the tang of a small, chainsaw sharpening file.
Then it dawns on me, the die is super hard. The file tang is actually mild steel and can be shaped with a file.
I sharpened the file tang to a long angle on one side. An angle steep enough to force the sharpened end between the case and die wall.
THEN....I cut the head off the case and cautiously began driving (tapping?) the sharpened file tang between the case and the die body!
IT WORKED!
I had to cut the case top to bottom (bottom to top?) twice....and the case popped right out!
I have used that particular .270 die to resize 0robably thousand of .270 cases since. No ill effects!

johngibbs222 said:

If you can access the neck end of the die, and I know the redding ones are comparatively so complicated, drive a fine screwdriver down between the neck and the sizing bush to sort of kink the case neck away from the bush - it should drift out with a brass drift quite easily once you've removed the tool.
You can buy a new bush if you happen to score it.
A lot folks will poo-poo my next suggestion which is to buy the Lee neck sizing die instead, in my opinion does a better job than the redding one and I have both brands for my 22 savage high power.
I've never broken or jammed a case in a Lee one either and I have them in 22 hi-p, 223, 22-250, 30/30 and 308 - just follow the instructions.
The one and only criticism of Lee's product is if using them to crimp cases with lubed cast boolits seated they can gum up with the mule snot but it's nothing that a periodic cleaning won't cure, or adopt powder coating but that's a whole different story.
Just my $0.02 worth.

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Returning to Redding. $20 to fix.

You might try a .45 rifle brass brush on a pistol rod, shove it in the case as far as it will go and see if that will pull it out.
Good luck.

dkwellman said:

Returning to Redding. $20 to fix.

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They will probably send you a new one

crystalgayleguy said:

They will probably send you a new one

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I've never dealt with Redding, but if they are like RCBS they will replace the die for free.

Please video your attempt and post it

Redding never came close to the product warranty that RCBS provided.

VinceMule said:

Redding never came close to the product warranty that RCBS provided.

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That is about the same experience I've had with Hornady. That is why about 98% of my equipment is RCBS.

dkwellman said:

Returning to Redding. $20 to fix.

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If it was RCBS they would replace under warranty for free.

Fred Huntington's legacy lives on at RCBS, incredible man, dedicated to help reloaders and shooters with incredible product warranty.

The loss of their custom shop is still being felt.