Broken/Stuck case

I have personally used the pistol brush method and the die threaded into the case method over the years with success. As others stated, you need to take a hard look at what caused that case separation in the first place on once fired Peterson brass. Not a common condition.

I would try an easy out to remove the case and if that didnt work tap it and screw a bolt into the case and drive it out with a punch from the top.

Catbird said:

Get a stuck case remover.

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Won't work in this "Case"

Stuck brass in die, no rim or brass to drill, tap & turn out with threaded tool/bolt.

Don't scratch the nice smooth polished insides of the die with hardened cutting tools like taps & screw extractors causing ugly rough surfaces.

Many stuck case removers come with a extended hex nut having a threaded hole that fits the threaded end of the expander button & primer push out pin. The hex nut when turned pulls the expander with pin thru top of die, this will expand the brass neck thus compounding the stuck case problem. If possible, unscrew the expander/pin using needle nose pliers from die bottom. then remove threaded expander stem. This should enable a view of the stuck brass from die top. Then chemically attack the brass (copper & zinc) with a bore cleaning solution, like used inside of steel rifle barrels, containing ethanolamine, like Hoppe's foam. Let it soak overnight. Then neutralize using water & use a oversize bronze bore brush to drag the busted brass out of die - put rod thru die then screw on brush, then pull.

If this don't work send the die back to maker. Don't damage the steel die, despite being hardened it can be scratched.

As previously suggested - check headspace for brass separation indicated by shiny ring above brass web, usually about .2 inch above base.

dkwellman said:

Neck sizing 280 AI Peterson brass shot once. Bottom 1/2" of the broke off & the remainder is stuck in my Redding die. Any suggestions?

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Only once fired on new brass? Very odd. Maybe the die was dirty and/or lube was insufficient. I recently had a case head separation with 280 AI Peterson brass. Mine was in the chamber and when fired, due to the separation more force went back and my locking lugs were slight deformed. Ruined the receiver. I was reloading for two rifles which had different headspacing and I attribute the case head separation to brass stretching on the longer headspaced chamber. Yours should not have separated.

dkwellman said:

Neck sizing 280 AI Peterson brass shot once. Bottom 1/2" of the broke off & the remainder is stuck in my Redding die. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

I had this happen with a Remington case that had been shot 4 times, no signs of any weak spots, case well lubed when put into the die. Half way out, it broke off just above the base. Tried hooking it out, but like you there was no good place to grab. I ended up soaking the die in WD-40 for a day then, as men placed it in my freezer set to -15 degrees for 24 hours. When I pulled it out of the freezer placed it in a pair of vice grips padded with a cloth, then tapped it against the side of the workbench. Broke case fell out onto the floor. Give it a try, nothing ventured, nothing gained with absolutely nothing to lose.

Hugnot said:

Stuck brass in die, no rim or brass to drill, tap & turn out with threaded tool/bolt.

Don't scratch the nice smooth polished insides of the die with hardened cutting tools like taps & screw extractors causing ugly rough surfaces.

Many stuck case removers come with a extended hex nut having a threaded hole that fits the threaded end of the expander button & primer push out pin. The hex nut when turned pulls the expander with pin thru top of die, this will expand the brass neck thus compounding the stuck case problem. If possible, unscrew the expander/pin using needle nose pliers from die bottom. then remove threaded expander stem. This should enable a view of the stuck brass from die top. Then chemically attack the brass (copper & zinc) with a bore cleaning solution, like used inside of steel rifle barrels, containing ethanolamine, like Hoppe's foam. Let it soak overnight. Then neutralize using water & use a oversize bronze bore brush to drag the busted brass out of die - put rod thru die then screw on brush, then pull.

If this don't work send the die back to maker. Don't damage the steel die, despite being hardened it can be scratched.

Click to expand...

I am surprised that nobody has mentioned Cerocast which is a low temperature alloy used to determine what a rifle chamber is on unknown rifles. You can get it at Buffalo Arms. You melt a little with a propane torch or even a heat gun and after plugging the die with a patch above the broken of piece, pour it in and let it cool for about 5 minutes. You can then tap the case out from the top easily. Reheat the Cerrocast to remove it from the broken piece and you can use it time and time again. It also works great to remove broken shells from rifle chambers. Tom

cajun said:

That's what you get for neck sizing lol. Seriously though I have heard of guys using dry ice to freeze the die and it may pop out. They also make a broken case extractor for a separated case stuck in a chamber. That may work. Also you could soak it in pb blaster and try and bend the bottom enough to grab with some needle nose.

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PB Blaster is good stuff. PB Penetrating Oil has saved me in a few tight, rusted or frozen situations.

Bulseyetom said:

I am surprised that nobody has mentioned Cerocast which is a low temperature alloy used to determine what a rifle chamber is on unknown rifles. You can get it at Buffalo Arms. You melt a little with a propane torch or even a heat gun and after plugging the die with a patch above the broken of piece, pour it in and let it cool for about 5 minutes. You can then tap the case out from the top easily. Reheat the Cerrocast to remove it from the broken piece and you can use it time and time again. It also works great to remove broken shells from rifle chambers. Tom

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I never would have thought of using Cerrosafe to remove the broken/stuck case. Borderline genius!

Thanks, haven't stuck a case except in my first year of reloading- which was decade's ago but I'm going to remember this, could apply to other projects/problems too.

My theory is case head separation line was very thinned out to a point that it crinkled and broke upon neck sizing and only the case head came out upon lowering ram.
I'd just get a new die and perhaps send it to Redding for removal…or not. Worst case is you have a spare.
Also…It may come out with suggestions made in previous posts.
FWIW… I've used Lee Collet and worked great but do very little to no neck sizing anymore.

Best of luck

Catbird said:

Get a stuck case remover.

Click to expand...

A stuck case remover won't work if the base of case is gone.

dkwellman said:

Neck sizing 280 AI Peterson brass shot once. Bottom 1/2" of the broke off & the remainder is stuck in my Redding die. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

When I was in the Army we had case chamber extraction tool(s) for 5.56, 7.62x51, and .50 BMG if you can find one they work great if the stuck is of one of those body diameters, in your case the 7.62x51 should work. The other would be an "Easy Out" that should also be close to the case body dimension, just be careful and don't bite through the brass case into the die. Here's the Military .50 case remover and the 223/5.56 and 7.62x51 from Echo, pretty much the same as the old Military ones, granted... there for rifle chambers but I think they'd do the job in your die if you are careful. Good luck Cheers

I've not had that happen in a die but have in a rifle chamber. You can cut another case off at approx the same place then find a appropriate size bolt and cut grooves in the the threads like a ez-out. The bolt is not case hardened so won't harm the die if you're careful. Put a nut and washer on it, thread into the case snugly then tighten the nut and it should pull the case right out.

Call Redding and ask if they have suggestions. How do they do it?