Good information on annealing

I built this annealer off of this video on YouTube. It works amazingly well and total cost about $220

I started with salt bath annealing but switched to a flame source method. I use the EP Integrations unit which is on the cheaper side, simple to use and does the job…I guess as any flame annealer.

Bang4theBuck said:

I did salt bath annealing for a bit too, and the danger of burning the place down, or burning myself was too high for me, so i sold it.

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You're literally playing with molten lava. There's a reason why people run when volcanoes erupt!

I have an Amp. I've had it about a year. Maybe two. I can anneal 100 rounds in a very short amount of time. I don't have one of the fancy brass feeder widgets. I don't want one either.

20 rounds takes maybe 5 minutes at the most. I tried the salt bath annealer but it's a bit tedious. I anneal whatever I'm loading.

I anneal with the flame/socket/drill method. Count in my head with low light to see the instant the brass starts to change color. I know that there are more quantifiable and consistent methods out there, but seating pressure/consistently feels good and I am able to produce ammo with long brass life, great accuracy, consistency, and low ES numbers. It works great for my needs and cost is as low as it gets. Like mentioned above, I am sure it's not as consistent as the other more expensive methods, but it has worked well so I see no need to change.

I find it interesting that people shy away from salt bath annealers, but think nothing of an open flame annealer. I wonder how many of those folks cast their own lead bullets?

Pretty much everything is dangerous if you're doing it wrong. Some things are dangerous even when you're doing it right.
I'm not criticizing these individual choices, I just find it interesting where each of us draws that line and just how 'crooked' that line can be.

BTW, Those of us wearing glasses to read this, if yours have a plastic frame the way that the lens' were fitted into the frame was the use of a tool that is very similar to a salt bath annealer only it has glass beads in it, just not as hot (obviously).

I have been using an Annealeez for a few years and find it does a great job. Their website has very good info on how to use the unit to get the results you are looking for. They are not expensive, coming in at $275 for the latest unit the Gen 4. The Gen 4 comes with metal wheels to keep from melting the ones on the older ones. As I said I have been using one for several years and have never melted a wheel. Their website clearly explains hoe to do this. American made, and very good people to deal with.
Hope this helps.

Trout004, that's how I anneal as well. I find the annealing process just as therapeutic as the loading process. I'm not looking to be fast, I do it as a hobby.

Chranah said:

Trout004, that's how I anneal as well. I find the annealing process just as therapeutic as the loading process. I'm not looking to be fast, I do it as a hobby.

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Agreed. Honestly it goes quick anyway. I stole an aluminum sheet pan from my wife , drop them there to let them cool. Going through 100 only takes about 10-15 minutes.

ntsqd said:

I find it interesting that people shy away from salt bath annealers, but think nothing of an open flame annealer. I wonder how many of those folks cast their own lead bullets?

Pretty much everything is dangerous if you're doing it wrong. Some things are dangerous even when you're doing it right.
I'm not criticizing these individual choices, I just find it interesting where each of us draws that line and just how 'crooked' that line can be.

BTW, Those of us wearing glasses to read this, if yours have a plastic frame the way that the lens' were fitted into the frame was the use of a tool that is very similar to a salt bath annealer only it has glass beads in it, just not as hot (obviously).

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The difference between the 'residual heat' in the salt bath and a flame are the reasons that I opted out.

1. When I want to be done with the heat source, I simply switch off the flame, and within 10 seconds, I feel completely comfortable with walking away from it. Not at all the case with the salt bath. same on the warm up period.
2. On one occasion, I mistakenly got hung up in the cord for the heated vat of salt, which was absolutely my fault. Some of the molten salt splashed out, and immediately started a fire on my bench. Instinctually, I went to snuff out the fire with a rag I happen to have near by, and the rag caught fire given the source of the flame (molten salt). That told me that I need to have something other than a wood/formica reloading bench to use this process. Yes, it was my fault for not thinking of that ahead.

to each his own, but I like the safeties built into a torch with a knob and/or a switch to eliminate the heat source.

Bang4theBuck said:

The difference between the 'residual heat' in the salt bath and a flame are the reasons that I opted out.

1. When I want to be done with the heat source, I simply switch off the flame, and within 10 seconds, I feel completely comfortable with walking away from it. Not at all the case with the salt bath. same on the warm up period.
2. On one occasion, I mistakenly got hung up in the cord for the heated vat of salt, which was absolutely my fault. Some of the molten salt splashed out, and immediately started a fire on my bench. Instinctually, I went to snuff out the fire with a rag I happen to have near by, and the rag caught fire given the source of the flame (molten salt). That told me that I need to have something other than a wood/formica reloading bench to use this process. Yes, it was my fault for not thinking of that ahead.

to each his own, but I like the safeties built into a torch with a knob and/or a switch to eliminate the heat source.

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And don't ever think of adding water to kill the fire the salt will explode.just like one drop of sweat in the vat and it will pop sending molten salt flying!

trout004 said:

I anneal with the flame/socket/drill method. Count in my head with low light to see the instant the brass starts to change color. I know that there are more quantifiable and consistent methods out there, but seating pressure/consistently feels good and I am able to produce ammo with long brass life, great accuracy, consistency, and low ES numbers. It works great for my needs and cost is as low as it gets. Like mentioned above, I am sure it's not as consistent as the other more expensive methods, but it has worked well so I see no need to change.

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This is basically the same way that I do it and I'd say that it is as least as good as some fancy machines, just not as expensive
If a guy says that he can't get consistent results using a small torch and a drill, then he is really just commenting on his personal ability…
In the end, To each his own

If Alex Wheeler doesn't need it, I don't either: https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/keeping-it-simple-with-reloading.291717/

ntsqd said:

I find it interesting that people shy away from salt bath annealers

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Very hot liquid can cause a lot of damage in a very short amount of time.