$300 scale advice

Yeah, for me it is accuracy, not just group sizes. A +/- .05 load drift has no bearing for my rifles' accuracy at 200 to 1000 yards in many calibers/cartridges that range from .223 to .45-.70 ... what matters most is me behind the trigger and scope or iron sights. It's all good and whatever works best for each of us will be best, and that's a good thing.
All the strain gauges I've had would drift in tenths. Even the cheaper strain gauges that will read to .02 are likely closer to .1 in accuracy if that. Then you factor in the zero drift which you plainly see if you remove the pan and watch the negative tare. With the pan on the zero will drift but you wont see it as many are programmed to stay at zero with the pan on and zeroed.
 
..laugh as you wish but I've used my little 5-0-5 RCBS beam for 50+ years and compete in true organized benchrest with PPC's, BR's, Dashers, from 100 to 1000 yards without any issues caused by that little el-cheappo deluxe scale, now if I only could say that about my eye ballz....
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I have an old ohaus that has the threaded knob on the end for the tenths. You can actually set it in 1/2 tenth. The scale will respond trickling a kernel or 2 of varget. It's slow. But I am retired. Time is not a thing.
 
What I'm getting from all this is that if you buy a strain guage, you'll need to periodically check for drift vs a known weight. How often probably relates to how cheap the scale is. I'd love to have a side-by-side of some $300-400 strain scale options, but it looks like that's not available.

For now I snagged a $150 gempro to keep me in the game. One of these days I'll justify dropping $700 on an electromagnetic. Just not today.
 
What I'm getting from all this is that if you buy a strain guage, you'll need to periodically check for drift vs a known weight. How often probably relates to how cheap the scale is. I'd love to have a side-by-side of some $300-400 strain scale options, but it looks like that's not available.

For now I snagged a $150 gempro to keep me in the game. One of these days I'll justify dropping $700 on an electromagnetic. Just not today.
After zeroing with the pan on remove the pan and watch the negative tare between loads. You will likely have to rezero the pan every few loads. It's also best just to leave it on 24/7 or at least set it up an hour or so in advance. I also find that if you are trickling and it's not responding bump the scale lighlty with your finger and it will update.
 
Another thing I would like to mention is these electronic scales are very sensitive to a lot of things such as fluorescent lighting, Bluetooth signals that means your phones and also any smart watches. You may have get rid of that stuff and check the results. I take off my smart watch and leave my phone in the other room when weighing charges.
Don't forget wind currents, drafts, and an un-clean power source.
 
Maybe a set of these should enter the discussion somewhere along the line?

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I've tried both beam scales and the electronic scales. I can't see any benefit of using the electronic scale unless you pare it with an electronic powder dispenser. My experience with the dispenser / electronic scale was that it is slow with some degree of inaccuracy for all the reasons already mentioned. I had to seat bullets in-between powder dispenses just to get close to breaking even on time. I think the evidence of this is when I watch online videos showing guys running 3 powder dispensers at the same time. Currently, I'm back to using my 70's era RCBS 5-10 beam scale and I will put the accuracy of that up against any electronic scale designed for reloading. As a few have mentioned, I also like to put a camera close to the pointer and view it enlarged on my laptop computer screen. If you want to really get accurate, I have seen some modify their pointer by mounting a pin on the beam and extend the pin out toward the reference mark on the stand to give a real fine way to measure its precise location. Maybe some might find the following video interesting.

 
Then you factor in the zero drift which you plainly see if you remove the pan and watch the negative tare.
I tested the negative tare of the TRX-925. I can't find my spreadsheet but I used a fairly high sample number to calculate negative tare standard deviation. SD was tiny. Statistically 0. Extreme spread was tiny. Statistically 0. The TRX-925 comes with a set of 3 calibration weights. If it's plugged in the electronics are "idling in the background", the words in parenthesis are my words not theirs. Here's what they say about it. LINK scroll down. I've had mine for over a year and it hasn't ever let me down. I'll upgrade one day but it does what I need it to for now. There is one problem that will always be there when you have two ways to measure that same thing - which one is right. Confirmation bias is a thing.
 
I've tried both beam scales and the electronic scales. I can't see any benefit of using the electronic scale unless you pare it with an electronic powder dispenser. My experience with the dispenser / electronic scale was that it is slow with some degree of inaccuracy for all the reasons already mentioned. I had to seat bullets in-between powder dispenses just to get close to breaking even on time. I think the evidence of this is when I watch online videos showing guys running 3 powder dispensers at the same time. Currently, I'm back to using my 70's era RCBS 5-10 beam scale and I will put the accuracy of that up against any electronic scale designed for reloading. As a few have mentioned, I also like to put a camera close to the pointer and view it enlarged on my laptop computer screen. If you want to really get accurate, I have seen some modify their pointer by mounting a pin on the beam and extend the pin out toward the reference mark on the stand to give a real fine way to measure its precise location. Maybe some might find the following video interesting.


You say electronic scales are slow, but then you use a beam scale?
 
Just get a beam scale. Be sure the pivots are perfectly clean and without blemish. Check your weights on it several times. As long as the readings are consistent - consistent - consistent, use it without fear. It may tell you the weight in dilithium crystals or cubes of latinum. You can grind a little off if in the gravest extreme you need to adjust the weights. But if they are absolutely consistent and you know what it's going to weigh your check weight, use it. I have scales from cheap to expensive; from old beaters to precision analytical laboratory balances that reside behind glass walls. If I start with one, I will use it for that series of loads ... forever. Unless the pivots are damaged and it reads inconsistently. They all work on gravity; and around here, that has been the same for a long, long time. We worry about too much, but that's the fun of it.
 
All the strain gauges I've had would drift in tenths. Even the cheaper strain gauges that will read to .02 are likely closer to .1 in accuracy if that. Then you factor in the zero drift which you plainly see if you remove the pan and watch the negative tare. With the pan on the zero will drift but you wont see it as many are programmed to stay at zero with the pan on and zeroed.
Interesting. I've not seen that with the TRX-925.
 
Interesting. I've not seen that with the TRX-925.
It probably has some type of programming to minimize it or so you can't see it. It's fairly inherent to the type of scale. I know the cheaper ones have programming to keep it reading zero. So if the pan is on and zeroed it may very well be drifting but the programming hides it by keeping the reading at zero.
 
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