Remove red loctite?
- Thread starter Marplot
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I used Rocksett muzzle adhesive on the last one, but I haven't tried to remove it yet.
It's holdin tight though.
It's holdin tight though.
I have been using MBs since 2003 and I never use any loctite. I do however use high temp anti-seize lubricant.
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- Jan 26, 2015
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550F is well into tempering/drawing range. Metallurgical changes will take place at that level.
I'd try the chemicals approach (acetone) first and apply some heat. Without good equipment, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between 550 and 800 unless you have bare metal and can see the oxidation change.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
Usually just use enough to lock it and it's easier to remove later. I have taken the brake off during a range session with pliers. At home I use a heat gun. In the end you won't hurt your barrel or carbon wrapped barrel if you do it this way.
That stuff is the worst trying to get off. Crap is used a lot in the AR world.
I'm with Feenix, anti seize is all that I use. I want to be able to get them off to clean them and the muzzle.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
A technique that I use when removing something that has been Lock-tited on is to advance in the off direction a little, then back up. Repeat until off. Much like how you tap a hole or run a die down something. Eventually you'll feel that it has let go and you can just spin the part loose.
550° is much warmer than I think that I've ever heated anything in loosening Lock-tited threads. I heat gently and try it, if it doesn't move then a little more heat then try it again, repeat until it pops loose. Patience is an effective tool with stuff like this.
550° is much warmer than I think that I've ever heated anything in loosening Lock-tited threads. I heat gently and try it, if it doesn't move then a little more heat then try it again, repeat until it pops loose. Patience is an effective tool with stuff like this.
Laelkhunter
Well-Known Member
I do not use any Loctite on mine. In fact, I use Loctite LB 8008 C5-A Copper Anti-Seize lube on mine. The brake is stainless and the barrel is stainless, so I don't want to gall the threads. I've never had it come loose.
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It is nice to know I am not the only one using anti-seize lubricant. I use them on spark plugs too or anything with dissimilar metal to prevent/reduce galling.
You might look into Thermal paste. Cheers
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Not all anti-seize formulas are good for stainless steel, and stainless on stainless is the worst case scenario. I suggest researching that before using anything.
Laelkhunter
Well-Known Member
My brake is stainless (I'm pretty sure), and my barrel is stainless (Lilja Match). I use a copper anti seize lube on it. The brake MIGHT be carbon steel, but it is cerakoted black to match the barrel. Been a few years since I had it rebarreled and braked. But thanks for the heads-up.
edited: Just read on their website, it is designed for all metals and alloys, including stainless steel. I have to double check to see if my brake is actually stainless or not. I know the cap for the threads is stainless, but now I'm not sure about the brake itself.
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You are GTG!
No....that's generally what a lock nut does!
