Loctite and shelf life:

[westcliffe01]

Provided you use the blue loctite, the application of a little heat with a mini propane torch will soften it and allow extraction of the fasteners. The trick is not to wail on a fastener until it is stripped and then start worrying about releasing the loctite.

I used blue loctite between a 1 piece steel scope base (warne) and a receiver and it bonded so fast I didnt even have time to get the screw holes aligned. It held so tight I had to use a propane torch to get it free, it was not coming off any other way. Of course the contact area was quite large, so no wonder. I then had to scrape the loctite off both the base and the receiver and start over. The experience has given me a lot of confidence in the power of the blue loctite and I have never had anything come free, ever.

 

[.257rwr]

most all the Loctite that sets up is around the screw head and in the clearance hole there is a minut amount that actually gets into the threads this still allows disassembly. I prefer my bases to be permanent and don't interchange them anyway just my opinion. but absolutely don't take my word on it I'm just speaking from 20+ years experience. the biggest issue is with Allen head screws that strip thr head out from cheep allen wrenches. Using quality Torx should never be an issue.

 

[FEENIX]

most all the Loctite that sets up is around the screw head and in the clearance hole there is a minut amount that actually gets into the threads this still allows disassembly. I prefer my bases to be permanent and don't interchange them anyway just my opinion. but absolutely don't take my word on it I'm just speaking from 20+ years experience. the biggest issue is with Allen head screws that strip thr head out from cheep allen wrenches. Using quality Torx should never be an issue.

+1! This has been my personal experience too.

 

[just country]

morning, I was at one time a heavy equipment mechanic, moved on to aircraft

mechanic-inspector. I have used blue locktite on trenching saws that saw thru rock.

when changing rock saw segements I had to use a torch on the nuts where I

applied the blue locktite to loosen the grip of the blue locktite. I put the segments on

with a 3/4" impact.

the blue should b shaken very well. use spray tether r carbon tet. to degrease the scope parts.

apply apply 1 drop to ring screw. NO MORE. torque to specs. WILL set in 12hrs.

I use red locktite, has a easier release from torqueing. more screws more torque.

shelf life when opened used ASAP, locktite has a time setting agent! Warne STEEL rings and mounts r superb.


just country

life member NRA&TSRAlightbulb

 

[engineer40]

For those of you who don't want to use a blow torch near your high dollar scopes to remove screws with loctite... I have had great luck just holding a soldering iron on the screw/allen head for a bit. Usually only takes 30-60 seconds. The screws come right out like they never had loctite on at all.

(I've only done this with the blue loctite).

 

[J E Custom]

For those of you who don't want to use a blow torch near your high dollar scopes to remove screws with loctite... I have had great luck just holding a soldering iron on the screw/allen head for a bit. Usually only takes 30-60 seconds. The screws come right out like they never had loctite on at all.

(I've only done this with the blue Loctite).

+1
This really works and doesn't heat up anything else.

I even made my own tip that would center in the screw head without touching the base and it works great. (And saves twisting off the small screws that have been installed using Loctite.

And yes , it works on the purple Loctite also.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Trickymissfit]

I used to goto the Loctite training seminar about once a year to brush up on what's new and also learn what others were doing. Loctite/Permatex is a constantly evolving corporation that primarily services heavy industry. Automobile Companies tell Loctite what they need, and Loctite develops it for them. Samething for aircraft and just about everybody else.

Loctite also sells various epoxies, and even several types of sealants for hydraulics and pneumatics. You just have to know what you need, ad ask them. Forget a sales counter 70% of the time.

Thread locker (that's what they call it) is not a true glue like substance, but still does a little somewhat. It's designed to fill all the voids and gaps between the female thread form and the male thread form. Thus creating a near 100% contact. Most all grade five or higher screws are roll thread, and are thus somewhat out of round (not by much but still a nature of the process). With a near 100% contact the runout actually helps to hold the threads in place. Loctite also sells a "wicking thread locker", and it is on the level of red. It's kind of thin and will seep into the threads. I've seen it, but never used it so can't say how good it is.

Virtually all screws of quality are shipped with a wax like preservative, or are coated with oil. Oil is not so bad, but the wax needs to be removed. I like generic mineral spirits for this. If the bolts are not to be Loctited I will coat them with oil or Never Seize with Nickel (forget Loctite Anti Seize ever existed). Nothing is better than Never Seize. Still you can't use Loctite with it. Most people use way too much thread locker. All you need for a quarter inch bolt is two drops 180 degrees apart. I like to wipe the bolt thread with a paper towel to sort of smear a light coat of thread locker.
gary