Remove red loctite?

[bigngreen]

I've ran into this enough I just put it in a lathe, part it off and recrown it, faster and less issues.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

Typically not necessary, but it does depend on your use case. In my experience, Red Loc-Tite doesn't hold as well as people seem to think it does, or need as high temps to break loose as people think.

I use red LocTite on suppressor adapters, and just shooting a bit has heated the LocTite enough to soften the LocTite, and when I removed the suppressor, the suppressor body came off the adapter, leaving the adapter on the barrel.

Also, if said brake is also a mount for a suppressor, after some shooting, carbon buildup can start to weld the can to the brake, causing the brake to want to come off with the can when you remove it.

This is the reason many brakes intended for this use come with a small tube of Rocksett (which is water-soluble) or LocTite.

I kinda figured it was the one when the manufacturer sent it with the brake.
My thanks to Pierce for a fine product.
The directions said hot enough water would turn it loose. Doesn't sound too difficult.

 

[Coldfinger]

To keep my muzzle brake on my Tikka roughtech from coming off I used red loctite. I realized that the muzzle brake is offensive to nearby shooters and want to remove it. I don't need it anyhow the 6.5 Creed is easy with recoil.

BUT The only way I see is to heat the muzzle up to about 550F. Is that going to damage my muzzle?

Your heating the brake not your muzzle.

 

[436]

To keep my muzzle brake on my Tikka roughtech from coming off I used red loctite. I realized that the muzzle brake is offensive to nearby shooters and want to remove it. I don't need it anyhow the 6.5 Creed is easy with recoil.

BUT The only way I see is to heat the muzzle up to about 550F. Is that going to damage my muzzle?

Looky here... You might look into Thermal paste as I mentioned... which is made for welding and used it all the time. I used it to attach the tactical bold handles to bolts for shooters, I welded (Tig) the hand to the bolt, I thermal pasted the bolt(s), and it handled any heat non-transfer just fine... I've never had a problem holding the heat off the bold body, and the same with brake and flash hiders, just put heat/thermal paste around the barrel at the junction of the barrel and brake, don't go crazy with the heat, but... you should be able to use enough heat to easily melt the red loc. Paste the barrel from the muzzle brake/barrel junction back "3 to 4" inches around the whole surface of the barrel. Good luck Cheers

 

[Rocketeer77]

To keep my muzzle brake on my Tikka roughtech from coming off I used red loctite. I realized that the muzzle brake is offensive to nearby shooters and want to remove it. I don't need it anyhow the 6.5 Creed is easy with recoil.

BUT The only way I see is to heat the muzzle up to about 550F. Is that going to damage my muzzle?

Loctite goes soft at 300F but that's the normal grade literally done it hundreds of times! Unless they've used the genuine high temperature version, then good luck. Use the holes/slots in the muzzle brake to unscrew it, ensure you go through both sides assuming you're keeping it? If you're throwing it then the pipe wrench is fine
Put a wet cloth around the barrel stop about an inch from the brake. Put some undoing pressure onto the brake BEFORE applying heat, use hot and fast application of heat while trying to unscrew it. Barrel must be firmly clamped once it starts turning remove heat source.

 

[Eric Musgrove]

I just removed my suppressor taper mount break 2 days ago. It didnt take much heat at all. Soaked it in acetone to clean up the internal threads and a soft brush on the muzzle threads, so it could be re-timed using shims and then torqued to manufacture spec. (35FT#) also used blue Loctite so there is no risk of the can unscrewing it.

 

[ntsqd]

I've had far, far more trouble removing something threaded when there's rust in the threads than when there's red Lock-tite in the threads.

For something like a brake I'd be heading to the drawer with the strap wrenches to select which one might work the best.

I also think that people over-state the severity of red Lock-tite. I've never had to get it terribly hot to get it to come loose. Hotter than I want to touch bare-handed, but not by a lot.

Once it moves, reverse direction and slightly tighten it. Then loosen it further than you went the first time. Walk it back and forth a couple of times. You can feel when you no longer need to do this.