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Why I Crimp

shawn mcjunkin said:
So still new and just figuring reloading out. So reading always to crimp only on auto feed and lever action so I didn't continue to question it since I'm loading for a bolt. I am Using the redding master hunter and type. S FL dies. If I were to try, do these would I have the ability to crimp as well ? Or will it require another die and another process? I am going to be using monos as well. Please explain
Thanks
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Shawn: If by type. S FL dies you mean Redding Standard Dies, the Redding standard seating die should have a roll crimp. But that is not the type of crimp ButterBean means . He is using a Lee Factory Crimp Die. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is a type of taper crimp. Probably one of the easiest to use out of the box. Doesn't require a cannelure on the bullet. Also, there is a company that makes an attachment for a press that allows a torque wrench to be attached. That is for the purpose of varying the crimping pressure into inch foot pounds when applied. That is to make the taper crimp with the Lee die even more consistent.
 
jdyoung said:
Shawn: If by type. S FL dies you mean Redding Standard Dies, the Redding standard seating die should have a roll crimp. But that is not the type of crimp ButterBean means . He is using a Lee Factory Crimp Die. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is a type of taper crimp. Probably one of the easiest to use out of the box. Doesn't require a cannelure on the bullet. Also, there is a company that makes an attachment for a press that allows a torque wrench to be attached. That is for the purpose of varying the crimping pressure into inch foot pounds when applied. That is to make the taper crimp with the Lee die even more consistent.
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That's why I am and have been such a fan of the Lee FCD its "Tune-able"
 
jdyoung said:
Shawn: If by type. S FL dies you mean Redding Standard Dies, the Redding standard seating die should have a roll crimp. But that is not the type of crimp ButterBean means . He is using a Lee Factory Crimp Die. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is a type of taper crimp. Probably one of the easiest to use out of the box. Doesn't require a cannelure on the bullet. Also, there is a company that makes an attachment for a press that allows a torque wrench to be attached. That is for the purpose of varying the crimping pressure into inch foot pounds when applied. That is to make the taper crimp with the Lee die even more consistent.
Click to expand...
Thanks. With the description the of the competition seating die In the master hunter set it didn't sound like it could provide a crimp. Thanks for clarifying
 
In over 30 years of reloading I have never crimped my rifle bullets, except the the 5.56 in my AR. None of of the rounds that I have reloaded have ever had a bullet move in the case. I have always crimped pistol loads. Now you all have me thinking I should try the LEE factory crimp die to try to get a more even release.
 
Ol' Red said:
In over 30 years of reloading I have never crimped my rifle bullets, except the the 5.56 in my AR. None of of the rounds that I have reloaded have ever had a bullet move in the case. I have always crimped pistol loads. Now you all have me thinking I should try the LEE factory crimp die to try to get a more even release.
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You'll be surprised with the results
 
I crimp everything except my 270 Ruger No 1. I like the Lee crimp dies too.

I cann that a dropped rifle could move non crimped rounds in the magazine.
 
Heck, the only rifle rounds I crimp at all are for my 375h&h and my 405wcf. I don't even crimp my 75gr match ammo for my 5.56 ar.. I've shot most of the mag and checked and have zero walk so it doesn't matter much on that combo. I do crimp revolver ammo, but that's pretty much a no-brainer as you'll probably get bullet creep otherwise with the heavy recoil.
I've worked with crimps on my 338win and 35 whelen and it's made little to no difference.
I guess crimping can't really hurt as long as you have decent accuracy but IMO it's another chance for accumulation of inconsistency if you don't trim every time a case is shot.
 
Ol' Red said:
Are you guys crimping on bullets with no cannelure?
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All of my manuals say to never do that with an uncannelured rifle bullet, due to damage to the cladding. Some handgun cartridges can have a crimp with these bullets to assure better ignition.

The slippage of the OP with the tension being measured seems somewhat rare with a low mass 270
bullet, but possible. I crimp for a few magnum calibers and have seen my 7mm wsm with low enough neck tension to crimp when I use bullets with a cannelure. The idea of any slippage is what warrants your need to crimp, which is good in my book.
 
Cannelures often come up in crimping threads. I'd be curious to know the process that bullet manufacturers use to produce this feature. When I use my Corbin press to make jacketed bullets with cannelures my tool rolls them in under pressure. The depth is controlled by the amount of pressure applied. I've always wondered how this "upsets" a jacket less than a crimp. As for Taper vs FCD there is a significant difference as I understand it. I do have both for completely different applications.
 
RockyMtnMT said:
We have not seen a down side to crimping either. Our bullets like extra neck tension due to the lack of baring surface anyway. The Lee die is a much better system than the taper crimp in standard seating dies. The taper crimp works too, just have to make sure all the brass is exactly the same length so the crimp is consistent.
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It makes perfect sense that the reduced bearing surface would require more neck tension, since this tension is against a significantly smaller area of bullet bearing surface. If I don't crimp with Hammer bullets, how much neck tension do you recommend ? I'd rather start without a crimp, see what kind of results I get before introducing another variable into the equation.
 
nicholasjohn said:
It makes perfect sense that the reduced bearing surface would require more neck tension, since this tension is against a significantly smaller area of bullet bearing surface. If I don't crimp with Hammer bullets, how much neck tension do you recommend ? I'd rather start without a crimp, see what kind of results I get before introducing another variable into the equation.
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3-4 thou. If we are not running a bushing die we often wind up sizing the neck without an expander ball. Needing to do this varies from die to die. Make sure you have a nice chamfer on the case mouth.
 
RockyMtnMT said:
3-4 thou. If we are not running a bushing die we often wind up sizing the neck without an expander ball. Needing to do this varies from die to die. Make sure you have a nice chamfer on the case mouth.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I do have neck bushing dies, and had been planning to size for 2 thousandths, which seems to be the favored amount of neck tension with regular bullets. Instead, I'll find a bushing that provides 3 or 4 thousandths, and start there. I can see why chamfer would be important, since that might be a pretty tight fit. A bit of neck lube might not be a bad idea as well. Do you guys use a lubricant when seating bullets ? I have seen that mentioned in some of these threads, but didn't notice what bullets they were discussing.
 
Very interesting thread. I've been thinking of the Lee FCD for a while (from an accuracy standpoint) but never tried one other than in my Model 94---30/30. No doubt that consistent start pressure is one of the important aspect of accuracy. I have read that this is one of the reasons that the benchresters often shoot with bullets touching the lands. Will be looking forward to @Savage 12BVSS updates.
 
This is a good learning thread for me but I'm still going to ask a dumb question. So on non cannelure bullets it will make a crimp any where you set it for? On bullets with a cannelure do you have to now adjust your seating depth to use the cannelure? Meaning if you would normally use cbto for seating depth you don't ? ( hopefully that makes sense it did in my head)
 

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