Guide gun build in 375 H&H?

Yes sir, my .375 built exactly as described plus a) includes Ted Blackburn bottom metal and b) also includes a cross bolt, weighs exactly 10.2 pounds without ammo or sling. In my experience, built as described the rifle balances perfectly at the front of the bottom metal or approximately about where the recoil lug is located. I would add that mine also includes an ebony fore end, AND a front barrel band for attaching a sling.

Two items, actually three items that in my opinion contribute substantially to my .375's are 1) the standard contour (and consequently weight and balance) of the stock Winchester barrel cut from 24 to 22 inches. Yes, that costs some velocity but mine shoot the previously mentioned 300 grain bullets at about 2575 FPS with outstanding accuracy. I could very easily push this load but this velocity is where my rifle shoots best. 2) The density and weight of the laminated Obeche wood helps balance the rifle (oh, mine have a 13 and 1/2 inch LOP), and help reduce recoil because of it's weight. 3) And last but not least is the inherent design of Peerless rifle's custom stocks. Ray's stock design and build almost resemble a splintered fore end stock similar to a British double gun. Given the density of the Obeche laminate I think Ray's fore end style also contributes to the balance of the rifle.

Oh, one or two thoughts I'd like to leave you with. Jim Carmichael, whom I will add I hold in very high esteem once wrote an article about the .375 H&H, that the caliber was too big for small game, and too little for big game like buffalo. After having used the .375 on everything from Dik dik to hippo I would agree with Mr. Carmichael's assessment. Andy Runyon who held Alaska's guide license number 2, used a .416 as a backup rifle to his clients on brown bear. When asked, "why not the .375, "Andy's reply was that he needed a "stopping rifle and not a killing rifle and that in his experience the .416 created a much bigger hole of destruction." From my very limited experience this is also true. However, it is also my opinion that if you need one rifle to shoot anything and everything there is no finer rifle than a well built .375 H&H.

Last, I appreciate Sedancowboy introducing me to the fact that you are a skilled rifle smith yourself. In no way have I meant to detract from your or his skills or knowledge. I have probably shot around 2500 rounds in .375 caliber and felt like I have enough experience to have an "informed" opinion. I hope my opinions at least shed some light on what one individual prefers in the .375 caliber. I wish you luck with your build.

Pictures?
 
I had a 416 rigby that had the rib rear sight. It really makes it easy to pick up quick. I'm no a fan of barrel bands for slings. I'd strongly suggest flush cup on the side or stud that comes out parallel to the barrel from the forend. There are so many good slings for the tactical carry or quick adjustment verses the traditional leather of old. A stud under is a no no for sure but I would do the stud out straight if the client wanted that style.
Lots of great suggestions for sure. I feel your on the right track with the 375's. I'd add adjustable lop and cheek would help a guide from scope to irons and warmer weather to a whole bunch of layers in cold weather.
My grandfather use to square the recoil lug to the flat surface on all of the guns he did. He said it helped the gun recoil straighter which I never knew if he was serious or pulling my leg but I do know he did it.
 
How do you guys feel about mag box capacity, I've been researching and many if not all of the factory 375s are listed as three round magazines but I notice a LOT of the custom makers that specialize in DGR or safari type build usually have 5 round magazines or does something to boost the capacity above the three round.
Is this something that is critical or just something that makes them stand out for sales a little?
 
I know I'm gonna catch hell on this one, but my guide gun would be a 8mm mauser, 18-20" barrel , shooting 200 gr Barnes with a med burn rate powder. A good 1-4 power scope. This set up would be good and versatile on anything in north America from 0-300 yds. Just my 2 cents.
 
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