Guide gun build in 375 H&H?

I would opt for the Ruger 77 MKII stainless in 375 or 416 Ruger. Scrap the Hogue stock and go with Ruger laminate stock, or McMillian or HS Precision sythetic
 
Hi, I like hunting boar in thick woods in east Texas and wanted to build a .375 H&H with a 20" barrel. I thought I'd found a great deal on a Mauser action with a 24 inch PacNor #5 contour barrel. I bought a Bell and Carson stock and shortened the barrel myself to 20 inches. Long story and lots of $$$ cash and time later I should have bought a used stainless steel Savage 110 chambered in .458 Win Mag and just cut down the barrel. However, I understand the itch to build it yourself... ;)
 
One of my favorites that I have owned for almost 35 years. It's an Interarms Whitworth Express Rifle in 375H&H. Quick detach German scope mount/Express sights. Very fast, low felt recoil at 9 pounds. Don't under-rate a well bedded and sealed, quality walnut stock. Still has the same Leupold 4x scope. Shot everything from Impala to Cape Buffalo(at 20 Yards). This Kudu was taken at 300 yards in the early 80's. Still shoots sub MOA with 270gr SP's and 300gr Solids...same POI to 100 yards with open sights or scope. Excuse the crummy old photos.
For the serious, close encounters with teeth, claws,or horns at spitting distance I "very" much prefer +5000 FPE and the penetration of a 480 gr at 2150FPS with my 450 Nitro Express H&H Double. IMO, the difference in stopping power between the 375 and 450 with the big, dangerous guys is quite noticeable.. Bottom photo, 450 NE H&H Double... 2nd photo: lion at 21 yards.
Never hunted the big bears, but I'd expect them to be equally, or even more dangerous as an aggressive lion in close quarters because of the much greater body mass.
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A true guide gun in brown bear country vs an all around dangerous game hunting rifle are two different cats!
I spend a fair amount of time in AK back country fishing the rivers and hunting. For self defense on the rivers for bears is
 
Remington 870 pistol grip 18" barrel with 7 round in the gun. First load is 3" mag 5 shot followed by 2 rounds in OO buck then 3-4 Slugs. All 3"
For more open space a Marlin 45-70 with good loads, composite with Ceracoat
For dangerous game hunting I have a 375 Mashburn custom and it has been first class! A double rifle in 470 nitro is the only thing better!
In AK I always Carry a 460 Rowland built on an STI frame with a 14Rd mag! Very much like what I shoot in IPSC/USPSA just a hybrid of my limited and Open class guns with a lot more horse power! That serves as backup for a long gun!
I built them all except the double rifle.
 
bigngreen - a few nice things I found with the 375 H&H:

1. It didn't kick nearly as bad as I'd thought it would. More like a big push.
2. Easy accuracy, the cartridge with either factory or handloads is easy to get down to roughly MOA accuracy.
3. Puts a serious thump on critters! I've only shot a few black bears with mine, but my goodness! The reaction to that big bullet is quick and decisive. I've used only the 260 gr Nosler Accubond, which produced excellent results.

I suspect that the 375 Ruger shares some of these attributes, but haven't fired one yet. Sure is offered in an attractive package, from Ruger.

Good luck with your project, whether that turns out to be building a custom rifle, or just buying a Ruger or some other ready-made rifle.

This mule deer hunter ended up with not one, but TWO danged 375's in my safe, and I enjoy each of 'em. A Ruger Number One and a custom Winchester Model 70. Two great rifles. Someday I'll likely sell off at least one of them, but not yet.

Regards, Guy
 
bigngreen,
I've had the opportunity to set up a few rifles with my 2 sons similar to what you're describing. All of them are 375 Rugers and 1 416 Ruger. I have not set up a 375 H&H in similar fashion other than I own an unaltered factory model 70 with a 24" barrel.

The first one I set up started out as a Sako Mannlicher in a 338 Win I found at a pawn shop. When I realized the barrel had been magnaported a barrel swap was inevitable, this rifle got new 20" barrel chambered in a 375 Ruger. It's a handy good looking rifle but because of its wooden stock I gave it to my dad, it resides as his elk hunting rifle in a drier climate.

The next 375 Ruger was a purchased Howa 20" barreled action and set in a McMillan Sako Hunter contour stock. It is my son's rifle and he opted not to have backup sights, the rifle has a fixed 4x Leupold set in DD rings. Very accurate rifle and very comfortable to shoot.

The next 3 rifles, 2 375 Rugers and 1 416 Ruger all were bought used. All the Hogue stocks were replaced with Ruger "skeleton/boat paddle" stocks and the factory recoil pads replaced by Limb Saver or Decelerator pads. While not the best stocks for fending off recoil I consider these rifles utility rifles and the slender stock carries very easy in the hand. The 416 carries a 1-5x Leupold in factory rings (not my first choice but it's what I had on hand, it works so I'll use it as is till it doesn't), one 375 carries a fixed 4x Leupold in factory rings. The third 375 has been used a little more or at least differently in the fact that my son set it up to carry while guiding. It carries a 4x Leupold in Alaska Arms quick detach scope rings. He carries a New England Custom Guns peep sight for a backup should the scope or rings fail.

I can honestly say all these rifles shot well with factory loads and we've got them to shoot very well with handloads, mostly Barnes TSX and Swift A-Frames. I prefer the 300 grain and 400 grain Swift A-Frames for my 416 and 375 needs, my sons prefer the 270 grain bullets, one TSX the other A-Frames. We like these set ups a lot, they are handy and carry well with the 20" barrels and they are reliable. All five rifles have been carried in the wet thick alders of Kodiak and the Alaska peninsula, and all except for the Sako have been in on some big bear kills.
 
I've had the bug to build a big bear gun, something a guide would want to pack. The 375 H&H seems to be a favorite for game heavier than an elk, or game that puts you in a situation to defend yourself, it sounds like the 375 H&H is a round that is commonly on the shelf in Alaska or Africa and that really adds to solid practical use aspect of a build which this will be all about.
Looking for guns spec from guys who have put bullets in big bears and hunt these areas, details like sight options, stock type like walnut or synthetic, weight, barrel length, action all stuff I'm wanting to get!! If the 375 H&H isn't the sauce give another opinion but with the above criteria in mind of ammo availability local to these areas.

This is how I envision the gun, use a Montana 1999, Winchester Mod70, Weatherby MK V or a Sako action. Mid weight barrel like a #5 or #6 which is actually not that heavy with a 375 hole, 24 inches, stock something like the McMillian Winchester Express which comes in Weatherby and the others as well, stainless everything I could. I would take a Walnut stock myself but I'm looking more at what a guide would carry and I think wood in that climate would just not cut it full time. Throw out bullets as well as I'd be spec'ing the reamer.
Really want to get an action nailed down, the Montana I can order as an action, the rest I would have to get a doner rifle and tear it apart, I lean to the Montana simply because as a dealer I can get quantity if I wanted if I ever wanted to do more than a one of.
I would think a guy would want open express sights also as a back up for a low power optic but I want to know from actual guys who take big northern bears regularly, maybe I'm not even on the map but I've been itching to build something like this!
 
I've had the bug to build a big bear gun, something a guide would want to pack. The 375 H&H seems to be a favorite for game heavier than an elk, or game that puts you in a situation to defend yourself, it sounds like the 375 H&H is a round that is commonly on the shelf in Alaska or Africa and that really adds to solid practical use aspect of a build which this will be all about.
Looking for guns spec from guys who have put bullets in big bears and hunt these areas, details like sight options, stock type like walnut or synthetic, weight, barrel length, action all stuff I'm wanting to get!! If the 375 H&H isn't the sauce give another opinion but with the above criteria in mind of ammo availability local to these areas.

This is how I envision the gun, use a Montana 1999, Winchester Mod70, Weatherby MK V or a Sako action. Mid weight barrel like a #5 or #6 which is actually not that heavy with a 375 hole, 24 inches, stock something like the McMillian Winchester Express which comes in Weatherby and the others as well, stainless everything I could. I would take a Walnut stock myself but I'm looking more at what a guide would carry and I think wood in that climate would just not cut it full time. Throw out bullets as well as I'd be spec'ing the reamer.
Really want to get an action nailed down, the Montana I can order as an action, the rest I would have to get a doner rifle and tear it apart, I lean to the Montana simply because as a dealer I can get quantity if I wanted if I ever wanted to do more than a one of.
I would think a guy would want open express sights also as a back up for a low power optic but I want to know from actual guys who take big northern bears regularly, maybe I'm not even on the map but I've been itching to build something like this!
 
I have had the good fortune of owning five different .375 H&H's. Three of them I had built by two of the top custom rifle makers in the country. I loved all of them and have taken everything from brown bear on Kodiak Island to dik dik in Africa with them. To this you can add game up to and including cape buffalo, giraffe, and hippo to name but a few. My son has even taken elephant with his .375. From my experience with numerous rifles chambered in .375 I have developed some very strong opinions of how a .375 should be made, and "who," should build it.

Here are how I had my last two .375's built and in my opinion they are perfect. I will also add that the finest custom rifle maker I have used even said after building one of my .375's to my specifications that my rifle was the "sweetest shooting'" .375 that he had ever built. here are the facts:
1) build it on a Winchester model 70 barreled action in .375 H&H caliber
A) Have rifle smith "re square and true'" action and barrel
2) use the stock Winchester barrel cut to 22 inches with a benchrest crown
3) stock the rifle in an Obeche wood laminated stock
A) Obeche wood is very dense and heavier than other woods but not excessive. The
added weight helps tame recoil and the laminated stock helps stability
4) I prefer a one piece steel scope base and a NightForce 2.5x10 scope
5) I also prefer a set of NECG open sights mounted in place of the original factory Winchester sights just in case
6) I prefer a Kepplinger set trigger but will tolerate a Jewel trigger
7) Most important, without any equivocation, Ray Riganian of Peerless Rifles would build my rifle.

Not bragging but I have several custom built rifles and even a couple of Holland and Holland royal double rifles. Of all of my rifles, my Riganian Peerless rifles are my favorites and I would strongly recommend Ray to build my .375. And I would build it just as I have recommended. My Winchester custom rifles shoot 300 grain Barnes monolithic solids and 300 grain Swift A Frame bullets to the same point of impact and they're accuracy is sub 0.5 MOA.

Good Luck
 
For those who might not know bigngreen is one of the true talents in the rifle world. He can build anything that we can imagine. His skills as a rifle smith are second to none. I am quite sure he will build his own rifle and I am also sure it will be perfect because that is the only way he knows. He is looking for what works for a short handy large bore rifle that your life might depend on. If the judges in Montana keep blocking the FWP from opening hunting season on Grizzly's we are all going to need one.
 
@sedancowboy Thanks for the kind words, I enjoy looking at some of the guys mentioned, pushes a guy to get out of his little box and look at different methods and different things other smiths consider important. Caught on Peerless web page a double recoil lug set up, and I really liked how he brought the rear sight back in a rib to the front of the action, really put a nice touch on it as apposed to looking like a square block on top of a barrel!!

@Bhamab Do you have a weight on that rifle, I really appreciate as complete a build list as you gave. Helps envision how it will balance and should feel.
 
@sedancowboy Thanks for the kind words, I enjoy looking at some of the guys mentioned, pushes a guy to get out of his little box and look at different methods and different things other smiths consider important. Caught on Peerless web page a double recoil lug set up, and I really liked how he brought the rear sight back in a rib to the front of the action, really put a nice touch on it as apposed to looking like a square block on top of a barrel!!

@Bhamab Do you have a weight on that rifle, I really appreciate as complete a build list as you gave. Helps envision how it will balance and should feel.

Yes sir, my .375 built exactly as described plus a) includes Ted Blackburn bottom metal and b) also includes a cross bolt, weighs exactly 10.2 pounds without ammo or sling. In my experience, built as described the rifle balances perfectly at the front of the bottom metal or approximately about where the recoil lug is located. I would add that mine also includes an ebony fore end, AND a front barrel band for attaching a sling.

Two items, actually three items that in my opinion contribute substantially to my .375's are 1) the standard contour (and consequently weight and balance) of the stock Winchester barrel cut from 24 to 22 inches. Yes, that costs some velocity but mine shoot the previously mentioned 300 grain bullets at about 2575 FPS with outstanding accuracy. I could very easily push this load but this velocity is where my rifle shoots best. 2) The density and weight of the laminated Obeche wood helps balance the rifle (oh, mine have a 13 and 1/2 inch LOP), and help reduce recoil because of it's weight. 3) And last but not least is the inherent design of Peerless rifle's custom stocks. Ray's stock design and build almost resemble a splintered fore end stock similar to a British double gun. Given the density of the Obeche laminate I think Ray's fore end style also contributes to the balance of the rifle.

Oh, one or two thoughts I'd like to leave you with. Jim Carmichael, whom I will add I hold in very high esteem once wrote an article about the .375 H&H, that the caliber was too big for small game, and too little for big game like buffalo. After having used the .375 on everything from Dik dik to hippo I would agree with Mr. Carmichael's assessment. Andy Runyon who held Alaska's guide license number 2, used a .416 as a backup rifle to his clients on brown bear. When asked, "why not the .375, "Andy's reply was that he needed a "stopping rifle and not a killing rifle and that in his experience the .416 created a much bigger hole of destruction." From my very limited experience this is also true. However, it is also my opinion that if you need one rifle to shoot anything and everything there is no finer rifle than a well built .375 H&H.

Last, I appreciate Sedancowboy introducing me to the fact that you are a skilled rifle smith yourself. In no way have I meant to detract from your or his skills or knowledge. I have probably shot around 2500 rounds in .375 caliber and felt like I have enough experience to have an "informed" opinion. I hope my opinions at least shed some light on what one individual prefers in the .375 caliber. I wish you luck with your build.
 
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