7PRC - Peterson brass - Redding bushing?

I'm not expecting my Peterson brass to arrive until Aug so I can't answer from experience. However, the easiest way I find is by measuring the O.D. of the neck with a bullet seated. Then, I use a bushing that is 0.004-inch smaller than that measured O.D. … I use an expander mandrel before seating bullets, so going 0.004-inch smaller gives a little something in the neck for the mandrel to expand. If you're not using a mandrel before seating bullets, get a bushing that is 0.002-inch smaller than your measured neck O.D. with a bullet seated, or whatever your desired 'neck tension' is.
 
I measure the neck wall thickness of several pieces of brass to come up with an average.
Then double that measurement, add OD of bullet then subtract for the amount of neck tension you want. Example: My 6.5 Creedmoor Lapua brass has an average neck wall thickness of 0.014". Bullet diameter is 0.264". I like 0.002" of interference fit/neck tension.

0.014"
0.014"
+0.264"
———-
=0.292"
-0.002"
———-
=0.290" bushing size for non-mandrel method.

This method does require a 0-1" tube micrometer. Mine is a SHARS with readings to 0.0001"
Measuring the OD of neck with bullet seated is the easiest if you have one. If starting from scratch I find the measurement method easier vs. prepping a new piece of brass, seating a bullet, measuring, pulling the bullet, and resizing that piece of brass.
 
Just an update:

I stopped being lazy while waiting for my rifle to be completed and seated a 180 Berger bullet into a new Peterson case. The neck measured .3115". Based on that measurement, I'll probably need a .309 bushing. I checked my box of spare Ti Redding bushings and found a .307" & a .309" bushing just waiting to be put into use.

I slide the .309 bushing over the neck of a factory new piece of Peterson brass and it slide down with light resistance. It looks like the .309 should work fine.
 
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