Your most dependable thread locker

[Hugger-4641]

If you really don't want medium to large sized bolts to come loose, I'm talking m4 and up, Loctite 263 has been my choice. If used sparingly it usually doesn't require heat, but on smaller bolts it's a good idea to use a little heat to keep from stripping the heads.

For scope bases and internal screws that will be exposed to oil and solvents, 243 is my goto. No heat required, but a little contact with a solder iron doesn't hurt to make things easier.

 

[adk hunter]

I've had to google four things from this thread!
"Sentient" being the most interesting...

 

[Barrelnut]

I don't like anything like loctite or oil on scope and receiver threads, because they alter torque readings. I clean the threads threads of both screw and hole with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol to remove all grease or oil, then torgue the cleaned and dry screws. Afterwards, I seal the sides of the screw head to base or ring with fingernail polish or blue loctite. Nothing ever moves, but if it did the broken fingernail polish seal acts as a witness mark and you can visually verify that something changed.

 

[2buffalo]

Paint pen.

 

[Jon Bischof]

Another advantage of Vibra-Tite is that I no longer need heat to break ring screws free. And after switching scopes you just screw it tight without having to clean the screws. The Vibra-Tite still holds firm.

 

[Turpentine21]

I've never had to heat anything where I used blue loctite or Honda bond and torqued to manufacture specs. Usually between 18 to 25 inch pounds. I also clean all thread surfaces with denatured alcohol before applying and use threadlocker sparingly

 

[ntsqd]

Who has used dental floss? It's a thing. I've not tried it, yet.

Old School Desert Racers used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on big bolts.

If you dig into Lock-tite's Tech refs you can find info about how much it might affect the torque values. Normally dry threads have the highest torque values because they have the most friction.

 

[Hand Skills]

Blue can dry out and be a pain to remove - not the screws themselves, but the RESUDUE left behind.

No matter what a guy uses, I think CLEAN threads to start with are the key. (That means degreased!)

I've been liking purple permatex lately myself - seals threads and relatively easy to clean up.

Torque values can be a bit of a minefield when it comes to conflicting recommendations from different manufacturers recommend (scopes and scope ring caps especially). That could be a whole thread of its own!

 

[Barrelnut]

Who has used dental floss? It's a thing. I've not tried it, yet.

That's a new one. I can see some merits in that.

I'm wanting to try white plumbers tape on my next scope before putting it in the rings. Supposed to grip well and not mar the finish on the scope.

 

[Hand Skills]

I'm not sure about that white plumbers tape idea - it is made out of Teflon, it's actually used as a thread lubricant, not a sealant!

Plumbers thread sealant is available, but it comes in a can and you paint it, like a super viscose loc-tite for very coarse threads!

 

[Nevrsummr]

I expected more to be on the rokslide kool-aid "Paint Pen" catch up with the times guys

 

[dfanonymous]

You really don't want to be torquing anything with loctite on either. Even though it's not markets as a lubricant like the plumbers dope or tape is, it does lubricate, and can change your torque values.

I find this more concerning on scope rings, where it might crush the scope, but you don't want to have to drill them out of the receiver either if you don't have too. Or maybe some of you do.

 

[ntsqd]

I have no problem torquing screws with Lock-tite in the threads. You just can't use the torque values published if they are stated to be for dry threads. The torque value has to be backed-off appropriately. Which is what I was saying earlier by suggesting the Lock-tite's Tech pages be consulted.