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Yet another DIY bedding question
- Thread starter GuroChris
- Start date
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Very trueA glue-in! they're stiffer too.
A bit harder to R&R.
Elmers or Gorilla?Very true
To provide clearance, I use Pasco PVC Pipe Wrap, very sticky, stays in place, 0.009" - 0.010" thick. I use 3 layers on recoil lug sides, bottom, back ( by back I mean the side toward the muzzle). That clearance allows easy removal of barreled action by grasping the barrel in front of the forend tip. Lift up , barrel and action move in an upward arc with the rear tang being the last to come off the action inletting. Upon first upward movement, the face of the recoil lug moves away from bedding surface. That minimizes any sliding contact with the recoil lug and the bedding surface. I use Steel Bed on the inletting of the front ring and locking lug regardless of whether I pillar bed or not.And there is the debate
Screws are torqued . Slotted screws are adjusted so when torqued the slot is parallel with the rifle bore.
Hex screws are also torqued and a witness mark/line parallel to the bore is stamped on screw head and bottom metal to show when screws are at proper torque. That way , "If "in the field something happens and a disassembly is needed, the rifle can be taken out of the stock and put back without having a torque screwdriver. Just line up the screw slot or witness mark
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25WSM
Well-Known Member
I used to tape my lugs on the back and side and bottom. I only tape the bottom now. They seem to shoot just as good. On the bedding in the back of the lug I put a little groove down to the bottom. This keeps it from getting a vacuum lock when removing.
Shep
Shep
It seems that contact at the back of the lug is very important. If there is clearance between the lug and the stock at back of lug when cartridge is fired there will be very little to hold action from sliding backwards. The action screws are holding at a 90 degree from the action from recoil. The action screws need to have clearance around them so very little support. I used to leave clearance on bottom, sides and front but now I just leave clearance on the bottom. With clearance in front of lug at ignition when lug trys to recoil backwards the remaining energy applied to the lug will let action and lug spring forward because of the clearance in front of lug. It takes very little movement to start wallowing bedding even if very little. The worse it gets the worse it gets. Just a thought to ponder
25WSM
Well-Known Member
When we say back of lug were not talking about the part that is on the action side. The part of the lug that recoil hits is commonly referred to as the front. Gunsmith talk.
Shep
Shep
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
In that case many could become confused. The back of the rifle is the butt of gun and the front of the gun is the muzzle. ??? In 30 years of gunwork have never heard the action side of lug called the front. Guess always something new to learn
What 25wsm said!!!
Shoulder the rifle.....now visualize the portion of the recoil lug facing you....that is the face of the recoil lug, or the front.
Sorry that I wasn't clear on those terms. I've since made some corrections / additions.
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ntsqd
Well-Known Member
To me it is the rear, so if I said that I taped the front in the post somewhere above then to y'all it means the rear of the lug. Said differently, I tape the muzzle side of the lug and leave the action side with only mold release on it.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
After 30 yrs of smithing that's always what it's been called. I don't know why it's that way it just is. If you shoulder the rifle that part of the lug is in the back. I don't know.
Shep
Shep
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
It's new to me, but I don't doubt it or you.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
You can doubt me all you want. I doubt myself enough.
Shep
Shep
