Yet another DIY bedding question

[GuroChris]

Thanks! I was searching videos so that may have been the problem. Now for more homework on the topic,,,

 

[25WSM]

Follow his instructions and you will be golden.
Shep

 

[DJ Fergus]

I know a lot of guys on the forum like to use Devcon for bedding. My question is can anyone give me a quick comparison or Pros and cons between Devcon, Marine Tex and Acraglas Gel?

If it matters, I'm looking at bedding a Rem700 SA into a B&C medalist stock and also a Savage Mk II into a Boyds AT-One stock. Neither is particularly heavy recoiling so I don't see that the difference in tensile strength matters much but, being inexperienced at this I may be wrong.

I've used devcon titanium puddy almost exclusively. It's consistently is not too runny nor too thick. It's the easiest I have found to work with. It is pricey and it's strength is probably over kill but it's just what I got acusstomed to using and it's the easiest to work with for me.

 

[aushunter1]

I've only used Devcon but the plastic steel not the 10010 version, still did the job imo.

Also heard of a lot of people using JB weld, the Brownells steel bed & the match grade version from terminal ballistics.

Comes down to the working consistency mainly I think.

There are so many opinions out there, just pick one & try it.

I think the most widely used would have to be the Devcon 10010 so that must say something.

 

[ntsqd]

I use JB to bond in pillars before I do the rest of the bedding.

I made these two posts some time ago about the various Devcon putty options:

Those published by Devcon themselves. I compared shrinkage, compressive strength, and coefficient of thermal expansion as those were what I thought would be most relevant to this use. I really expected the steel to be better than AL in thermal expansion, and it isn't. I was also surprised by AL having a very slightly higher compressive strength. AL does give up a tiny bit to Steel on shrinkage, but for the tiny .0002in/in difference I'll take the AL's advantages in the other pertinent specs. Toss in that it's lighter than the Steel Putty and it seems like the clear winner to me.

AL Putty:
https://itwperformancepolymers.com/media/1014/aluminum-putty-f_041418.pdf

Steel Putty:
https://itwperformancepolymers.com/media/12748/plastic-steel-putty-a_062919.pdf

Ti Putty:
https://itwperformancepolymers.com/media/1066/titanium-putty_041418.pdf

These were the performance criteria that I selected as important to this application, arranged by the priority I gave each, highest to lowest. Others may choose differently or weight these differently.
When you factor in the cost of it, Ti becomes the worst choice. Can get a much better benefit/cost from either AL or Steel. If AL's shrinkage were a little less it would be the decisive winner. As it is I think it is still the best choice.

Property Aluminum Putty Steel Putty Titanium Putty

Coef. Thermal Expansion { [(in.)/(in). x °F)] x 10(-6)} 29 48 22
Compressive Strength {psi} 8,420 8260 15,200
Cured Shrinkage { in./in.} 0 .0008 0.0006 0.0010
Adhesive Tensile Shear {psi} 2,600 2800 2,000
Specific Gravity {gm/cc } 1.58 2.33 2.36
Cured Hardness {Shore Scale D (?)} 85 85 87

It's too bad the html screws with the table formatting.

 

[jdyoung]

I started with AcraGlas in the 1970s. Switched to AcraGlas Gel when it cam out, ( shelf life unmixed 15 - 20 years). No problems. I like epoxy glue with long working and curing times. Equates to more strength.
Biggest problem I've seen is the barreled action ends up not centered in the stock.
So....before you take the rifle apart, wrap a piece of tape around the barrel at the end of the stock forend tip. Then once apart, wrap tape just behind that first wrap. Start and end the wraps at the 12 o'clock position. Use as many overlapping wraps as it takes to fill in between the barrel and channel , but no more. Experiment. That will center the barreled receiver in the barrel channel, and inletting.

I glass bed in steps,
First is the receiver area with tape on barrel as above to get things centered.
Second then is the barrel after removing the centering tape and floating.

 

[archer441]

Thought I would share my last experience bedding an action:
Remington 700P .300WM with parkerized finish. Clear Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent, two coats buffed to a shine. Devcon 10110.
Thought everything went beautifully until I tried to take the action out of the stock the next day.....
It wouldn't budge!
My thought is that the parkerized finish had enough texture for the devcon to grab.
I placed an iron set on the cotton setting on the scope base for a few minutes and that provided enough heat to loosen it up enough to separate the action from the stock.
Bedding turned out great. But there was a brief panic thinking I permanently glued the action to the stock, without the trigger in!
Thought the iron trick might save someone else the panic I experienced.
Larry

 

[Tensilon]

Either Devcon 10110 or match grade bedding compound from Nathan. Only ones that I will use.... after using acraglass one time.
Tens

 

[jarnold37]

I have used many bedding compounds over the years. I now use Devcon as it is very easy to clean up before setting with wet Q tips or wet cloth. However, hardness testing with a chisel after setting, Bisonite seems to be the hardest of any other compound. Cannot chisel it. For my own rifles, I would use Bisonite. For everyone elses I would use Devcon, as much easier to clean up and leaves a neat looking job. Bisonite on the other hand is very messy to clean compound before it sets that oozes out. Water has no effect. But it seems to shrink very little and is hard enough to pour 1/2" to 3/4" pillars when pouring bedding. What ever shrinkage the poured pillars shrink it is exact same as the 3bedding. It is harder to chisel than aluminum. I know there are those that say very there is very little shrinkage but with any shrinkage at all it leaves a lot of the support only on two aluminum pillars. Bisonite is no longer available but it was my pick for years. Even months after bedding the action fit is just as tight as when first pulled from bedding. Even tried fiberglass rod pillars at one time which was not as good as the poured pillars

 

[cape cove]

No pro by any means although I've done 10-12 bedding jobs. My advice is don't skimp on the release agent. Get it everywhere and beware of mechanical locks. Measure your recoil lug to make sure it isn't wider at the bottom than at the top or thicker.

 

[gator378]

Forgive my ignorance but, doesn't the aluminum block in the stock negate the need for pillars? Especially since the recoil lug recess with be getting all the slop taken out.

I'm not opposed to the idea. I'm not sure my tiny drill press has enough travel to drill the holes needed. I'm slowly upgrading tools in the shop but the new drill press is after I get a bandsaw since I haven't got one.

But back to the original question of the thread. Is there an advantage of one bedding compound vs. another. Does one swell or attract moisture or like Ive heard about acraglas does it delaminate over time...Looking for all the angles to consider before dropping 60 bucks or more on this stuff.

I had my new Weatherby glass bedded and it has an aluminum block or chassis and is Pillar bedded also. The glass bedding did wonders for accuracy.

 

[Winefly]

I have 3 rifles all with the matchgrade compound. Nathan was very helpful and now has a full step by step video instructions. Have a look. https://www.ballisticstudies.com/sh...oducts/MatchGrade+Rifle+Bedding+Compound.html

 

[Frog4aday]

I'll second the Pro-Bed 2000 bedding compound. It was developed by a gunsmith, for gunsmiths. Price is good & it works beautifully. Great working time, dyes to color you want, and comes with micro-spheres to thicken it to your desired consistency. Great stuff & made specifically for the job @ hand.

Pro-Bed 2000 Stock Bedding Epoxy

The Ultimate Stock Bedding Epoxy for creating accurate rifles

www.probed2000.com

For release agent, the best I've used is from Brownells called "Acra-Release Aeorsol" (google it; I can't get the link to paste correctly.) It is not cheap but now that I've used it, I will never do another bedding job without it. A can will last seemingly forever and application is super easy (just spray it on.) The biggest 'fear' is doing the bedding job and being unable to get the gun apart. This spray on release agent removes that fear for me.

I use Plumbers Putty to fill voids I don't want the bedding to get into. And I use tons of blue painters tape on the stock to keep compound from getting on, & messing up, the finish.

You've watched enough videos by now. At some point, you just have to take the plunge. I started (practiced) on a Ruger 10/22 so I wasn't risking a high dollar gun on my first attempt. I learned a lot, it came out pretty good, and gave me confidence to do high power rifles from that point on.

 

[25WSM]

I hated the accrarelease. I only use the clear shoe polish. It must be wiped of clean when you use it. Action comes right out when done. And it's cheap.
Shep