What about pop bottles filled with water? Especially when using a new GARMIN my brother from another mother!!I reload for my 5.56 gas gun. It is used for prairie dogs and I like to hit them. If shooting at soup cans, use your discretion.
Sure thing brother Skip. Just don't pee in the bottles if you shooting them up closeWhat about pop bottles filled with water? Especially when using a new GARMIN my brother from another mother!!
If your running a progressive press its probably not bad but on a single stage it's not worth the time to load 223 ammo for my wife's gun she doesn't hunt so there just paper puncher loads . I usually load for my 223 hunting setup and the ar10 in 308 but there not for paper other than zero checks.
Dillon 550 and Dillon 650. Load all my 223 on progressive. Load 223 standard length (AR mag length) on Dillon 650 with TAC powder and 69 SMK clones through Dillon powder drop. Need a ball powder - TAC is great. Load 223 bolt rifle loads (AICS mag length) on Dillon 550 with TAC again with 75ELDMs, 80ELDMs, or 80SMKs. Mixed brass on the AR loads - sub MOA in "good" AR barrel at 100. 223 bolt gun loads in SB brass (got a bunch) and 1/2 MOA at 100 yards in PRS trainers.I am curious, those who use progressive press for rifles, what do you use, what kind of powder measure/drop do you use, what kind of accuracy you get in powder weight and of course rifle accuracy
Thanks! I appreciate the informationDillon 550 and Dillon 650. Load all my 223 on progressive. Load 223 standard length (AR mag length) on Dillon 650 with TAC powder and 69 SMK clones through Dillon powder drop. Need a ball powder - TAC is great. Load 223 bolt rifle loads (AICS mag length) on Dillon 550 with TAC again with 75ELDMs, 80ELDMs, or 80SMKs. Mixed brass on the AR loads - sub MOA in "good" AR barrel at 100. 223 bolt gun loads in SB brass (got a bunch) and 1/2 MOA at 100 yards in PRS trainers.
I loaded 6BR for a while on the Dillon 550 with Dillon powder drop and A2520 powder. Worked good but went back to weighing charges for the 6BR (now 6BRA) but still seat on the Dillon 550.
Single biggest thing I did to bring down my SD numbers on 308 and 30-06 Milsurp brass was annealing the brass. It seems that some of that brass is pretty "stiff" . Because you're not just neck sizing or bumping back the shoulder, but most of the time full length sizing for a gas gun you will tend to work harden the brass also. Annealing is definitely worth looking in to.... this really is a racket you know LOLGot the budget? Buy it.
Got the time for a hobby? Roll it.
There's plenty of inexpensive components and the resultant ammo is usually more accurate, comparing apples to apples anyway.
I'd suggest delving into annealing if you start rolling them if yours beats up brass. Gas system fine tuning may help here, too.
no I have never had a problem with factory ammo I was just speaking of progressive presses and single stage having a tighter quality control means less chances of an accident of a under powder or over powder load. I do buy factory ammo for the sks it's the only one I don't reload for( 7.62 x39 ).Steel cases when I can find a good deal on Russian ammo in the tin can noncorrosive. If anyone see's any let me know.Are you saying that factory ammo is or has been unsafe for you? I have read about a few occurrence's with factory ammo but I have never had or knew someone who had a problem with factory ammo.
Single biggest thing I did to bring down my SD numbers on 308 and 30-06 Milsurp brass was annealing the brass. It seems that some of that brass is pretty "stiff" . Because you're not just neck sizing or bumping back the shoulder, but most of the time full length sizing for a gas gun you will tend to work harden the brass also. Annealing is definitely worth looking in to.... this really is a racket you know LOL