• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

World’s Dirtiest Gun

I had one like that, I thought about epoxying a cleaning brush to a sawzall to run in and out of the barrel. It took a solid week to find the pitting under the carbon and copper. It did shoot great but had a rough throat!
Now that is one I have never heard of! Makes more sense than a drill.
I think a little JB bore paste in the blue can and a brush would be less aggressive than that the sawzall. I have only done that once but it brought a gun back from the grave in a short amount of passes.
 
Just the usual disclaimer that should always be added by the "just use CLR" proponents: do NOT use CLR on a BLUED gun. It will remove the bluing.

CLR is 'safe'(ish) in a stainless steel barrel. But it is an acid. How do you CLR guys then neutralize the CLR residue left behind? (Answer = baking soda)

This is why JB Non-embedding Bore Paste or Iosso Bore Cleaner are preferred by some over the CLR - safer & easier to use & clean up afterwards.

Everyone has their favorite cleaning elixirs. I just wish the CLR advocates would be more forthcoming on it's precautions (i.e., it will remove bluing & it is an acid that needs to be neutralized afterwards.)

To the OP - I'm glad you got your barrel cleaned & then replaced. It was interesting to read your 'journey' w/this particular gun & the .28 Nosler.
 
To the OP - I'm glad you got your barrel cleaned & then replaced. It was interesting to read your 'journey' w/this particular gun & the .28 Nosler.
Thanks! I'm going to try and baby this gun, so I appreciate the advice. First 3 shots down the new tube yielded a 0.325 moa group, which is significantly better than anything I've experienced with this amount of firepower. Seems like it's common to have a 308 or 6.5 that'll shoot 1/2 MOA, little harder to find a magnum caliber that'll do it. Don't want to F that up, so I'm trying to break it in right, but not eat away my bore with hours and hours of scrubbing.
 
CLR is good to use on non-stained, no-painted guns......if it gets anytime to be on ceracoat..say good-bye to the afflected area(s).....as it will suck under the ceracoat along the metal surface like a flesh-eating bacteria.....
 
CLR is good to use on non-stained, no-painted guns......if it gets anytime to be on ceracoat..say good-bye to the afflected area(s).....as it will suck under the ceracoat along the metal surface like a flesh-eating bacteria.....
Be careful. Some gun manufacturers have stayed that using clr will void the warranty. Ask your gun maker before you use clr. It's happened.
 
A buddy bought a Savage 99 at a pawn shop, and he couldn't get it to shoot. He sold it to me for $100, and it was easy to see why. The bore was by far the worst I had ever seen. Cleaned, and cleaned, put a four power Leupold on it and it is quite acceptable out to 250 yards. It is chambered for .308. It won't win any competitions, but I like having rifles I can carry around in my truck on the farm without worrying about scratching them up or them getting some dirt on them. Midway had a huge box of Lapua Scenars in 150 grain on sale, and a few pounds of Varget; I'm set for life lol.
 
Top