I went to a chassis, even if they do have a bit more mass than most stock options that were under consideration when I built my 300 Win. Used a Stevens 200 LA donor as a base.
Selling points..
I could do the work myself, no smith or special tools save for an inch pound torque wrench (which I already had) butt stock selection, went with MDT chassis, so my options were broad, skeleton, folding, retractable and from various makers, especially nice if the wife wants to use a different option.
Just about impervious to weather, if I am out where I expect to be subjected to rain, sleet, snow I will throw the torque wrench into my pack in the event that I need to tear it down in the field, to dry it off. Different temps, altitudes, humidity -30 to 100 + in the shade have had no appreciable effect on accuracy, probably had more effect on me than the rifle.
Can paint it any color combination I want and due to the aluminum/plastic/polymer nature of it, with no concern at all or special prep to protect a wood or laminate stock. Hunt somewhere the colors don't match, get the needed cans of Krylon and match.
Barrel can mount a sporter or heavy varmint and still use the barrel nut or mount a full bull without nut and still have a free floated barrel.
Pistol grip large for me or a thinner model for the wife.
Rails on the forend I can mount an PH Bipod or use the short Harris with an quick mount adapter , with an over barrel adapter I could mount a clip on NV device, allowing me to retain the dayscope and my zero.
Can mount my sling studs in the side of the forearm and butt stock, instead of having them run down the centerline , but if I wish to shoot with my sling, then a moment's adjustment and there we go ala 1907 sling positions.
If I am shooting off bags, I can use rail covers so the rails don't catch on the front rest or remove the centerline rail and have a nice flat if I choose.
Magazines:
What can I say, there are some really nice Accuracy International magazines 5 or 10 round if you prefer and several good clones to choose from, even apparently a long action polymer, which I haven't had a chance to look at yet and between the chamber reamer used and mag length 3.6+ OAL is easily doable with 220 SMK
Accuracy, as long as the barrel is a quality one and your loads are up to snuff, get the torque at the right setting and small little groups all day long are what you can expect
Downside:
Cost if you have to go out and buy Butt stock, tube, grip, rails in addition to the chassis it won't be cheap.
Weight, I have a 26 inch heavy varmint profile barrel on my chassis and with accessories, scope it's a heavy brute not counting sling or bipod night vision or aiming/ranging aids. Though it comes in handy when launching heavy bullets at high velocity. Still haven't weighed it, but will get around to it sooner or later.
Looks, if the tactical look is not your thing I suggest a more sporter looking chassis, there are a few considered.
So, yes I do see a time where there is more chassis out there than the other options and I chalk it up to progress and innovation and an evolving group of hunter/shooters some of whom their first rifle may have been the M16/M4/etc upon which they received instruction when in the service or they grow up with that type of modularism and while a wood and steel rifle has an appeal they want the efficiency of steel, aluminum and polymer, carbon fibre materials, all of which in combination can reduce some of the variables encountered in long range rifles and the shooting of said rifles.
