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Why so much dislike for Hornady brass?

Hornady must vary from one case to another. I have shot many hundreds of .204 brass, some several times, and it is still fine. Never a split. It also shoots pretty tight groups, or I wouldn't be using it. Same with 6.5 G.
 
First let me say my I would rate my skills as a reloader as intermediate. For reasons I can not explain I absolutely love the 300 WSM. Unfortunately my choices in brass are VERY limited and only Hornady and Norma/Nosler are ever available with any regularity.
As I am not a wealthy person I bought 150 pieces of the Hornady, prior to having read and was unaware all the negative reviews of it. I took at complete random 20 pieces each from each bag of fifty and measure them for weight and length and both were very consistent. And my reloads with it have given me sub 1" 300 yard 5 shot groups. Now I realize for most dedicated long range shooters who reload consistency in weight and length of new brass are no where near as important (if at all) as consistent case neck thickness, and concentricity, which at this time I do not own the gauges needed to measure either, but I do plan on buying a Sinclair concentricity gauge and a Redding case neck concentricity gauge in the very near future as an affordable alternative to one of the awesome concentricity gauges that are simply out of my price range.

So I'm guessing the disfavor I have read of Hornady brass is most likely due to one or more of the fallowing reasons: Two few reloads before case necks or primer pocket issues. Issues with case neck concentricity or uniform case neck thickness, over all brass quality doesn't justify it's rather high price. Or something I am unaware of.

I would like to here from those who have had first hand experience with Hornady new never fired reloading brass that once you tried it you won't use it again and why. I will say where as I'm sure I have read a negative review of Norma brass, I am unable at this moment to recall it.

One of my biggest gripes of late is there is almost nothing Cabela's sells anymore I need I can't get else where much cheaper, but they do carry Norma brass in 300 WSM and the wife and I buy all of our gas and groceries on Cabela's CC's so I will use my point to buy some Norma brass in 300 WSM. It will likely take me several months to build the points, but buy half way through 2019 I should have enough points to afford 200-250 pieces of Norma brass.

Thanks,
Art

Art,
I have a Hornady concentricity gauge which I do not use anymore. If you want it LMK. Tell me what price you are comfortable with, and you pay the shipping. It'll be yours.
 
Different brands of brass cases perform differently for some depending on Pressure, chamber quality, the amount of sizing, frequency of annealing, and the toughness of the brass it's self.

Brass that tends to hold it's primer pockets dimensions well may be a little harder and need a more frequent Annealing. Cases that splits the neck frequently are typically harder.

Cases that are quick to lose the primer pockets are normally considered to soft, (This is determined by the alloy of the brass). the "Softer'' cases can't handle the high pressure loads very well and be used on normal loading's for good service.

Case design and alloy has the most to do with longevity so I would recommend the premium cases (Lapua,Norma DWM) for High pressure loading. and for standard loading (50,000 to 55,000 psi almost any brand will give good service.

Everyone has there favorite brands of cases based on their uses and needs.There are a few brands of cases that I don't use because of their service life and inconsistency. once you find a case that you like for one reason or another, adapt your loading to that case for longer life. I could name My favorites, but that would start an argument and it would serve no purpose. But I like certain brands for some cartridges and others for the rest.

Just saying case life is what you make of it.

J E CUSTOM
What a treasure trove of information JE was to the reloading world. JE's style of putting forth facts gained from experience was stated in layman's terms with absolutely no arrogance. You always set up and paid attention when the professor commented on a subject. I have learned more from JE and Brain Litz then all the other known shooting world pundits combined. If only JE had written a book before his passing so we could all of had his wealth of information in one place. LRH sure is not the same any more without JE, just a lot of chatter.
 
Is it better or worse than Wnchester?
Older ww brass was actually pretty good stuff... I have some pre 2004 7mmstw brass that'll run multiple firings full throttle with a 140, turn in sub 1/2moa with no case work, and need little trimming and hold it's pockets ( I've had Bertram 7stw blow above the belt on the second firing). newer ww 300 win was decent in the pockets but length varied enough that I had to trim rather short just to get close to a uniform length.
I've been running Hornady brass in 7rem, 300win, 405, and 6.5 creed. It seems to hold a decent group and survive full pressure rather well.
A lot of the issues with earlier Hornady brass were incorrect annealing imo. A lot of the 338 guys were eating hdy 338Lapua brass 1st or second firing; it stings when you are blowing out a couple buck a hull brass out at first at bat.
The hornady brass I've seen recently would rate close to Nosler in average quality but not quite as uniform. WW brass would be possibly a bit lower quality but still plenty serviceable for field brass. I've got mostly ww, rem, and hornady with some fed (lc) brass in the AR stash. I have very little bertram, nos, or a-square brass.
 
I don't like Hornady Brass because when I measure its volume of H2O in grains for my .338 Lapua Magnum it comes out on average 107 volume or capacity. My Lapua Brass Measures 116.1 and PPU brass measures 114. It also weighs less per case than Lapua or PPU.

What this is telling me is that Hornady is cutting corners on the amount of physical brass you are getting in each case.

It also tells me if I use the loading manuals anywhere near a maximum load, I might be ok with either Lapua or PPU brass because the case has enough volume to give me decent pressures for a given charge weight. The pressures and velocities in Hornady might
blow something up because its 8-10% less volume by case than my other brass.

You'll get more velocity for a given charge weight out of Hornady brass but also more pressure, and as it likely has less brass per case
since it also weighs less than a Lapua or PPU case, it means it is less strong, has less physical wall strength, and will case head separate or fail before my Lapua or PPU brass. After I did all the weights and the volume measurements on all these different brands, the
Hornady and PPU brass went in storage bags. I use only Lapua brass now, but would consider Peterson, as well and maybe ADG and Starline based on what I see on this site, but I would need to get some and take measurements, weights, and capacities to say for sure. Hornady went to the storage bin.......It stays there until the mother of necessity knocks 3 times.
 
I don't like Hornady Brass because when I measure its volume of H2O in grains for my .338 Lapua Magnum it comes out on average 107 volume or capacity. My Lapua Brass Measures 116.1 and PPU brass measures 114. It also weighs less per case than Lapua or PPU.

What this is telling me is that Hornady is cutting corners on the amount of physical brass you are getting in each case.

It also tells me if I use the loading manuals anywhere near a maximum load, I might be ok with either Lapua or PPU brass because the case has enough volume to give me decent pressures for a given charge weight. The pressures and velocities in Hornady might
blow something up because its 8-10% less volume by case than my other brass.

You'll get more velocity for a given charge weight out of Hornady brass but also more pressure, and as it likely has less brass per case
since it also weighs less than a Lapua or PPU case, it means it is less strong, has less physical wall strength, and will case head separate or fail before my Lapua or PPU brass. After I did all the weights and the volume measurements on all these different brands, the
Hornady and PPU brass went in storage bags. I use only Lapua brass now, but would consider Peterson, as well and maybe ADG and Starline based on what I see on this site, but I would need to get some and take measurements, weights, and capacities to say for sure. Hornady went to the storage bin.......It stays there until the mother of necessity knocks 3 times.
Your post doesn't add up my friend. If your 338 has less brass in hdy than the others, than the volume should be more... The actual weight also does not directly correlate with the strength of the brass. That has more to do with the alloy and the annealing. I get that hdy did have a bad run of 338 Lapua brass early on, but from what I've heard things have changed.
 
My batch of 6.5 prc hornady brass is soft as butter, starting loads leave ejector marks. 2-3 firings with light loads. I can't wait to get some adg or lapua.
 
I've avoided Hornady brass solely because a couple guys I respect despise the stuff, one in particular has made His feeling very plain. I did play with some this summer loading some ammo for my Uncle. The 20 I used to develop a load for his 6.5 PRC did ok, primer pockets stayed tight after four firings with load just under max. As far was weight goes it wasn't very good, quite a bit of variance in the 100 pieces I loaded for him. Anymore when I'm using most brass that isn't Peterson or Lapua I find I get disappointed, you get spoiled with premium brass. I have had good experiences with other brands of brass too, still have lots of 220 swift Winchester brass that's decades old and does great.

My Uncle just completed his second slam this last week with the sheep in pic. I'll probably never get to hunt sheep but at least I loaded the ammo that took that ram, lol.
 

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