Why so much dislike for Hornady brass?

I have a drill bit ground to a flat bottom that makes them usable. However, at $48.00 per 50 I don't think that a consumer should have to rework poor manufacturing.
No a person shouldn't be. I just bought 200 7rm hornady brass, I levelled primer pockets and uniformed flash holes before even loading, compared to Norma or nosler it seemed the better option to put the grunt work in.
 
In another thread I commented on something very similar. In the 7-08 A.I. I have fire formed 2-3 boxes of each "major brand" of brass.
I don't have extended reloading experience with Hornady brass, I will say it fire forms well and is only on its second reload after fire forming. No problems so far, have wondered if it's because the A.I. chamber masks or hides the pressures. Theses loads aren't hot but are definitely warm. Rem. brass has always worked for in the past. I have a lot of experience with Lake City .308 brass and am thinking hard on necking it down and fireforming. The .308 my Ackley became got 10-12 reloads out of that brass and still looks good. Varget powder and very warm 165 gr. Loads. The cost of once fired LC brass compaired to the 3 top dog brass manufacturers has me questioning the $ they want for there brass.
 
I have Winchester 7 RM mag brass that has been neck sized since its first firing. Some of the cases have been fired more than 12 times. I have yet to lose a case for split neck, primer pocket or any other reason. I am pushing 162 grain Hornady Amax at 3100 fps so the loads are not slouches.

I tried shooting Hornady brass out of the same gun, All neck sized, loaded lighter than the Win brass. At 2950 FPS I got 3 firings before the primer pockets were too loose to use. Same is true in the 300 WM, Winchester or Rem brass lasts much better than the Hornady.

I use Hornady brass in my 375 Ruger because they are the only ones that make it. Don't like it in that either but no choice. In my 17 HH I went to re-forming 22 Hornet brass from Privi because the Hornady brass was so bad. With the Privi I can get 15 loads no problem, with the Hornady, less than 5.

If guys are having good luck with it, go ahead and keep using it but I have never had it work well for me.
 
I use Hornady brass in my 6.5 Creedmoor AR-10 after about 4-5 firings I anneal it then fire it another 4-5 times and it's retired. The case heads are beat to crap at that point maybe I could go more firings idk never tried. I use a .003 bump otherwise I've had incipient head separation which does end a range trip at least for that gun. There is better brass out there but Hornady is ok.
 
I first bought Hornady brass 10 yrs ago for 6.5x284 was not annealed so I did out 100 I have 84 in the rotation I kept hearing how Lapua was best and my brass had been loaded 4 times so time for an upgrade well to start when opened the nice box three were unusable at the start still loading Hornady the under a Magnifying glass and cracking at neck has been where they failed. On my 300 Win Mag, I've shot since 1971 have a whole list of don't use brass. I'm on a fixed income so can not wast money So went and bought 50 pieces of Hornady, annealed it, fireformed it to my chamber and stopped using Full-length sizer die and acquired a neck sizer die will see how long this will make brass last because the 300 has not like brass in the past.
 
If you already have it, the only thing you should care about is what your load is doing at distance. If you're getting 1" groups at 300 then who gives a f$&) what headstamp your brass is. As long as your ES is less than 30 and SD is less than 15 then none of the rest matters, at least from an ammunition standpoint.
 
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