Why are more expensive scopes so much brighter at high power?

Gamesniper19

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Science:

In the Rayleigh criterion equation, CD is the critical dimension, or smallest possible feature size, and λ is the wavelength of light used. (the optics ratio between CD, ocular and the amount of light transferred λ from the objective lens to it and into your eye objective lenses NA) NA is the numerical aperture of the optics, defining how much light they can collect.
Finally, k1 (or the k1 factor) is a coefficient that depends on many factors related to the chip manufacturing process. The physical limit lithography. Smaller critical dimension can be achieved by using a combination of smaller light wavelength and larger numerical aperture (NA), while pushing k1 as close as possible to the physical limit.

In English LOL. The human eye can only resolve (see with full clarity and focus) a minute of angle at 100 yards as a constant. This is a measurement of the light required through any optics for the eye to perform at optimal levels (114.3). This is why when with many scopes, as you turn up the power to max, it gets dark to your eye and sometimes loses clarity. As the power goes up, the amount of light compressed goes up and compressed light is harder for the eye to see. More compression, less clairty.

Example:
For spotting scopes you divide 114.3 (Rayleigh's constant) by objective to find the highest power that an optic is usable.
So an 80mm spotting scope's optimal magnification is 42x.
114.3/80mm = 1.43 seconds,
then 60 seconds / 1.43 = 42x

Going beyond 42x only amplifies errors, affects clarity, enhances mirage, magnifies heartbeat, wind wiggle, etc

This is part of why as you move up the ladder in more expensive, brighter, and larger scopes, they are more clear. Of course scope construction, lens material and overall coatings matter - but from just a build perspective a 1 inch tube scope with a 40mm objective will not be as bright at 16 power as a 34mm tube and 56mm objective at 16 power.

Wanna know if your scope will be affected before you buy it? Do the math.
 
Of course scope construction, lens material and overall coatings matter - but from just a build perspective a 1 inch tube scope with a 40mm objective will not be as bright at 16 power as a 34mm tube and 56mm objective at 16 power.
I will grant you that, all else constant, a scope constructed with a larger objective and/or main tube diameter will be brighter than one with smaller dimensions. That's pretty undeniable, like you said the math on light collection is pretty straightforward.

But if you want to establish a direct causation between "expensive" and "brighter", then the answer is glass quality and coatings. The construction argument is mooted by there being an ample supply of cheaper 34mm scopes with 50+mm objectives that should be brighter according to the paper math, but in reality aren't because of low quality internals. Bad glass ruins better designs pretty easily. To the point I would say lower end companies adopt larger design dimensions to be able to continue using whatever crushed Coke bottle junk they've been using instead of laying out money for better parts and QC. Which is fine, not every rifle needs a fancy scope and there are obvious markets for multiple quality and function levels.

In my rack right now, a Leupold VX-5HD with a 30mm tube and 42mm objective is brighter than an Athlon Ares BTR with 30mm tube/50mm lenses, and on par with an Athlon Ares ETR UHD with 34mm tube/ 50mm lens and their better glass. The ETR UHD is in turn absolutely crushed by Tangent Theta, and IMO that has nothing to do with the extra 6mm of objective diameter - there's a $4k increase in price that is definitely not solely spent on the better turret design.

The best part is - all of them work exactly how I need them to, each one has a place on a rifle, and I'll buy more from each company in the future.
 
I will grant you that, all else constant, a scope constructed with a larger objective and/or main tube diameter will be brighter than one with smaller dimensions. That's pretty undeniable, like you said the math on light collection is pretty straightforward.

But if you want to establish a direct causation between "expensive" and "brighter", then the answer is glass quality and coatings. The construction argument is mooted by there being an ample supply of cheaper 34mm scopes with 50+mm objectives that should be brighter according to the paper math, but in reality aren't because of low quality internals. Bad glass ruins better designs pretty easily. To the point I would say lower end companies adopt larger design dimensions to be able to continue using whatever crushed Coke bottle junk they've been using instead of laying out money for better parts and QC. Which is fine, not every rifle needs a fancy scope and there are obvious markets for multiple quality and function levels.

In my rack right now, a Leupold VX-5HD with a 30mm tube and 42mm objective is brighter than an Athlon Ares BTR with 30mm tube/50mm lenses, and on par with an Athlon Ares ETR UHD with 34mm tube/ 50mm lens and their better glass. The ETR UHD is in turn absolutely crushed by Tangent Theta, and IMO that has nothing to do with the extra 6mm of objective diameter - there's a $4k increase in price that is definitely not solely spent on the better turret design.

The best part is - all of them work exactly how I need them to, each one has a place on a rifle, and I'll buy more from each company in the future.
True, to quote myself "lens material and overall coatings matter"
Personally, I bought 9 Kahles scopes. To your point, each one goes on a rifle and stays on that rifle. Each one has the exact same reticle and exact same turret functions - look, feel and power are all exactly the same.
I do the same with triggers and actions as much as possible.

That way, not matter what I pull out of the safe, every rifle looks, feels and operates as close to exactly the same as possible.
 
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I get it, I have six of the VX-5HDs mounted on a pretty diverse group of rifles. I've found that scope is reliable, decently priced, and works good enough. Doesn't mean I won't put my Tangent on whatever the Gucci rifle of the moment is, but the stable exists for a reason. Currently is 30-06, 6.5-284, 338 Federal, 243 Win, 6.5 Creedmoor, and a 30-06 soon to be 25 Gibbs 😬 I can grab any of them and go, no questions asked. There isn't a prairie dog, racoon, coyote, or hog safe when any of them are around, but the 338 Federal does like to lob rocks a little higher than the rest. The MPBR on the 243 is unreal with a lightweight mono, basically removes ranging from the situation.

There's something to be said for them all running the same. I do it with triggers too, all single stage and it's rare a 2-stage darkens the door of my safe.
 
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