Absolutely.
I've called them a couple of times and they recommended the 8 stack. The 10 stack is less than an inch longer and 1.5 oz heavier, so I'll see how it turns out.
Which suppressor
- Thread starter Cottonfield
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I've called them a couple of times and they recommended the 8 stack. The 10 stack is less than an inch longer and 1.5 oz heavier, so I'll see how it turns out.
mcdil
Well-Known Member
Pretty cool on the AB design. I wasn't even aware of the company prior to getting my Nomad-Ti. I like the Reflex concept. Makes a lot of sense in a bolt gun, especially. Very curious on their baffle design as well. Like you're thinking, it might be a solid option for .375 in the future. Prior to noticing them, I was probably planning on the Dead Air Primal (wondering if the E-brake would function with it, even though they don't list it as such) for the larger diameters. Nice to see some other options out there.
Fin-addictions definitely has an appropriate user name. 14 suppressors would qualify as addiction in most circles. LOL
I feel a little deprived as I wait on my first can to be released.
I feel a little deprived as I wait on my first can to be released.
Drjones65
Well-Known Member
So I have a Cooper M52 Timberline bolt action 300 WM and I have a Bergara Highlander bolt action 300 WM and I have a Remington 700 Sendero bolt action 300 WM. I am looking to buy my first suppressor. I use these rifles for hunting and I spend considerable time at the range. My Cooper is rated 1/2" sub MOA (It shoots amazing!) and my Bergara and Remington are 1" sub MOA (They shoot great). I want a suppressor that is high quality, great sound suppression, lightweight, and is not going to change my POI too much. My Cooper is my main hunting rifle and will be the primary home of this new suppressor. The other two rifles are my backups but I'd like to be able to use the suppressor on those if the need arises.
Going in to the various gun shops and hearing the spiels from the sales guys leave one overwhelmed.
I had kind of settled in on a Thunder Beast Arms Ultra 9 DT GEN 2.
After reading this lengthy post, I have started reading and asking more questions and now I am throwing Dead Air Nomad-L and Surefire Socom into consideration.
Anyone got any thoughts on what my best option would be considering the rifles I have? TIA!
Going in to the various gun shops and hearing the spiels from the sales guys leave one overwhelmed.
I had kind of settled in on a Thunder Beast Arms Ultra 9 DT GEN 2.
After reading this lengthy post, I have started reading and asking more questions and now I am throwing Dead Air Nomad-L and Surefire Socom into consideration.
Anyone got any thoughts on what my best option would be considering the rifles I have? TIA!
Squatch
Well-Known Member
I also have a Cooper 52 and a Proof MTR as my primary bolt guns. I have 2 Deadair cans. Sandman Ti and a Nomad. Both of these guns still shoot sub 1/2 moa with my suppressors attached.
Fin-addictions
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2014
- Messages
- 33
All those are solid choices. You can't make a bad decision with those cans. You're at the point of just needing to commit and jump.
Also, in my experience you don't see a degradation of accuracy with a can. You will normally see some impact shift, but it's generally not awful. Heavier cans on lighter barrels do seem to shift more. I've transitioned into very lightweight cans for that reason on my hunting rifles. But that's just me.
I have this one as well and agree. My only complaint is the weight.
Just curious, have you ever tried using a sonic cleaner to de grime a sealed can?
I did with my Specwar and it removed the finish.
JiminAZ
Well-Known Member
A few thoughts:
1). Almost no one has bought one of each model under discussion and compared like we do with guns. NFA items are a PITA to acquire so we just make a choice and then tell ourselves we did the right thing. The important info in this thread has to do with what has worked and not worked for people.
2). For me, accuracy came first followed by light weight/not screwing up the balance of the gun, followed by durability. The fact that so many competitive/accuracy driven shooters use TBAC got my attention as their criteria were very close to mine.
3) User serviceable cans by their design will always be heavier than fully welded designs.
There are two ways to build a can. a) Construct a tube and slide baffles into that tube and screw on a cap (user serviceable), or b) weld the outer diameter of a stack of baffles together, machine the OD, and the baffle assembly IS the tube. You eliminate a lot of metal by losing the redundant tube and all the metal accommodating threads.
4) I went TBAC for the above reasons, let your own reasons define your choice. As the .mil guys say, the mission defines the gear.
TBAC does make a CB flash hider mount now, which is a good thing IMO as I don't much care for brakes either. Truth is though, if the gun can take a can you will always have it on there once you have the capability.
Added mounts for added guns do add up. That alone is an argument for the direct thread option.
5) Finally, if you are not an engineer, resist the urge to play one. Marketers and sales types play this card well and (as a mechanical engineer since '84) I just roll my eyes at the crap I read. They generally take some <1% chance of occurring scenario and use it against a competitor's design. In general engineering design involves all sorts of trade offs and looking at any one factor in isolation will quickly get you into the wrong place.
1). Almost no one has bought one of each model under discussion and compared like we do with guns. NFA items are a PITA to acquire so we just make a choice and then tell ourselves we did the right thing. The important info in this thread has to do with what has worked and not worked for people.
2). For me, accuracy came first followed by light weight/not screwing up the balance of the gun, followed by durability. The fact that so many competitive/accuracy driven shooters use TBAC got my attention as their criteria were very close to mine.
3) User serviceable cans by their design will always be heavier than fully welded designs.
There are two ways to build a can. a) Construct a tube and slide baffles into that tube and screw on a cap (user serviceable), or b) weld the outer diameter of a stack of baffles together, machine the OD, and the baffle assembly IS the tube. You eliminate a lot of metal by losing the redundant tube and all the metal accommodating threads.
4) I went TBAC for the above reasons, let your own reasons define your choice. As the .mil guys say, the mission defines the gear.
TBAC does make a CB flash hider mount now, which is a good thing IMO as I don't much care for brakes either. Truth is though, if the gun can take a can you will always have it on there once you have the capability.
Added mounts for added guns do add up. That alone is an argument for the direct thread option.
5) Finally, if you are not an engineer, resist the urge to play one. Marketers and sales types play this card well and (as a mechanical engineer since '84) I just roll my eyes at the crap I read. They generally take some <1% chance of occurring scenario and use it against a competitor's design. In general engineering design involves all sorts of trade offs and looking at any one factor in isolation will quickly get you into the wrong place.
Ooops!
Yes I have used my heated Sonic cleaner. Spent a half a day one time running it over and over again on the longest cycle. It was still seized up. After that I filled it with WD-40 and let it set a day and still no luck. Also that can had 4oz of carbon build up and all that ultra sonic cleaning didn't remove any of it.
Back to the factory time.
