Which Nightforce Scope Do You Want For Christmas?

I just picked up a 7x35x56 ATACR to go with the other 4 ATACR's I have in 5x25x56 and I think I would like to slowly exchange the 25x's for the 35x's. I am still on the fence with the Digilum. I like the concept, and the two different color options, but there needs to be a rheostat to still allow the lowest level to be dimmed for my preference. The parallax knob turn on and off, and the way you need to adustt the rheostat is not my choice, but I do like how you have control over the end light output. Case in point, a few weeks back I had a young lady behind my 7WSM aiming at her first bear, we had 2 minutes of legal light left to shoot, but with the Digilum in the lowest setting, it was still to bright to see the bear. With the illumination off, she could not see the reticle. Answer was for me to continue to turn it on and off, and she adjusted the rear bag until it was confirmed with the on and off that she was on target. She made a perfect shot, but it would have been easier to have the lowest setting dialed down more.
 
While I love the glass in NF optics. Their current scope configurations don't really fit with my ideas of the perfect scope for a hunting rifle. I prefer 40mm objectives. I prefer simple reticles. And weight is always a consideration for me.
I don't mind spending the $$ that NF scopes cost, but if I'm spending that amount of money it's gotta be closer to my idea of the perfect scope.
Nothing against NF at all. We're just on different pages of the catalog.
 
ATACR 5-25x56 sfp MOAR 20. Always said I'm not greedy, usually to the Lord when buying a Powerball ticket, so if it says Nightforce on the side, even a 1-8x, I'll find something to put it on. CWF
 
While I love the glass in NF optics. Their current scope configurations don't really fit with my ideas of the perfect scope for a hunting rifle. I prefer 40mm objectives. I prefer simple reticles. And weight is always a consideration for me.
I don't mind spending the $$ that NF scopes cost, but if I'm spending that amount of money it's gotta be closer to my idea of the perfect scope.
Nothing against NF at all. We're just on different pages of the catalog.

I agree. I love NF's for bench shooting, including varmints, but for true hunting I use Trijicon Accupoint, the 2.5-12x42 if weight is not too critical, the 3-9x40 if it is.
 
I just picked up a 7x35x56 ATACR to go with the other 4 ATACR's I have in 5x25x56 and I think I would like to slowly exchange the 25x's for the 35x's. I am still on the fence with the Digilum. I like the concept, and the two different color options, but there needs to be a rheostat to still allow the lowest level to be dimmed for my preference. The parallax knob turn on and off, and the way you need to adustt the rheostat is not my choice, but I do like how you have control over the end light output. Case in point, a few weeks back I had a young lady behind my 7WSM aiming at her first bear, we had 2 minutes of legal light left to shoot, but with the Digilum in the lowest setting, it was still to bright to see the bear. With the illumination off, she could not see the reticle. Answer was for me to continue to turn it on and off, and she adjusted the rear bag until it was confirmed with the on and off that she was on target. She made a perfect shot, but it would have been easier to have the lowest setting dialed down more.

My 5-25x56 ATACR's have six brightness settings, the lowest of which I can barely see even at night. I have to come back up one click most of the time to have any visible illumination at all. I certainly never have any trouble finding a setting where I can see both the target and the reticle, regardless of how low the light is.

But, if anything is likely to malfunction on a NF, it is the electronics, so maybe that particular scope was broken. What you described is certainly not applicable to any ATACR I own or have shot.
 
My 5-25x56 ATACR's have six brightness settings, the lowest of which I can barely see even at night. I have to come back up one click most of the time to have any visible illumination at all. I certainly never have any trouble finding a setting where I can see both the target and the reticle, regardless of how low the light is.

But, if anything is likely to malfunction on a NF, it is the electronics, so maybe that particular scope was broken. What you described is certainly not applicable to any ATACR I own or have shot.

I am only saying it is still too bright at the very last minute of legal light, certainly when we are looking down a cut with overhanging trees. Bear is black, reticle is black, it si dark...and reticle on lowest setting is still to bright, green or red. I like the adjustability of the NXS illumination, but like the ease of the Digilum. Nothing is wrong other than the lowest setting is still to bright in this situation as it washes out everything else. I think just having the actual center of the reticle light would be better, but on all mine, the whole reticle illuminates.
 
What model ATACR and what reticle did that happen on? On my ATACR's (MOAR-T reticles) only the center "+" lights up, and I'm not exaggerating -- even in near pitch dark, where I can barely make out the target in the scope, the lowest setting of illumination is so low I can barely even tell it is ON. I have to go to the next click up, which is still very low.

I was just wondering if there was something wrong with the electronics in your scope that keep it from going low enough. It is isn't like NF to not realize the importance of avoiding too bright a reticle at the precise time of day you most need illumination.
 
Nothing wrong, I did not get the reticle which I think is C545 that just lights the center +. Mine lights the whole thing. All 5 light the whole thing. I can mange.
 
NXS 5.5-22x50 MOAR-T

Great choice. Unlike the ATACR's, the NXS's don't tunnel, so that I get added FOV at minimum power with the NXS's (great when scanning for targets, see photo to the left). While the 5-25 ATACR is a great scope, to me it is really a 6.5-25 because of the tunneling. And the 50mm option in the 5.5-22 is greatly appreciated when you are trying knock off a little weight. The MOAR-T is fantastic.
 
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