Which Muzzle Brake

[webs]

Ok I am beginning a build.

The specs are:

7mm WSM throated for 180gr Bergers

Remington 700 Long action

Brux #5 skip fluted 28" finish

Grey Bull Precision Stock

Kwik Klip bottom metal

Cerakote Gun Metal Gray

My question is which brake to use. I would like to have the brake be removable I have it down to Center Shots 3 Port Muscle Brake or Benchmarks 3 port brake that has a cross bolt for easy removal and indexing. When I talked to the gunsmith about it he said it could be done but he would need to make a tool for the Center shot brake. Should I just make it easier on both of us and get the benchmark or the Center Shot?

 

[ken snyder]

Muzzle Master - take them off put them on all you want. They are made to remove for cleaning the Break and the Muzzle Crown.

 

[ICANHITHIMMAN]

I have Pete lincons brake it works well and I can take it off but I never have why would I?

 

[Nimrodmar10]

I have Pete lincons brake it works well and I can take it off but I never have why would I?

To attach your suppressor. Most ranges won't let you shoot a break but you can shoot a suppressor.

 

[ICANHITHIMMAN]

To attach your suppressor. Most ranges won't let you shoot a break but you can shoot a suppressor.

Oh ok I didnt think of that cause we cant have then here. Just get the slabed musscle brake and have Kevin Cram cut it and tap it for srews.

 

[webs]

I would like to keep it between the center shot muscle brake and the benchmark muscle brake with the cross bolt. I want to be able to remove it to possibly try F class or for hunting purposes.

 

[IdahoCTD]

Almost every brake is removable. They are usually threaded on.

 

[webs]

I understand that they are threaded on. But when shooting with an indexed brake you have to maintain a certain torque and its inevitable that the indexing will go bad eventually right?

 

[IdahoCTD]

You can put a soft set screw in it if the two surfaces do wear enough for it to be out of position. Then it can be positioned perfect every time and not damage the threads.

 

[webs]

Shimming I suppose would work also. I have some 20, 22, 24 and 30ga galvanized sheet steel if it does loosen. I can laser cut some washers I guess.

 

[Broz]

This is not usually an issue as a brake only need be snugged up with the threads coated with grease. Over tightening will cause a mechanical pressure point at the muzzle end and the barrel will will start coppering up there really bad. This is why I like the JP tac brakes. If installed properly the muzzle lines up with the first set of ports and they are large enough to allow cleaning of the crown with out brake removal. They really do not need removed that often and if not over torqued it should stay timed for the life of the barrel.

Jeff

 

[Varmint Hunter]

The overall best solution for a 7WSM is no brake at all. At least IMO.

 

[webs]

Oh I know a brake is unnecessary but I would like to be able to spot my own shots on the range.

 

[webs]

After talking with my gunsmith I am going with the CSR muscle brake.