KNOTFERSAIL
Well-Known Member
You definitely can start a new discussion,(you're not hijacking mine) but MB are new to me and I'm learning a lot from reading all your different responses.
No that is NOT what he or I are saying. It shoots poorly with the brake on, actually both brakes he tried, fine without it. Both he and I were pretty darn clear in what we wrote.Are you saying the MBs ruined his rifle and no longer shoot even without it? That's new to me. @skipglo, clarification, please. I do not want to hijack @KNOTFERSAIL's thread; a separate thread might be better served for an open discussion and add to the knowledge base esp, for those new to muzzle devices.
Relax! That is why I asked for clarification because I do not want to assume anything or my intention to start an argument. I always do load development with my MBs on. @skipglo, "IF" those MBs are threaded 5/8-24" and the kind I need/looking for, PM me, and maybe we can make some deals.No that is NOT what he or I are saying. It shoots poorly with the brake on, fine without it. Both he and I were pretty darn clear in what we wrote, please try not to start on argument over stuff you imagine got said.
It's either barrel harmonics or the threads aren't true causing baffle strikes.His concern is not the POI change, which happens with most brakes or suppressors. His issue is now the gun shoots poorly. The brake causes his groups to climb and move with both brakes, so he isn't really getting a group any more.
ThisIt's either barrel harmonics or the threads aren't true causing baffle strikes.
I have seen baffle strikes cause very erratic groups but they don't usually follow a repeating pattern, though I guess this is remotely possible. They usually just tend to hit all over the place. The fact it is stringing the shots high tells me barrel harmonics is the most likely issue. With two brakes doing the same thing, like others have said, he may have to try another or completely redevelop his load with the brake in place.This
or the threads aren't true causing baffle strikes. This is the most likely scenario, a shadetree gunsmith may have threaded it or even a good smith can have a bad day. I have fixed more than a few of these.
I have tried a few different ones. Settled on the Hellfire from area 419. Doesn't meet your esthetic criteria, but it has been the best at recoil reduction that I've tried. A big bonus is the system they use for attachment has a suppressor adapter for many suppressors, so you can go that route eventually with some of the same components or switch back and forth while keeping your barrel threads protected.I'm pondering the idea of "braking" one of my rifles, and what I'm wanting is one that threads on and is similar diameter as the barrel. Other then those two "wants" what else should I look for in a quality and effective brake and who makes/sells them? Yes, I did google it first just didn't find a whole lot of info.
Weight of brake is not much a factor.
Thanks
Salmon river solutions has an itty bitty side port brake and it would probably be about perfect in this instance. I'll take effectiveness over appearance any day thoughThe muzzle diameter might (?) limit you to a radial-type muzzle brake, which I am not a fan of.
Yes, IIRC, their smallest OD is .680." Nathan at MBM has a .670."Salmon river solutions has an itty bitty side port brake and it would probably be about perfect in this instance. I'll take effectiveness over appearance any day though