3638dude, those short stubby knives will get the job done, in spades!
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Which Hunting Knife
- Thread starter dfanonymous
- Start date
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Wheatfield Gunner
New Member
Have used the razor raptor for the last 6 years after using several other blades the previous 30 years. It blade is replaceable but I have found that I could sharpen it and use the same blade.
Ckgworks
Well-Known Member
Just curious, define "inferior steel" and those that demand edge retention, how long should a knife stay sharp to fit that criteria? I seriously asking to see opinions, not start a argument.....
I have used many different knives in my life, from kitchen knives to customs, junk steel to D2. I have also used every type of sharpening types I know of and have come to my the point where different knives get sharpened with stones vs crock sticks vs others......
I have yet to see a butcher buying knives that they can brag about edge retention.....all I know use steel that is easily sharpened, and they constantly sharpen them. Not what I would want to do on a elk in the field, but these guys cut meat every day. I don't mind some of the "inferior steel" because they will easily finish boneing out an elk if you're not sawing on bone, and with a set of crock sticks I can have them back to hair splitting sharp in a few minutes.
Every steel has its pros and cons.
I have used many different knives in my life, from kitchen knives to customs, junk steel to D2. I have also used every type of sharpening types I know of and have come to my the point where different knives get sharpened with stones vs crock sticks vs others......
I have yet to see a butcher buying knives that they can brag about edge retention.....all I know use steel that is easily sharpened, and they constantly sharpen them. Not what I would want to do on a elk in the field, but these guys cut meat every day. I don't mind some of the "inferior steel" because they will easily finish boneing out an elk if you're not sawing on bone, and with a set of crock sticks I can have them back to hair splitting sharp in a few minutes.
Every steel has its pros and cons.
wonderman4
Well-Known Member
I have been PUMA guy since 1967. Can't beat the German steel.
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
Exactly. I mean, 420 is kind of junky - with 0.15% carbon, it is barely hardenable.
Steel can generally absorb up to .7% carbon in its crystal structure. Anything carbon content beyond that precipitates out of the solution and become 'carbides' during hardening (or more accurately, quenching).
440 is a different story. and there are MANY different grades of it. A/B/ and C are differentiated by varrying amounts of carbon, but Crucible's 440V, for example is also known as S60V - one of the original 'super' cutlery steels. (It preceded S30V, S90V and S110V - I am a nerd and own examples of each...)
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
The Spyderco Advocate on the left is a really nice knife. It doesn't really show in the photo, but they are SLIM and carry super flat in the pocket.
A couple of other guys have mentioned how folders can be difficult to clean...
My first hunting knife was a Gerber Sportsman. Great knife, but heavy, and difficult to clean due to the backlock.
Some folders, like the Advocate above use a different locking system. There are just two small standoffs holding the handle (scales) in place. Framelocks (as they are known) are probably the easiest to clean of any folding knife.
Not quite as easy to clean as a fixed blade, but comes with a built in sheath!
Here are a few that I have blooded;
The one on the bottom is my favorite for turning ungulates into meat. It's a Spyderco Hungarian, reground to .010" behind the edge - cuts better than some custom blades I have handled.
A couple of other guys have mentioned how folders can be difficult to clean...
My first hunting knife was a Gerber Sportsman. Great knife, but heavy, and difficult to clean due to the backlock.
Some folders, like the Advocate above use a different locking system. There are just two small standoffs holding the handle (scales) in place. Framelocks (as they are known) are probably the easiest to clean of any folding knife.
Not quite as easy to clean as a fixed blade, but comes with a built in sheath!
Here are a few that I have blooded;
The one on the bottom is my favorite for turning ungulates into meat. It's a Spyderco Hungarian, reground to .010" behind the edge - cuts better than some custom blades I have handled.
I never leave home without a $25 Morakniv. I have probably a dozen of them stashed between my packs and bags and every vehicle I own has one in the driver's door. They are cheap, sturdy, light, hold an edge and will take a good edge quite easily.
The scalpel knives are ok but I don't personally care for them. Kinda hard to pry apart anything with a havalon.
The scalpel knives are ok but I don't personally care for them. Kinda hard to pry apart anything with a havalon.
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
I agree on Havalon. I have a few. Rarely use them. I like the little one caping head area though. Still can't resist prying with it and braking blades. Where is Morakniv made ? Have never heard of.
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
I Like that knife ! Going look it up.
They are made in Sweden and have been for 100yrs. Let's just say that they don't put a lot of money in their handles but they do put a lot of money into the blade. I started using them in boy scouts as a kid for bushcraft and general camp work. They ain't pretty but are one of the best knives I've found. I had a stainless steel model laying in the floor of a boat for 3 full years 100% out in the elements and aside from the scabbard being faded by the sun the knife is like new. Search for Mora knifes on Amazon
They are made in Sweden, high carbon steel for the most part. They do make a very functional knife and they do hold an edge. But...I do not like their sheaths, and...for me the sheath is as important as the knife itself.
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
Thanks !
WYO300RUM
Well-Known Member
Thanks
