which bedding compound?

[Axl]

thanks, found the article-- devcon showed 3-5% shrinkage after 1 year, where the marine-tex showed only .1% --all in climate controlled storage

interesting part about the thermal expansion on aluminum pillars/blocks--wonder why no one sells titanium ones

If you want to bore your own, you can buy titanium 1/2" round stock for around $4.25 per inch

 

[jrock]

I use the pro-bed 2000 product and like it. The kit comes with release agent that works great. Used Kiwi shoe polish as well with good results. I do rub it in or brush it on and then buff it off and do two layers. Buffing it off does give better fit up results. JB weld works but only if its thickened with silica fume or it will run all over the place. Plus oz for oz, its more than the pro-bed. I am working my own ultralight pencil barrel and I've started with it fee floated knowing I can go back in and bed it up if need be. That's easier than the other way around.

 

[bbarker71]

question for those that bed rifles professionally:

I'm looking at pillar/full length bedding a fiberglass stock--what bedding compound would you use?

I have done a Remington polymer flexy-stock before and I used acra-glass "liquid" in the forearm (to flow into the different cavities to reduce the forearm flex) and acra-glass "putty" for the receiver (as i figured the putty would "drip" less) , but it seemed like the putty required a lot of tension to get it to "push/squeeze" out of the way of the action (no I did not use an over abundance of it)

I know that different people prefer different bedding compounds --which ones do the "pro's" use? Marine-tex, acra-glass, devcon, steel bed, any others? any why do you prefer that bedding compound?

is there a better one for fiberglass stocks vs wood?


what about release agent? kiwi shoe polish, Johnson's paste wax? something else? --the blue liquid release agent that came with the acra-glass kit was a PITA to remove so I'm looking for better options this time.


last question --this will probably stir the pot a little--- on a lightweight pencil barrel do you free float or full length bed, and why? I have recently seen several "custom" light weight rifles with pencil profile barrels and they seem to be full length bedding the barrel----if you do this, do you do the barrel at the same time as the action, or in a separate procedure after the action is bed?

Thanks ahead of time for all the knowledge

I've always used marine tex and any car paste wax works great

 

[ntsqd]

I've used carnuba wax for a release agent with both Devcon Aluminum putty and some brown stuff that the LGS had when I bedded my first ever. The carnuba wax was what I had, so I used it and it worked well, but I have to think that there are better options.

I don't understand the Devcon steel choice. There isn't enough metal in the epoxy to impart an identical thermal expansion rate. I'll take the aluminum any day and if I ever have it to spare I'll try the $$$ titanium filled.

Supposedly the Marine-Tex can be dyed using polyester fiberglass resin dyes. Haven't tried that yet.

I used J-B Weld for the aluminum pillars in my first pillar bedding. Worked well, but I can't see using it for the whole job.

 

[Eccentric]

For bedding I use Brownells Acraglass Gel and Marine Tex (whichever I have on hand). Both work well. I order small quantities, as the stuff can sit around for a long time between bedding jobs and I like my epoxies to be fresh as they seem to be more consistent. Although both are available locally (Acraglass Gell 'kits' at Sportsmans, and Marine Tex at hardware and boat supply stores), they often collect dust sitting on shelves for a LONG time.

I've used regular JB Weld (not 'quickweld') for bedding pillars and other small jobs. Works great for that. I've done a whole action/pillar bedding job with JB Weld before, but it's really a bit too thin/runny for the job.

I use clear Kiwi shoe polish for a release agent. Sometimes I also use Hornady One-Shot case lube, depending on the project. Knock-on-wood...............I haven't had anything 'lock up' yet. Not a pro. Just a homegamer. I cut my own pillars from various length aluminum spacers bought through Amazon.

 

[J E Custom]

Here is an earlier post that should explain what and why i chose these compounds for bedding. Rather than re type the entire post (Not my strong point) I just included it.

It is post # 9
https://www.longrangehunting.com/se...bedding+compounds&o=relevance&c[user][0]=2736

J E CUSTOM

 

[serpnt]

Another vote for Pro-bed 2000. I worked for Charley years ago and this is not only the best bedding compound (designed for bedding rifles and not some glue that happens to work), but is also easy on us epoxy sensitive individuals. It doesn't fume and burn your nose hairs the way Marine-Tex does! Get his kit with adjustable pillars you won't use anything else after. https://scorehi.com/our-products/

 

[crkckr]

I like the Acraglas products and have had excellent results with it. The blue release agent is easily removed with alcohol or a fingernail. I've heard a lot of good stuff about others, such as Marine-tex, but have no personal experience with them.
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[elf]

I use Devcon with the Accurglass release agent. Follow instructions, both work well.

 

[johnnyk]

I've done two bedding jobs using the Miles Gilbert series BedRock Glass Bedding Kit. My first was a HS Precision stock and the second was a laminated stock with pillars. Both turn out extremely nice and I was well pleased.

 

[SPAD-XIII]

Local to me here in Albuquerque NM a guy name Charlie that is owner of Score-High makes stuff called Pro-Bed 2000 and it is some of the easiest stuff I have used yet and is a very strong two part epoxy deal. Might be worth a shot. This is all he uses to bed the rifles he builds for customers and went commercial with the stuff few years back and several big box companies now sale his product.

Yes, Charlie Robertson's Score-High bedding product is great and easy to work, proven by many years and many, many, many superbly accurate LR rifles.

Score-High and Charlie are the go-to place for custom builds. Can't recommend enough.

 

[Remmy700]

That he is brother, I have had a few of his builds and they all have been flawless in looks and performance. And even better he is in town!

 

[SMK1000plus]

...last question --this will probably stir the pot a little--- on a lightweight pencil barrel do you free float or full length bed, and why? I have recently seen several "custom" light weight rifles with pencil profile barrels and they seem to be full length bedding the barrel----if you do this, do you do the barrel at the same time as the action, or in a separate procedure after the action is bed?

Thanks ahead of time for all the knowledge

I have bed well over 100 rifles in the past 35 years. For my current bedding process, that I've been using for the past 14 years, I use JB Weld "Steel" slow set, to install the aluminum pillars ONLY, a day or so before proceeding with the bedding job. I use Score-High Pro-bed 2000 mixed with 25% by volume Brownells atomized stainless steel powder, for the bedding. I buy the Pro-bed straight from the Score-High site, in two 16 oz kits at a time, one brown and one black. It is relatively thick, and stays in place well, produces an excellent bedding that is rock solid, extremely hard and highly resistant to compression. It's the best bedding material mix I've ever used, and I've used; Brownell's Acraglas (both the liquid and the gel), Brownell's Steel Bed Kit, Marine-Tex and Devcon 10110. When I find something better, I'll switch to that.

The Pro-bed 2000 comes with a wax based releasing agent that speads easily by finger and works excellent. It is much like clear shoe polish but, works better. The releasing agent is a little tough to remove from the action but, coat it with mineral spirits and let it sit for 5 minutes, and it will wipe right off.

DO NOT fully bed your lite barrel! Your bullet impact point will climb as the barrel heats up, more because of the barrel taper and heat expansion lengthwise against the fixed bedding, than the barrel diameter change due to heat expansion! NEVER bed a sporter weight barrel or liter, beyond the straight portion of the barrel in front of the receiver. The only barrels I ever bed beyond the receiver are the heaviest contour, very long match barrels, and only the straight cylinder portion just in front of the receiver, for no more than 2-1/2". If you don't bed that area with extremely heavy long barrels, they will usually sag and affect accuracy.

Best of luck with your bedding job. PM me if you wish to discuss my method in detail.
Kevin

 

[jarnold37]

question for those that bed rifles professionally:

I'm looking at pillar/full length bedding a fiberglass stock--what bedding compound would you use?

I have done a Remington polymer flexy-stock before and I used acra-glass "liquid" in the forearm (to flow into the different cavities to reduce the forearm flex) and acra-glass "putty" for the receiver (as i figured the putty would "drip" less) , but it seemed like the putty required a lot of tension to get it to "push/squeeze" out of the way of the action (no I did not use an over abundance of it)

I know that different people prefer different bedding compounds --which ones do the "pro's" use? Marine-tex, acra-glass, devcon, steel bed, any others? any why do you prefer that bedding compound?

is there a better one for fiberglass stocks vs wood?


what about release agent? kiwi shoe polish, Johnson's paste wax? something else? --the blue liquid release agent that came with the acra-glass kit was a PITA to remove so I'm looking for better options this time.


last question --this will probably stir the pot a little--- on a lightweight pencil barrel do you free float or full length bed, and why? I have recently seen several "custom" light weight rifles with pencil profile barrels and they seem to be full length bedding the barrel----if you do this, do you do the barrel at the same time as the action, or in a separate procedure after the action is bed?

Thanks ahead of time for all the knowledge

question for those that bed rifles professionally:

I'm looking at pillar/full length bedding a fiberglass stock--what bedding compound would you use?

I have done a Remington polymer flexy-stock before and I used acra-glass "liquid" in the forearm (to flow into the different cavities to reduce the forearm flex) and acra-glass "putty" for the receiver (as i figured the putty would "drip" less) , but it seemed like the putty required a lot of tension to get it to "push/squeeze" out of the way of the action (no I did not use an over abundance of it)

I know that different people prefer different bedding compounds --which ones do the "pro's" use? Marine-tex, acra-glass, devcon, steel bed, any others? any why do you prefer that bedding compound?

is there a better one for fiberglass stocks vs wood?


what about release agent? kiwi shoe polish, Johnson's paste wax? something else? --the blue liquid release agent that came with the acra-glass kit was a PITA to remove so I'm looking for better options this time.


last question --this will probably stir the pot a little--- on a lightweight pencil barrel do you free float or full length bed, and why? I have recently seen several "custom" light weight rifles with pencil profile barrels and they seem to be full length bedding the barrel----if you do this, do you do the barrel at the same time as the action, or in a separate procedure after the action is bed?

Thanks ahead of time for all the knowledge

There is no question in my mind that bisonite is the hardest most stable compound that I have used. It cant be cut with a chisel after it sets. I do not use "pillars" when using this as the bisonite is harder than aluminum pillars. Also when you pillar bed if the surrounding compound shrinks the complete barreled action is supported only on those two pillars. I pour my pillars when pouring the beding. I like Devcon as it is much easier to clean when pouring (water) and is sufficient but still no comparison. Out of all the compounds I have used none compare to Bisonite.