Where to begin for long range/precision reloading?

Run quality brass

Ok, dumb question, what constitutes quality brass?

It seems from reading, that there is no one manufacturer that covers all the bases. Example, like Nosler may be considered the best for a few calibers, Lapua for some others, Starline, Bertram, Peters, Winchester and on down the line.

With that said, ignoring the headstamp, what should a newb look for in brass to make that solid foundation for a premium load.

Again, I appreciate your insight and advice and I look forward to hearing more and from others.

Thanks Darryle
 
For the most part all brass will work with sorting and turning. Lapua is probably the gold standard. Problem with cheaper brass is they don't last as many shots. So you do all the work to make them good and then they go bad in the primer pockets. Good brass will last much longer and needs less work to get perfect. The good brass is worth the extra money in the long run. ADG, Alpha and peterson are good brass I have used. RWS makes good brass if you can get it in your cartridge. But like I said to begin with all brass for the most part can be made to be accurate. I stick with Lapua when I can.
Shep
 
Well I will put my 2 cents on here .
Lots of great info above my post ! Some Amazing guys on the Forum to learn from .

Ok back to the topic, i didnt know that much going into realoding and I picked the 338 to learn on ! I had some help to get started but just kept at it .
I dont have anything fancy for equipment. I do like the Micro adj. Dies !
My best advice would be keep the same steps, consistency is the Key to a great round .
You have plenty of Caliber's to turn you into a pro !
I had a few hiccups..but who dont !

They day I put three rounds in the same hole at 100 yrds . I was almost in tears !
Then 3 shots in a 26 3/4" group at 3027 yards ..that day I was more than Choked up !

Best advice get the equipment you can afford to start out . I'm still running it simple at my Bench .
I cant tell you the amount of Joy it has given me to reload my own !

Keep us posted on your progress . Please ask for help if you need it ! All the Guys here started out like the rest of us !

Rum Man
 
Ok, dumb question, what constitutes quality brass?

It seems from reading, that there is no one manufacturer that covers all the bases. Example, like Nosler may be considered the best for a few calibers, Lapua for some others, Starline, Bertram, Peters, Winchester and on down the line.

With that said, ignoring the headstamp, what should a newb look for in brass to make that solid foundation for a premium load.

Again, I appreciate your insight and advice and I look forward to hearing more and from others.

Thanks Darryle
If your dealing with WSM cases Norma at present is the best out there if you can find it.
I sure wished ADG, Peterson or somebody would make 270 and 300WSM brass theres many others wishing the same thing.
 
Most of us did start out with the basics and a reloading manual. No internet to help out. But I had a mentor show me the ropes with 6ppcs in the 80s. That helped a bunch. Learn from the guys that already do it. And don't try to reinvent the wheel just yet. Once you know what's going on you can try to make a better wheel. I'm still trying but the wheel is pretty good already. Like it's been said consistent loads shoot best once tuned. Learn to tune. You have to tune to get the good groups that are one hole. An out of tune load no matter how consistent won't shoot good. I still have my original lee aluminum press and 30-06 dies. It looks like aluminum but might just be melted down match box cars. That old 06 would shoot 1/2 if I did my part. I still remember the first reload I touched off. I turned my face away and closed my eyes. But it was ok and I was hooked. Forever.
Shep
 
If your dealing with WSM cases Norma at present is the best out there if you can find it.
I sure wished ADG, Peterson or somebody would make 270 and 300WSM brass theres many others wishing the same thing.
I consider quality brass having consistent neck thickness, and atleast close in weight sorting and be able to run loads at the higher end were they shoot good without primer pockets being junk after 2 or 3 reloads.
 
If your dealing with WSM cases Norma at present is the best out there if you can find it.
I sure wished ADG, Peterson or somebody would make 270 and 300WSM brass theres many others wishing the same thing.
I ended up buying 325 wsm Bertram brass which is not hard to find and quick neck down to 300 wsm. Wish I would have done it years ago. Very good brass thus far.
 
I ended up buying 325 wsm Bertram brass which is not hard to find and quick neck down to 300 wsm. Wish I would have done it years ago. Very good brass thus far.
Did you measure the neck variance?the 28 Nosler Bertram brass was horrible i dealt with atleast .004 variance and case to case weight was huge.
 
I was sent a 28 Nosler that wouldnt shoot consistent groups getting a flier and it was all because of the Bertram brass. I was sent 30+ cases and by the time I sorted and turned the necks consistent I endend up with 9. The gun shot consistent groups after that.
 
What literature do I need to invest in to begin reloading for long range/precision reloading?

The primary cartridges are 270, 300 & 325 WSM, 6.5 Ackley and not the so long range, 358 Winchester. Rifles, Nosler Custom Shop 270 WSM, McWhorter 6.5 Ackley, Factory Winchester 270 & 325 WSM and Custom 358 Winchesters built on 700 and 70 actions.

I have a new Co-Ax press, Redding competition bushing neck 3 die sets for the 270, 300 & 325 WSM rifles and Redding 358 Winchester deluxe 3 die set, RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 combo dispenser/scale(from shotshell reloading), Starrett digital calipers and micrometers, Wilson chamber gauges for the 325 WSM and 358 Winchester, modified cases for all calibers.

So, with that said, what prep tools, die holders, collars, and everything else I am forgetting do I need to purchase?

I appreciate any advice y'all can give me!

Thanks Darryle

****updated****
If you're just learning the basics, I would suggest you start with a smaller caliber, commonly used rifle (your .270?).
You'll save a lot on bullets and powder that way. Then, when you have the basics down, move up to your larger and more esoteric cartridges.
 
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