What Scope

……….I've shot most of the Euro Glass at different times and they consistently beat the rest for low light use which makes sense because of the weather in Northern Europe.
My Euro scopes(S&B) have made a noticeable difference with my similarly conditioned, Canadian hunting….And, dawn/dusk whitetail hunting…..My favored, and most frequent game.
 
I have been dissapointed with Vortex mid priced scopes low light abilities. Cheaper Burris are better and somewhat more expensive Leupolds are better yet. Glass quality & coatings matter. I would expect the Razor scopes to be better than lower level Vipers. If the Chinese can build a thermonuclear weapon it would sort of indicate they could build hi quality optics with 1st rate glass & coatings.
 
As per Ridgereaper's problem - my guess it was a Leupold internal spring problem, like weak or no spring force to return erector tube to zero position. I have experienced the same. I like Burris Sig rings that enable me to position 200 yard zero from 20% of bottom of elevation range; adding 25 moa or 9 mils gets on real close (+-) to 1,000 but elevation is not cranked up to near max allowing about 35% remaining elevation range with 60 MOA scope, more with 80 moa scope. Avoid extreme up (out) elevation & right (out) windage settings. If it doesn not kick too bad & it needs to be lugged around aluminum is OK for bases. Light scopes handle recoil better. Burris Sig Zee rings don't weigh very much. I am looking at Sightron scopes now in regard to the spring problem. I have sent many Leupold scopes back for warranty claims that have failed, like 3-5 foot groups at 100.

Shooting long range rodents in bad light requires good glass.
 
As per Ridgereaper's problem - my guess it was a Leupold internal spring problem, like weak or no spring force to return erector tube to zero position. I have experienced the same. I like Burris Sig rings that enable me to position 200 yard zero from 20% of bottom of elevation range; adding 25 moa or 9 mils gets on real close (+-) to 1,000 but elevation is not cranked up to near max allowing about 35% remaining elevation range with 60 MOA scope, more with 80 moa scope. Avoid extreme up (out) elevation & right (out) windage settings. If it doesn not kick too bad & it needs to be lugged around aluminum is OK for bases. Light scopes handle recoil better. Burris Sig Zee rings don't weigh very much. I am looking at Sightron scopes now in regard to the spring problem. I have sent many Leupold scopes back for warranty claims that have failed, like 3-5 foot groups at 100.

Shooting long range rodents in bad light requires good glass.
Don't play the lottery. I've owned numerous leupys. Zero issues ever. In fact nobody I know ever had an issue with them. Plenty on the forums have however. No scopes are without issues. That's a fact. Doesn't matter who the manufacturer is. The more scopes out there, the higher percentage issues/defects. The true test of a scope manufacturer is customer service and warranty. For me, that means more. I'm a huge Sightron guy but own Leupold's and others as well. Can't say I can complain about any I've ever owned.
 
I personally grew up with one of there designers trust me when i say its a problem and for years. They just 100% stand behind it. But its still a problem. There's scope will hold zero110% its the mechanism for there turrets
 
Swarovski would be my choice. I have several. They are light weight and have the best glass out there.
 
What's next - a super good warranty and periodic trips to the UPS depot to send off warranty work to Leupold or an unused warranty and no trips to the UPS depot.

I still maintain that proper scope mounting has lots to do with scope reliability. Selection of light weight scopes for hard kickers helps. I have have sent back 4 Leupold scopes for warranty work and the response has always been "replace & adjust internal parts". The last Leupold warrranty claim involved an elevation dial that completely separated from the body of the scope exposing the top of the erector tube and internal workings of the elevation dial. This occured on a .22-.250 at 20F temps. Further examination showed a hefty, strong spring to resist downward force applied by the elevation dial. Examination of the elevation dial showed a multi colored mechanism of a threaded tube containing a fine pitch threaded rod that was attached to the dial. Cranking the elevation dial up to its max position would relieve some of the force applied by the spring and the spring force be might be inadequate to maintain erector tube position, especially with a heavy kicker. Moving the elector tube side to side with the windage dial might also be compromised. Good glass would not compensate for mechanical failure.

My cheapo, crude, clunky SWFA SS (X42) scopes have always survived my shooting adventures - no exquisite optical performance but durability.

We, wifey & I, shoot about 4,000 rounds per year, 12 months, at temps near 100 F to 15 F (Montana). Lots of dial cranking and periodic warranty claims.
 
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Hugnot - I may have missed it, but what high quality glass scopes have you had the most luck with mechanically? You sound like you definitely put them through the paces.
 
My cheapo, crude, clunky SWFA SS (X42) scopes have always survived my shooting adventures - no exquisite optical performance but durability.
PERSACTLY! All SWFA scopes are built rugged enough to withstand reverse recoil from powerful airguns and heavy reciprocating bolts as on an FN FAL. Many "top end" brands will not. Interesting how when lenses inside their own cylinder are inserted in a scope tube they tend to be very durable.
 
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