What is causing my flyer.

[aushunter1]

Shoot 5 shot groups not 3!

You may have more than just 1 flyer!

I find adjusting setting can help with this but I also make sure my action is torqued to a specific to setting

 

[Blackhawk]

I am working up a load for my 300Wby using the Hornady 212 ELDX. Each group I fire has a flyer in it usually high left about an inch or so out. The other 2 shots are touching or almost touching. The powder I am using is Retumbo and is giving good velocity out of my 24 inch barrel. I think the primers in these loads are Remington's but I prefer Federal 215's. The one prblem that comes to my mind is seating depth as my Hornady die varied about .oo2 on the depth of seating. Could it be another issue I am missing like neck tension or some thing.

Neck turning , annealing and neck tension all play am important part in your load development. You do not state whether or not this is virgin , fire formed , or range brass.
This also is important as you can reduce the neck thickness to the point that when seating the bullet your neck tension can relax. For this reason I after a lot of trigger time performing load development can safely recommend that you Fl resize your brass hulls, then clean them lightly in media for about 1/2 hour. Next I dry my cases trim to length, and neck turn (new brass only) before annealing. Look at like building a house. You must have a sturdy foundation (or concentric cases)to build on. Once this has been accomplished select your powder and bullet.
Here I would go into load development mode by determining powder brand and charge.I would stay with one load say 10% below maximum. Next I would vary my bullets seating depth by loading 25 rounds of C.O.A.L. decreasing your jump factor in increments of .010" . I would continue this until I have five assembled rounds from .010" jump to .050" jump. Now color code them by size while recording everything in a log book.(record everything)
Now you get trigger time at the range! Be certain to bring your chronograph and log all your results . I print targets that you download for free off the internet three across or 3 up and three down ,and modify them by adding pertinent information. I will fire 5 rounds downrange at only one target while chronographing each shot. By moving over or up shoot and record your results on the next target Do this until you have shot five five shot groups.
Your chronographs ES as well as SD will aid you in determining your best shooting load.If you still are happy with your bullets grouping by working off the smallest shot placement you can refine your loads until you reach your tightest group.Once you have an acceptable grouping you can now refine it even further by increasing your powder charge.I will do this in increments of say .0002 - .0005 until I see the the SD has been reduced to the smallest dimension.
However I would only work with the C.O.A.L. or the powder charge weight variance by moving only one variable at a time . If you attempt to go in both directions at once you are asking for trouble.
O.B.T.W. I did mention neck turning before annealing for a specific reason which is this
If your brass necks case is not true your bullets T.I.R. will be out. This can also be caused by your brass case neck wall thickness as manufactured running higher on one side than the other causing bullet run out not to mention the neck tension issue as mentioned above. This is why I feel that in order to shoot the smallest group possible you must start with the best foundation possible. Lets not forget that in order to achieve the best accuracy possible you may need to change up some components like say bullet type/brand/ weight, powder brand, and primer brand.
Remember the more consistent your load development is the faster you will achieve your goal. I did not mention crimp tension here on purpose as the .300 Win Mag by design will punch back with authority so I will not dispute any crimp that you place or your bullet.
I'm sorry that this post is so long but I 'm very passionate about hand loading. Hope this helps.
Best Of Luck

 

[richhymas]

Shooting technique with magnums is important. The gun is recoiling when the bullet comes out. Shoulder pressure needs to be consistent. Are you putting your hand on the scope or touching the gun other than st the trigger. Is there something on your shooting bag that could be affecting recoil motion?

Next you may try wedging a match book between the fore-end of the stock and the barrel. Some guns shoot well with a floated barrel but some like max tension to dampen the barrel harmonics. Worth a try.

I agree with all above regarding seating depth, brass prep etc.

Finally, I agree with shooting 5 shot groups.

 

[Boe]

How were you able to determine its the load and not an issue with the Rifle?
What you're describing could also be caused by the Bedding, Scope mounting issues, as well as the Scope etc....


Richard Hilts
Hilts Accuracy Custom Rifles
wwwhiltscustomrifles.com

 

[BCJ]

I would recommend lapping your scope in If all the above Advice fails to eliminate the flyer. Or lapping your scope in can create stress on the scope and this will reflect down range

 

[gohring3006]

One of the most finicky rifles I've ever messed with, was SAMMI chambered 300 wby.
Adding a brake helped, it was a pencil barreled vanguard, the brake helped with recoil and it dampened the barrel whip. Throw some factory 180s thru it and see if it improves. The vanguard cane with a target and it was about a half inch. That's nowhere near what I was getting. I researched and found the factory shot Weatherby brand 180 grain. I bought some and tried it, and boom, 1/2" groups. That's when I realized that jumping the bullets didn't matter. So I did a Berger seating test and found accuracy jumping 208 Elds a long way.
I sold that rifle to my brother and didn't regret it.

 

[WildBillG]

My brass has been fired 4 times but never annealed. How would one build an annealer without buying one. How much heat do we need to anneal our case necks.
I believe the bedding and scope are fine as every thing was good until this load development project. As I have said I have only tried 5 loads all seated to the same depth. Seating depth and a change of primer are what at this time perhaps make the biggest difference.
I have owned this rifle from day one and it shoots fine. Its 2 biggest changes are the Bell & Carlson stock and the GGW muzzle brake. The gun has functioned fine with these changesas they were done before this project.

 

[aushunter1]

My brass has been fired 4 times but never annealed. How would one build an annealer without buying one. How much heat do we need to anneal our case necks.

Inconsistent neck tension can definitely have an effect on groups as it affects ES, @ 4 reloads without annealing there will be case hardening going on.

You can usually feel this when seating, some go in way to easy, some go in needing to use more downward pressure on the press.

After all reloading is about getting everything as consistent as possible & being able to repeat it!

This is my home made annealer made out of a 1st aid box, I had just finished it & was working on the timing between the 2 motors.

I use 750F tempilaq to get the initial setting right then just load the hopper.

But in saying all this it does not rule out other factors for flyer.

The muzzle break will just change POI & should not affect groups, the new stock?
As I mentioned what is the amount of torque you are using?
I believe the B&C would have a alloy bedding block, that doesn't mean the action/recoil lug is perfectly secure!
Plenty of people bed the recoil lug area on alloy bedding block stocks!!

 

[R100RS]

Hi WildBill, I just got a 300 WBY re-barreledwith brake and I am having the exact same problems you are having. 2 touching or almost touching and a flyer. I have tried 165 Nos bonded, 212 eldx's 178eldx's and 180 Nos pp partitions. I got the 180 partitions to shoot ok but only at a aol of 3.600 tried 3.55, 3.6, 3.65 3.70 etc Everything shot poorly except 3.6. As for the eldx's I was getting the 2 good and a flyer, have put the gun to the side for now but am sure that the only thing left to try is seating depth. I have tried almost everything else. Good Luck

 

[goodkid1]

In your situation, I would recommend shooting 5, or even 6 shot groups. It will allow you to better understand where things are really at. And definitely keep track of which fliers in their order in the group.

 

[RYEWSKY25284]

are you shooting from the magazine or single feed? If shooting from the mag. could be your bullet is backing out on recoil. 2nd though would be spike in bbl temp on 3rd shot.
and then again, seating depth is also worth a look.
my.02

 

[Turbo2160]

Hi WildBill, I just got a 300 WBY re-barreledwith brake and I am having the exact same problems you are having. 2 touching or almost touching and a flyer. I have tried 165 Nos bonded, 212 eldx's 178eldx's and 180 Nos pp partitions. I got the 180 partitions to shoot ok but only at a aol of 3.600 tried 3.55, 3.6, 3.65 3.70 etc Everything shot poorly except 3.6. As for the eldx's I was getting the 2 good and a flyer, have put the gun to the side for now but am sure that the only thing left to try is seating depth. I have tried almost everything else. Good Luck

How fast where u pushing them????

 

[WildBillG]

When I test hand loads I always shoot single shot. My loads are kept in the case box rim down as that is what I learned bench rest shooting. The rifle has been bedded in this stock for probably 25 years now and there is no metal block in this stock.
R100RS I would try a few more powders in your rifle. Mine has liked Imr 7828,RL19,Imr4350 and I think with a little tinkering it will like Retumbo.

 

[R100RS]

I think I will try some IMR7828 if I can find some. I also shoot single feed 3 or 4 shot groups with complete cool down between groups. Was out his morning with much the same results, nothing I would write home about.