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What is a Really Good Hunting Knife

Christmas is coming fast, and want to get some of the amazing men in my life a really good hunting knife.
Open to any recommendations, not looking for folding knives.
I love the heavily tested and true Finnish knives vrom Varusteleka, the "Terävä Jääkäripuukko" of 140mm or 110mm blades. I have quite a few other knives, including high end (e.g. the Swedish Falkniven), but I used/abused the Finish one - it is a true workhorse, definitely not expensive (around $80 with a leather or kydex sheath), and easy to maintain. I use it for hunting, bushcraft, field dressing an animal (just did 2 moose a couple weeks ago), etc. Shiping from that store in Finland is $8, and it came to me in Canada in less than 2 weeks.
 
View attachment 508442
The knives from left to right, enlisted Kukri ( not for hunting) MKC stonewall skinner, MKC knock on, MKC speedgoat, MKC stonewall ceracoat, Officers issue Kukri ( not for hunting). The Montana Knife Company knives are 52100 ball bearing steel. Very sharp and durable edges. The ceracoat makes it hard to lose, but for skinning the knock on is my favorite. The speedgoat with paradors handle wrap is very light and packable. They all come with Kydex sheaths.
G-10 scales on the 3 others, waterbuffalo horn on the Kukri's
No joke. Before I looked at your location, I thought, "Looks like AZ". Kind of anywhere in the old part of central Phoenix. Between McDowell and Northern, and 7th St to 75th Ave area.
 
Good cutting, functional, hold an edge for a long time, good grip not slippery, good sheath for carrying it.
The guys here carry a knife daily, I want to get them a good knife to carry. What works for me, likely won't be good for them, as my hands are much smaller. I admit to buying 6 knives before finding the one I like.

Sounds like you have some experience - I like thinner blades for cutting (.090-.125), but as a general use tool, thicker blades offer more strength and are better for bushcraft and general utility.

Maintenance is a big deal to me as well. For general use tools, I prefer softer and more simple steel. Softer means the edge is more likely to roll than chip when stressed, and professional butcher and kitchen knives are often in that 57-58hrc range of hardness. Many professionalas choose these types of steels for easy maintenance.

When it comes to a hunting knife, the problem is that nobody wants to pack a butchers steel out to the woods with them to keep their knife sharp.

My favorite hunting knives are all in the 62-64hrc range - these are not general utility blades, they are specialized tools. Even a relatively simple steel at 62hrc gives a lot better edge holding than she same knife at 58hrc, but hardness isn't the whole story.

Some makers like Phil Wilson (seamount knife works) really pushed the envelope with 'super steels', trying to get attain the maximum edge holding possible.

Higher alloy steels like S90V contain very high concentrations of carbon and vanadium which form very hard carbides when the blade is quenched. These carbides are so hard that the knife will skate over a regular Arkansas stone or even aluminum oxide - special abrasives are required for sharpening. Silicon Carbide (SiC) at the minimum, or diamonds are required for grinding.

Anyway, that's a basic primer on hardness and alloy. Heat treatment is really an art, and working with small batches (or even individual blades), custom makers can get better results than mass produced 'factory' blades which are done in large batches.

Here is a good (and recent) thread with lots of pictures;


I made a submission there, and further to that I'll recommend;

Phil Wilson, Ingram, Dozier, Crotts

Dunn knives makes a great working blade


Grohmann makes decent stuff - Canadian made, and the 'Canadian' pattern has a lot of history!

Cheers, and good luck in your quest @Small Lady
 
Personally, I like Buck Knives ....... made in the USA and lifetime warranty. I have numerous Buck knives, but my two favorites for hunting are the 119 Special (6" BL) and the 105 Pathfinder (5" BL). These are available in Buck's standard 420HC (SS) and higher grade steels such as S30V, S35VN, D2, etc. Actually, you can get "customs" in these two knives (blade mat'l, finish, handle material, etc), but I think the deadline for Christmas delivery of "customs" just passed. The 119 is better for gutting and the 105 is better for skinning/de-boning due to its smaller blade and lighter weight. The 117 Brahma (4.5" BL_ is another good choice for de-boning. These are great knives that won't bankrupt you (420HC grade runs ($80-$100) and provide a lifetime of enjoyment for the owner.
 
Small Lady:
IDK your budget, but take a look at Bark River Knives. They have a huge assortment and are "semi-custom".

Before my neck injury, I made custom knives and am very picky. Their knives have good blade geometry offered in some quality steels.
S30V, S35V, 90 series or D2 steels would be my recommendation.

Blessings...
Rick
 
want to get some of the amazing men in my life a really good hunting knife.

Wow! What a nice thought for the commenters who have answered your post. Yes, we are amazing men, but you are really going above and beyond wanting to buy us all knives. But thanks. We all appreciate your generosity.

My thoughts on knives. I was living overseas in 1965 and decided I wanted to make my own hunting knife. I had an article in Gun Digest explaining the hows and whys of making your own hunting knife. I was able to find a spring leaf off a Mercedes truck in the local market, softened it in the kitchen fire, and started shaping it. Over the next six months I created -- and hardened -- my own hunting knife. Fortunately, I had a friend who had access to an industrial oven with carefully controlled high temperatures, so I was able to get a very hard temper on the knife.

I ended up using it on several hunts in Tanzania, and the skinners were delighted with it. It was time consuming to sharpen, but once sharpened, it would skin an entire zebra without having to go back to the stone.

But nowadays, I think I would go with a replaceable blade knife. Several makers sell them, along with replacement blades that are very sharp. They don't have the attractiveness of single blade knives, but they sure do a nice job dressing and caping. I think they're significantly cheaper than custom-made blades, but sure do a nice job on game!

you can PM me for my address if I am one of the amazing men you want to send a knife to. I'll send you my snail mail address. <:)
 
The old superstition of giving a knife. It severs the relationship. Attach a coin to the knife to be immediately returned to you. Thus the knife was paid for and the bond is not cut.
"That's true, I never give anyone a knife, they pay me a quarter. Friendship last forever."
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^^So true or not, the price has gone up. A friend gave me a Puma when I left town decades ago, and asked for a nickle back. I did see him many years later when I moved back to the state and we kept in touch thereafter ;)

This has been an interesting thread since I was not looking for a new knife. But to provide any useful modern input I looked at many that have been suggested. Ironically a couple Puma knives appear to almost fit my personal, very picky criteria for a sheath hunting knife, though nothing in current offerings would replace my nearly antique Gerber A450 knives. The illustration below is not of my well-used knife, but of one for sale at a collector price on the net.

Knives can be very personal items, and indeed, after field dressing, skinning, boning, and butchering around a couple hundred large game animals now, I have some personal preferences. I find that a 4 to 4.5 inch blade is quite sufficient for anything up to the size of a bison, and safer than a big pig-sticker. I also like a blade with a little flex because I bone out practically everything, because I also pack it out on my back. The flex follows the bones easier and gets more meat on the first cuts. I also like a somewhat slab-sided handle, rather than round, because I like to know exactly where that edge and point are aiming relative to my other hand that may be shoulder-deep inside a chest cavity. I don't like cutting myself. That also applies to having the handle and blade along a single plane so the edge and point are not up or or down from the handle position. I only use replaceable blades in my skinning scalpels for fine work. Tried the replaceable blade knives, and don't like them myself. I also have no interest of having a super sharp blade break off in my work where I cannot see it. Maybe I am just paranoid from having scalpels do that regularly.

A general field dressing and boning blade is not the best as a skinning blade, but you can get the job done. Conversely, a big-bellied skinning blade is cumbersome for dressing, boning, and butchering, but great for skinning.

Small Lady, a number of the suggested knives top out over your stated budget, including the one Benchmade fixed blade I would have suggested - the Raghorn - but that handle might be a little round. The pricepoint cuts it out. On the other hand, you did say "not folder", but the Benchmade folder that you might consider anyway is the Griptilian drop point. Good blade shape, very useful quality knife, good warrantee. I have 2, and always have one in my pocket. It serves as a second knife when I am hunting, in case the Gerber dulls before I can sharpen it.

The Pumas I might suggest are the Catamount, which has an attractive wood handle:

And the Puma Dexter, which has a much more practical Micarta handle, this knife has a slightly thinner blade, and might flex a little:

The photo below is of a generic Gerber A450 - no longer made, and expensive on the resale market.

Gerber A450.png
 
I have used a PUMA WHITE HUNTER since 1975
Paid $32.00 brand new. back blade can chop through the pelvic bone

T.P.
 
View attachment 508442
The knives from left to right, enlisted Kukri ( not for hunting) MKC stonewall skinner, MKC knock on, MKC speedgoat, MKC stonewall ceracoat, Officers issue Kukri ( not for hunting). The Montana Knife Company knives are 52100 ball bearing steel. Very sharp and durable edges. The ceracoat makes it hard to lose, but for skinning the knock on is my favorite. The speedgoat with paradors handle wrap is very light and packable. They all come with Kydex sheaths.
G-10 scales on the 3 others, waterbuffalo horn on the Kukri's
Yeah it is and yeah it is....... 😬
 
Ok depends on what you are looking for and how much you want to spend. Is it a knife to use all the time or a more show piece. All I can say is by Usa or German or Canadian made (there are a few other places also) stay away from Chinese steel in my opinion it doesn't hold an edge nearly as good. That said rapid river knives do beautiful custom works , case ,buck puma, . Just look at some of them and pick what is cool for the gift you can also get take it and have Lazer engraving done to personalize it. That is what I do for the grandkids. Good luck
 

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